Question about 1990 Pontiac Grand Prix
Car runs good cold but after warming up it stalls under hard accerleration
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: will not start when engine warm
Sounds more like your ignition module is getting hot and not working. I'd go there first before replacing the ECM. You can remove the ignition module and most NAPA stores have the ability to test them for you. Make sure they test it at least 5 times. This way it'll simulate starting and stopping.
Posted on Jul 23, 2008
sounds like your IAC (idle air control valve) located on the throttle body towards the front of the engine held in by 2 torx screws. the iac controls the idle if the car when your not on the gas. i will post the steps to clean the iac and the passages that the iac goes into.
1. disconnect the iac connector
2. remove the iac
3 clean the iac pintle valve and check for wear
4. clean the passages that the pintle valve sits in (usually carbon build-up in there, you may need to remove the air intake tube and air filter box to get to the passages in the throttlebody)
5. if the iac looks ok and the passages are cleaned re-install and put everything back
6. start car and see if it idles like normal when warmed up. you may need to give it a few tries for the iac to re-learn its proper position so give it a few warmup cycles
7. if it still stalls check for proper operation of the iac via ohming out the connectors (if you look it up on google you will find the specs at which the iac is supposed to operate)
8. if the iac is working properly, check for vacuum leaks on the intake manifold and vacuum lines.
9. if no vacuum leaks are present and the iac id working properly after cleaning have a shop check the ecm (engine control module) for a bad circuit board, i've seen that haoppen as well
hope this helps!
Posted on Feb 17, 2009
You can clean the EGR. No promise it will work. I have an idle problem on my `97 Grand Am Se. Shop told me I could clean it and it might solve my problem.
Just remove the EGR with the 2 bolts from the top of the manifold behind the throttle body if you have a 3.4 v6 like I do. Then leave it upside down with throttle body cleaner in it. Fill the EGR level with cleaner and let it soak for at least 30 min or more. Then reinstall.
This will remove any carbon on the inside which plugs the needle from pushing out at highway speeds. Hope this helps. If the problem returns in a week or so then replace with new EGR. New EGR is about $100-200! Cleaning seems to have helped my car did that about 3 weeks ago.
If you have a service engine light on turn the key to the run position on the ignition, pull the fuse to the ECM (batt) and disconnect the wire harness to the EGR. Reinstall it after a 1 min, That will clear all the codes in the ECM and reset everything.
Once you place the ECM fuse back in, start the car. It may stall but let it, DO NOT TOUCH ANY THING. The ECM need to relearn the EGR and engine from all it's sensors like the first time it was started. Just start it up again and it should be like the day it came off the assembly line and will relearn everything.
Good luck and just drive it like you always. If you decide to change the EGR valve, you still need to clear the ECM as mentioned above for the ECM to relearn the new EGR valve. Hope this helps and keep me posted.
Posted on May 25, 2009
Why would you replace the fuel pump and filter for a compression problem. You either have a bad cylinder head, or a bad motor. Those are the only 2 things that will give you low compression. If you are talking about the engine revving up while driving down the road, you have a transmission problem.
Posted on Jul 29, 2009
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How to Check? The MAP has three electrical
pins, one for 12 volts (or 5 volts) reference, one for ground and the third
(the middle one generally) is the 'signal' output. Put a voltmeter positive connector on the 'signal'
pin of the connected socket (back probe by inserting a bit of wire). Apply suction to the vacuum input, even
sucking on it with your mouth, should result in a measurable voltage output. At normal air pressure (open throttle) the
voltage seen should be 0 volts. As
vacuum is applied the voltage output should change to about 5 volts (throttle
closed at idle). If no transition seen
the MAP is faulty.
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