Question about 2005 Ford Escape
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This is a problem with the alternator. Diode rectifiers and voltage regulator replacement will give this baby a 14.2 voltage output. In this 3L V6 SUV removal of the alternator requires removing the right tire, the right axis and undercovering to reach the 6G alternator. It is a 133mm rectifier with a motorcraft, The serpentine belt is better removed from the bottom. Also keep a bucket on hand to recover the oil from the transmission.
Posted on Jan 15, 2009
I had the same problem on my 2002 Escape. Ended up taking it to the dealer and they replaced the Lift Gate Lock Actuator - cost us about $310 (parts and labor). Part #1C3F-18C815-AB
Posted on Mar 19, 2010
SOURCE: my 2006 ford escape alarm
Sounds like one of the sensors are on the edge of going off. Here's how to tell which one. Lock the car, wait for the alarm to set, wiggle the hood, doors, and rear hatch. hopefully you will find which one is doing it. Most of the time you can just replace the pin switch.
Post back if I can be more help. or you have any more questions.
Good Luck God Bless,
Posted on Jun 09, 2011
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Subject; 2006 Ford Escape
Re: dome light, door ajar lamp on dash, uncontrollable alarm activation. I just purchased the subject vehicle and did have problems with the factory (OEM ) alarm going off through the day and night. The first thing I did to fix the problem was; I removed all the door locks from each of the doors and disassembled them to ensure proper operation of the micro switches within each of the door locks. I also checked the hood trigger switch to ensure it was functioning correctly. I removed the plastic cover on the inside of the hatch to ensure proper function of the two door latches under it (one for the hatch the other for the glass). Still having the problems I originally had I decided my problem could be a bad ground to the frame. So I made another ground from a trigger switch to the chassis (frame). I made my ground connection above the headliner on the right rear of the vehicle. Raise the main rear hatch and pull the top section of the plastic corner post panel back, pull the headliner down to expose the multi pin connector going to the rear hatch wiring. In that bundle of wires is a black/White stripe wire. I soldered a wire to that wire and attached the other to ground. I would not suggest removing the locks from your doors or hatch, and oil/WD-40 won't work either. However high pressure air with carburetor cleaner seem to work best for me in making the door locks work smoother. Basically all the cleaner does is removed dirt and dust buildup from around the micro switch assembly within each door. You could potentially have a bad door lock to but can isolate them one by one. Good luck.
Jun 09, 2011 | 2005 Ford Escape
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