Question about 1993 Saab 900
I am not sure what all you have tried. I would continue to bleed the brakes starting at the left front and working around the car clockwise. when you change the slave it will take many many many times of doing this to bleed all the air out.
Posted on May 25, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1993 saab 900 belt diagram
Sorry, I don't have access to a Bentley now. There are 4 belts, 2 for alternator etc, 1 for aircon and 1 for pwr steering.
The power steering belt goes round the power steering pump & crank pulley only.
The paired belts go round crank pulley, alternator and water pump.
The aircon belt goes round crank pulley, aircon compressor and tensioner.
Alternator / water pump pair are closest to the engine.
Power steering is in the middle (with aircon) or closest to the bulkhead (without aircon).
Aircon (if fitted) is closest to the bulkhead.
(1) If you do not have an AC compressor, skip this step and go to step 2. If you dohave one, begin by cutting any cable ties that hold the main wiringharness to the AC hoses. Lift the harness up and over onto the camcover until it's near the PCV valve, and is now out of your way.
All nuts & bolts in this step are 13 mm.
Then, slacken the 2 bolts attaching the AC tensioner pulley mount (athick triangular steel plate) to the head. Use a long box wrench (ringspanner, in English ).
Using a deep-wall socket (or an offset ratchet wrench, or plain wrench)on the adjuster nut, back it off until there's no more tension in thebelt (you won't be able to remove the belt yet, though).
Now, remove the upper of the 2 mounting bolts and its washer, and pivot the tensioner down; remove the belt.
Remove the lower bolt, and lift out the tensioner. Look the triangularplate over for cracks, and spin the pulley to see if its bearing issmooth and quiet. (If you find problems, the pulley is about $15 and www.eeuroparts.com sells the entiretensioner assembly for something like $70.) Back off the adjuster nutuntil it's about 1/4" (1/2 cm) from the end of its threaded rod (usevise-grips to clamp the rod's other end onto the triangular plate, orput the whole thing in a vise).
(2) Slacken the bolt and nut holding the power steering pump to thehead and to the RH engine mount, respectively. Slacken the adjuster nut(yes, anotherthreaded-rod type thing) by about 1/2" (1 cm). You can use a normalwrench for this, but it takes forever--so I made a special tool bytaking a cheapo 13 mm open-jaw wrench and bending it to a 45-degreeangle just below the jaws (cut it to length if it's too hard tomaneuver). Loosen the mounting nut until it's almost off (but not completely off,or you'll lose the bolt it screws onto--this bolt was designed to fallout when the nut is removed). Pull the nut end of the threaded rodtowards the firewall to get it of the adjuster fork. Push the pumptowards the engine centerline and pull its belt off (you may need topry with a screwdriver to get it out of the pump pulley completely).
(3) Slacken the 16 mm nut on top of the alternator. Back off the alt.adjuster's 10 mm nut about 1/2" (1 cm)--a ratcheting wrench helps here.(This is the last threaded rod--I promise.) Completely remove the 16 mmnut, and pull the adjuster towards the firewall until it's out of thealt.
Now for the clever part: Cut yourself a wedge from a piece of wood (2 x4 is perfect), with a rise of 3" (8 cm) and a run of about 12" (30 cm).Push the alt. towards the engine, and shove the wedge in between theside of the alt. and the coil-spring tower (master cylinder mountingbracket works, too). Keep pushing the alt. and driving the wedge downuntil the alt. is so close to the engine that it's compressing thelower heater hose.
Pull the outer belt off the alt. pulley. Working from the RH side ofthe car, lift the belt off the water pump pulley and then disengage itfrom the crank pulley. Now, pull the inner belt into the outergroove of the water pump pulley. Go back to the LH side of the car, andmove the inner belt into the alt. pulley's outer groove. Try removingit from this pulley; if too difficult, either wedge the alt. closer tothe engine or try pulling the belt off the water pump pulley from theRH side of the car (a helper is very useful for all this).
(4) Install the new inner belt by fitting it into its groove in thecrank pulley first. Work it into the outer grooves of the alt. andwater pump pulleys, then into the inner ones. Install the outerbelt--again, first onto the crank pulley, then the water pump and alt.pulleys.
