Howto bleed e47 meyers pump - Cars & Trucks

Bad hose

when you changed the solenoids did you replace the valve bodies.
this sounds like a spool is bleeding back ( not sealing) it will work fine but just will not hold the pressure. they may need rebuilt.

mine did the same thing bump the blade to push the cylinder back in .if low on fluid use only Meyers fluid only

My 97 Suburban had a similar problem. Would not crank on a regular basis. Replaced spark plug wires, plugs and rotor cap. Vehicle cranked and ran just fine, plugs were in poor shape. Checked fuel pressure, above 55psi with engine running or just the switch turned on. Immediately after switching engine off the pressure would bleed off to "0" PSI. Otherwise everything OK. Problem solved, so I thought. A couple days latter I had to make a road trip from Mobile, Al to Fort Meyers, Fl when cranking problem re-occurred after approx. 100 miles into trip. I stopped at parts houses on the way to ask questions and to obtain their best ideas, at times it would take 30 minutes before engine would again crank after making a stop. I replaced almost all of the sensors. Finally made it to Fort Meyers that night. Next morning vehicle was dead would not crank no matter what I tried. Fuel pressure OK. Only thing left to replace, Fuel Injector spider system. Problem solved.

Not a real big deal , except there is an extra bleeder that is difficult to find. When the line leaves the master cylinder it travels behind some comedic covers on the firewall, follow the line from master c till it intersects with a block. Sometimes the extra bleeder will be directly on the block and sometimes it will be at the end of a line near the passenger side headlight that is connected to this line. So now that you have found the line i would do a gravity bleed first . Fill the resevoir and open bleeder at transmission. When it runs clear ( no bubbles) close it. Now bleed the accumalator block the same way. make sure the resevoir is kept full all the time. Now have someone pump pedal slowly and with full strokes 4 times. crack the block bleeder first while the pedal is being held to the floor . Then close it making sure the pedal is not released while bleeder is open. repeat procedure on slave bleeder and on block bleeder till trans will go in gear with the engine running smoothly.

TRY THIS LINK HOPE THIS HELPS.

www.rustrepair.com/snow_plow_parts/onlinecat.htm?r=sn&p=sn-meyer-my.wire

I would check the hand control box it sounds to me like an electrical problem, if you know a dealer, plug in a new control box, this should narrow it down.

Did you bleed the air out of the system?
Also your lights will dim when running the pump. I dont know off hand how many amps it draws but
it is enough to dim your lites. that problem is normal..
Only other thing I can think of is the cable running from your battery to your pump a battery cable or a thin wire. It should be a heavy 0 gauge wire or you
wont get enough amps to run the pump to its max

meyers has a great support page meyers.com and go to support section

bleeding clutch requires 2 people one to mash the pedal and 1 to open bleed valves or open line by breaking loosening a connection and use the fill plug on sid eof trans to fill when full fluid will come out of this fill plug remember it is on the side of the transmission