Question about Cars & Trucks
I am getting ready to change the knock sensors on my 1993 Lexus ES300. I have the sensors, gaskets, and wiring harness. It is recommended that one change the short by pass hose that must be removed to get to the sensors. Can anyone tell me the part number for the hose or can I use a section of say straight heater hose etc. as a replacement? The hose is not visible from the outside of the engine as far as I can tell. Thanks, guys
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1999 lexus es300
This has been happening to my car as well. It typically happens when your oxygen sensors start to wear out. Mine does it once in a while and I have the local auto store reset it. Go to your nearest auto store and have them tell you what code it is and ask them to reset the OBD so the light goes out. If the light comes on right away and the code has to do with your oxygen sensors, have them replaced. There are three, two are easy to replace, one takes some effort as it is in a tough to get to spot. The dealer will charge you a fortune to replace them so do it yourself or through a local mechanic. It is a very simple task other then the access.
Posted on Jul 20, 2008
SOURCE: Have a 1999 lexus es300.
If you have some common tools the knock sensors are no big deal. If you take a lexus they will make is sound like you need to completely disassemble the engine and scare you off.
First, do you really have a problem with preignition causing real knocking due to carbon buildup, or diluted gasoline or do you have failed knock sensor(s). Try to decarbon the engine first.
There is a technique used with water being sprayed into a warm engine intake. This will clean up the valves and carbon buildup which can result in engine knocking.
The job will be a couple hundred for the parts and a couple hours of your time. After you are done, you have entitled yourself to approximately $500 in new tools for your tool chest since this is what Toyota and Lexus will charge to fix (about $1k+).
You will need to buy the following to address the knock sensors and a couple other items while you're in the neighborhood.
- 1x upper intake plenum gaskets - 2x lower intake plenum gasket - coolant bypass hose found in the same area as knock sensors - 2x knock sensors (bank1 and bank2) - short pig tail cable which connects both knock sensors to common wire harness. - toyota antifreeze (2 gallons, if i remember correctly... when mixed to 50/50 (antifreeze/ water) you will have 4 gallons.
drain the radiator drain the front of the engine using the engine drain plug - this plug is on the front right side facing the engine, behind the right hand exhaust manifold. (this will lower antifreeze enough to avoid dumping antifreeze all over the engine later) remove the air filter box remove the connections into the throttle body remove the cable from the throttle control remove the upper air intake plenum remove the two lower air intake plenums remove the antifreeze fill port
Knock sensors will be in the valley between the lower intake plenums. You will need to remove the rubber antifreeze bypass hose (little short hose blocking access to the knock sensors).
By the way, the reason you bought a replacement, is that if this short hose splits from normal wear, you need to spend this money and effort to reach it, so just do it now.
The little pig tail cable which connects both knock sensors to the wire harness is said to cause a big majority of the problem due to the plastic getting hot and brittle, falling off and shorting to the engine. While in this mode the engine thinks knock is occuring and starts to retune the air fuel mixture to get rid of the knock until it goes into minimal operations mode.
After replacing the knock sensors (and tighten to torque specs), replacing pig tail cable, and reinstalling your new short by pass hose. Replace the lower gaskets, antifreeze fill port, lower intakes, upper gasket, upper intake, air intake, air filter, reattach everything, reconnect all the rubber lines you pulled off, make sure there are no splits in the air intake passage anywhere, retighten the engine antifreeze drain plug, and the drain on the bottom of your radiator, and your done!
Don't forget the easy stuff. Dilute the antifreeze with water and fill the radiator and overflow tub. Run the engine for several minutes until its hot and opens the thermistat to allow antifreeze into the empty engine cavities. Turn the engine off and get a cold one as the engine cools. Once absolutely sure engine is cold, refill the radiator with antifreeze and refill the reserve tub. Do this at until all the beer is gone and you are both full of antifreeze (in one form or another)..... obviously red stuff in the car, amber down the gut.
Posted on Mar 16, 2009
SOURCE: Radio removal 200 Lexus ES300
First you need to remove th wooden bezel surrounding the shifter. Do this by gently prying up the bottom part of the wood closest to the cup holders in the armrest using a small screwdriver. Then work out te top part gently. Rotate/angle the wood bezel to get it over the shifter. It will slide past, just work it around the button. Once this is removed then you need to remove the ashtray below the climate control. Now that the shifter bezel has been removed locate the 2 screws securing the bottom of the ashtray housing and remove them. The ashtray then will only be held in be retaining clips at the top. Once the screws are removed you'll want to have the ashtray open to get better leverage on it to pull. Gently slide the ashtray out. Be careful not to pull to hard on the actual tray of the ashtray. there is a plastic tab in the back of the ashtray that can't be seen that prevents it from coming out all the way that can easily be broken. If you do break it the ashtray is still secured to the swing mechanism by 2 screws in the bottom of the tray that will still allow it to be functional and secure, so don't worry. After the ashtray is removed the next step is to remove the small trim piece directly underneath the climate controls. On 2000 and 2001 models this will be made of wood. 97-99 models it will be black plastic. Using a small flathead screwdriver gently pry the strip of wood or plastic out. Starting in the middle of the strip is best, the retaining clips are on the right and left of the strip. It should pop out fairly easily.This will expose the screws holding in the bottom of the climate control which will need to be removed. Once the climate controls are removed the bottom radio screws should be visible. Next for the screws retaining the top of the radio you'll need to remove the clock/airvents located above the radio. Remove this with a small flathead screwdriver using the pop out method. Once removed this will expose the screws retaining the top fo the radio. Remove these screws and the screws at the bottom and the radio should slide out. Again, this will work on all models from 97-2001.
Posted on Jul 22, 2009
My Son has a 95 es300, the amp for it is located under the front passenger seat. The easiest way to access it is to remove the 4 bolts holding the seat down, and remove the seat. Takes about 5 minutes
Posted on Jul 24, 2009
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