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97 ford escort hoses dry rotting

My 97 escort has been having an issue with the rubber hoses dry rotting and cracking, we have replaced the same hoses 3 times in 4 months and same problem. ford wants us to run a diagnostics to find out what is causing the problem but im hoping to find the answer without spending all that money. some other things about this car... we bought it a year ago this month, and have literally spent more money in repairs than we did in buying the car (sucky deal i know) we have replaced the ENTIRE steering system, the timing belt (twice) the serpentine belt, the battery, had the alternator tested,sparks and wires were changed within the last 3 months, pcv valve is new, radiator cap is (supposedly) new (i am not sure i trust the ppl that say they did that work...) the car is now idling very hard at intersections where we have to slow down, and if i dont put it in neutral (almost before completely stopped) it stalls on me. when i first start going in the morning it hesitates, and acts lilke it doesnt want to accelerate. the check coolant light comes on almost every morning, even tho it is the middle of winter and we fill it with coolant every day. i was told this was due to needing a new cap and that has NOT fixed the problem...the check engine light has been on and no one can give me a definitive answer as to why the light is on. We did get a few breaks, a guy at O'reilley's auto parts was awesome and did a bunch of looking under the hood and gave us a bunch of solutions that worked temporarily... but the main thing that stopped the idling the first time was a hose that he replaced for me, but that was 2 months ago and that hose (a good brand i was told) is already dry rotted and had to be replaced AGAIN. what could be causing the problems???? PLEASE help im so tired of sinking so much money into this car... i feel like im working just to pay for repairs...

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I don't want to hurt your feelings-- but that situation may be
be only the third time in the last 35 years-- I would say part with it

Posted on Nov 29, 2012

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

WildBill49
  • 97 Answers

SOURCE: 1989 dodge Ramcharger stalls

Hi Monkeypaint!
I assume you have power brakes and I gather that it idles properly at times, but dies when the brakes are applied. This sound like a leaking power brake assist vacuum line or diaphram. You can verify this by locating the big vacuum hose connecting the intake manifold to the assist diaphram. This will be about an inch in diameter connected to the round item behind the brake master cylinder next to the firewall.

  1. Disconnect the line at the intake manifold end, and plug the vacuum port on the manifold with a tapered rubber stopper or cap.
  2. Being aware that you now do NOT have power assist to the brakes (requiring CONSIDERABLY more pedal pressure to stop!!!), see if the problem goes away. If it does, you have narrowed it down to the assist diaphram or the hose. If it still persists, it is an engine tuning/control issue, not related to brakes.
  3. Do determine whether it is the vacuum hose or the cannister, remove the previously installed cap/plug, reinstall the hose to the intake manifold, disconnect it from the diaphram and plug/cap the hose at that end. Repeat step three... if the problem returns, the hose is leaking and should be replaced... If the problem still goes away, the Power Brake Assist Diaphram Cannister is leaking excessively and should be replaced.
  • ***ALSO*** Any other vacuum lines leaking can lower the manifold vacuum to a threshold level where the load of power brake assist actuation crosses the line for adequate vacuum to idle*** So check all vacuum lines underhood, looking for a pronounced hissing at vacuum leaks. A manifold vacuum gauge is a relatively inexpensive diagnostic tool that could also be useful.
Well, hope this helps, and good luck! Don't forget to rate this answer!
Thanks!
-WB

Posted on Jun 15, 2008

kevinpenney
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: power steering problem, noise coming from engine, 97 montero

Your experiencing the same thing my 02 is experiencing- your crankshaft pulley is slipping on the crankshaft. It only does it under load, i.e. turning steering wheel(loads the power steering pump) running heater blower on high with headlights on (loading the alternator) or running the a/c with blower (loading the a/c compressor and alternator). Turning off all lights, blowers, ac, etc and allowing the car to idle should kill the slipping until loaded again. This problem is very serious and very expensive if your don't catch it early. It require repairs ranging from tightening the crank to pulley bolt, to replacing the pulley AND your crankshaft if it is allowed to continue. if you cannot get it serviced immediately then do your best to keep loads off of your belts by driving with the blower off, A/C off, and lights used only when necessary. Also try to avoid extreme tight turns which load your power steering pump. Your repair, if not done asap, will cost you upwards of around $3k since the motor must be removed and completely torn down to replace your crankshaft and pulley. I would seek a tech who will exhaust every other method- i.e. sleeving, welding, etc. to effect a repair. Just don't put it off because it will only get worse...

