Question about 2002 Chevrolet Malibu
Theres a tool that you need after you remove outer rod .slip tool over inner turn left with breaker bar
Posted on Nov 29, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
remove your wheel to access before you remove tie rod mark the thread on the rack side, then its a matter of removing the split pin and loosening off the nut closes to the wheel then give it a good wack dont hit the thread once its free leave it until you crack the nut on the rack side once you have done this completely remove the old tie rod install the new one and wind it on to the position where you have marked and then put it back together your alignment still might not be accurate though it shouldnt be far out i would suggest a wheel alignment afterwards
Posted on Jun 02, 2008
undo bolts on inner and outer tie rods,u might need balljoint fork separator or 2 jaw puller to take them off of relay rod and steering knuckle,measure lenght of tie rod,loosen tube clamp and undo tie rod from tube,when installing make sure lenght is the same as before or wheel alignment will be off!
Posted on May 12, 2009
Not that hard, just spray the tie rod sleeve with WD40 night before and let it soak in. Remove the collier pin and and nut and hammer the old inner tie rod end out of the Track rod with a 5 pound sledge hammer. Remove the inner tie rod end from the sleeve and don't forget to mark the distance so you can place the new tie rod end at the same length. Reinstall the inner tie rod end to the Track rod and tighten the nut and replace the collier pin with a new one. Grease the fitting and go for a test drive, if the truck does not wonder then your good to go with out a alignment. Good luck and hope this helps, Note, make sure you have to right inner tie rod ends. Each side has different thread rotations.
Posted on Jun 03, 2009
SOURCE: repair steering linkage
You'll have to rent or borrow a pickle fork and a pitman arm puller. There is more than one size of pickle fork so specify for tie rod ends. You can buy them too, about $100 for the pair and they are not vehicle specific.
Jack and block up your front end so the wheels are clear. Take the nut off the tie rod end and wedge the pickle fork between the tie rod and the drag link, rap with a hammer until it separates. Loosen the bolt on the collar and unscrew the tie rod end. Count the turns when you remove it and screw the new one in the same number of turns.Fit it into the drag link and tighten the collar and the new nut.
Take the nut off the idler arm and use the pickle fork to separate it from the drag link. Unbolt the idler arm from the frame. The new one goes on in the reverse.
You'll probably need an adjustable wrench to remove the nut from the pitman arm,it's bigger than most wrench sets. Separate it from the drag link first. Slide the puller on and tighten it up. Once it starts to turn hard, give the bolt on the puller a rap with the hammer and tighten some more. Repeat until the arm comes off. Slip the new one on and tighten.
Don't be shy when you tighten these parts because if there is play, the holes in the drag link will oval out and you will have to replace it too. Don,t use a pickle fork on the pitman arm or you will have to replace the seal in the bottom of the steering box. Hope this helps.
Posted on Jul 08, 2009
raise the truck and have some one rock the steering wheel back and forth while you look for excessive movement at the idler arm - also check is the input shaft on the steering gear box rotating more than the output(pitman arm side) i've seen more steering box failure in the last several years especially true with big tires or boggy road driving, a rebuilt box can be bought at a local parts store- o'reillys, advance, napa etc.
Posted on Nov 23, 2009
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