Remove wedge. Insert tensioner into alt. making sure the threaded rodsettles into its fork, and refit its 16 mm nut--but don't fully tightenit yet. Tighten 10 mm adjuster nut until belts can be pushed in only1/2" (1 cm) by thumb pressure (applied 1/2 way between water pump andcrank pulleys).
(5) Push PS pump as close to engine centerline as possible, andfinger-tighten its mounting bolt to hold it there. Fit a new beltaround the crank pulley first, then work it into the pump pulley groovefrom the bottom of the pulley until it pops in. You may need to use both hands, and/or carefully pry the belt on with a screwdriver.
Loosen the bolt you just tightened. Pull the pump away from enginecenterline, insert threaded rod into its fork (you may have to back theadjuster nut off some more), tighten the mounting nut (but notcompletely), and screw in the adjuster nut until the belt deflects asdescribed in (4) above.
(6) Start the engine. Blip throttle, watching the belts deflect as theengine speed goes up and down. If the "blur" you see midway down eachbelt is over 1" (2 cm) wide, tighten the belt(s) until it isn't. Tighten the PS pump mounting nut and bolt, and the 16mm nut on the alt.
If your car doesn't have AC, your belt replacement is over!
(7) If you haveAC, reattach the tensioner to the head with the lower bolt only (andleave this bolt finger-tight). Fit the new belt around the crankpulley, then around the compressor pulley and, finally, around thetensioner.
Reinstall the top tensioner bolt and its washer. Be careful and patienthere--you're threading a steel bolt into aluminum, so make sure it goesin straight. You may have to back off the tensioner nut a little. Leavethis bolt finger-tight.
Screw in the adjuster nut to get the deflection as described in (4)above. Start the engine, and blip the throttle. Watch belt's "blur" on LHside of engine. Adjust as in (6). Switch on compressor, and repeat.
If satisfied, tighten the 2 tensioner bolts. Return wiring harness toits original position, and re-secure with cable ties if needed.
Posted on Dec 16, 2008
I had this same problem and I fixed it by opening up the door panel and accessing the door handle mechanism by removing the membrane that covers up the access holes. After watching the mechanism work by manually lifting and lowering the lock as well as actuating the door handle, I noticed that the door handle mechanism was causing the lock to bind as a return spring was not letting the mechanism return to neutural after the door handle was actuated. This blocked the mechanism from unlocking even with the key. Believe it or not all that was required was a little wd - 40 on the mechanism and the problem disappeared. The lock once again worked both with the key and with the remote. 15 minutes to take off the door panel 25 minutes to diagnose, 20 minutes to think about what might be causing the spring not to work correctly and less than a minute to remedy. I hope that I can save you the 45 minutes. Good Luck
Posted on Aug 02, 2009
You don't say whether your electric fans both work...
First, check fuses #25 and #6 (both 30 amp)
There is a fan thermoswitch is on the left side of the rad. Turn the ignition on, and after pulling back the boot, short across the two terminals with a screwdriver.
If the fan runs, fan and wiring are both good, but thermoswitch might be faulty.
If fan only runs when thermoswitch is shorted like this, switch needs to be replaced (I strongly recommend that you get the low temp switch to prevent overheating - your temp gauge will not go over the middle position even on the hottest days; also get a low temp thermostat,and ALWAYS get a Saab stat, not an after market one! The SAAB stats are three position, and most after market ones aren't)
if the fan doesn't run when switch is shorted, check for voltage between green wire and ground at the switch.
Voltage indicates faulty fan, if no voltage then check the fan relay J in the main fuse box for the A/C rad fan, and also check relay G - it's for the rad fan.
Hope this helps!
Posted on Aug 09, 2009
SOURCE: fitting front headlights
You really need to clarify what you
are trying to do!
The headlight case is secured by two horizontal bolts at the top of the case, visible from outside the car and under the hood when it is slid forward but not raised, and one vertical screw at the outside of the case that connects to the body or side lamp case(?) and is visible from inside the engine bay. There is no adjustment to the fitting of the headlight case to the body.
Aiming the headlights is done with the nylon knobs on the back of the headlight, from inside the engine bay.
Posted on Mar 01, 2010
The fuse box is located on top of the drivers side fender under the hood. A smokey looking plastic box. There are two thumbscrews that hold it closed. Flip the lid over and it will tell you what fuses go where.
Posted on May 30, 2010
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