Posted on Jan 05, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: hesitation during acceleration

could be the type of plug you are using.I was told only to use ngk plugs.I recently put bosch plugs in my mazda 3 and the check engine light came on and it started missfiring.

Posted on May 03, 2009

emissionwiz
  • 75235 Answers

SOURCE: PCV valve? IAC valve? Sparkplug wire? Throttle body? Vacuum hose?

the most common causes are plug wire, plug, vacuum leak at intake, fuel injector failure and last no/low cylinder compressio.

Posted on May 22, 2009

  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: 1993 Chevy S10 Blazer engine hesitation with smoke from exhaust

Had a 94 Olds Bravada that did a similar thing and it was EGR valve on the front of the intake. It' s easy to take off and clean with WD 40 and if you have an air compressor blow it out good.

Posted on Jan 24, 2010

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1 Answer

Can you use a lower radiator hose to replace the hose that is conected to the fuel tank? I believe its called the filler hose, but I'm not really a great mechanic LOL.


No, the radiator hose is made for use with water and coolant products only. The Fuel talk filler hose is a specially treated and fabricated type of hosing that is resistant to fossil fuel and oil products. If you try using a radiator hose, you will likely eat through that hose with gasoline and then you will have a really bad situation. I hope I have been of help to you.

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What is the name of the first hose that is connected directly to the fuel tank.


Glad to help. Hi it's called a FUEL FILLER NECK HOSE PIPE. i have no data on size. Cheers

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Why does my 97 tahoe leans to the left side


Frame could be twisted from a previous wreck, the rubber isolators for the cab shell to frame could be dry rotting or in an area rusting out. Was it ever crashed- anti sway bar might reveal a twist)? Core support might be twisted. Other suspension components may be dry rotting or worn. Front tires may also be two different sizes overall.

New springs replaced pairs would be a better solution than spacers if evertything tracks back to spring height issues. You may also have some cracked leaves in the rear springs as well.

Have you checked the ride height and made those adjustments yet?

Dec 18, 2011 | Chevrolet Tahoe Cars & Trucks

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What is a pxe hose?


2002 Ford Taurus; never heard of a PXE hose. Are you sure it isn't a PCV hose? I know that vehicle is known to hesitate and run rough when this hose dry rots and crack. Double check if you can, I hope this was of some help. Good luck.

Aug 31, 2011 | 2002 Ford Taurus

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My 97 dodge interpid idles way to high.can u tell me how to idle it down. and tell me where to look.


I would try looking under the hood for a vacuum leak. with the engine running try to listen for a hissing sound, or if the engine is to loud to do so look around at the rubber vacuum lines and see if any are dry rotted and or cracked. If everything looks fine it could be the Idle Air Control motor mounted next to the throttle body, hopefully you don't have a cracked intake.

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The car is idling ruff, it feels like its ready to shut off when i come to a stop.i have to take it out of gear and give it gas so it won't shut off.


These cars had a very common problem with the hose that goes to the PCV valve. The rubber elbows in the hose rot out and create a big vacuum leak. Inspect the hose that goes to the PCV valve and replace any worn parts and your problem will be solved.

May 01, 2010 | 1999 Ford Escort

1 Answer

Oil coming from the area where rubber hose goes


pcv cracked? The spark plugs are installed into the top of the head.
Replace cracked or dry rotted hose or the gromit for the crank case pressure valve, this should return through a line to the intake. Good luck

Aug 29, 2009 | 2003 Chrysler PT Cruiser

1 Answer

One headlight opens and closes slower than the other.


Most of the time you will find that it's rotting rubber hoses. If these have never been replaced, they're 28 years old! Engine heat, exposure to the elements that splash up under the car, and age can rot them.

Also the actuator has a rod that comes out. This rod has a seal around it. The seal rots too. The actuator is the large vacuum cannister, that looks like two pie pans put together. It is down near the headlight. When you have the hood open, look down towards one of the headlights.
Sometimes the vacuum tank develops a hole. This can be patched. It's up on the side of the fender.

Here, let me show you the headlight mechanism,
http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette-c3-headlight-actuator-linkage-parts-1-249-6088.html
I use this website for my parts, but this is not a link to them for advertisement. It just shows an exploded drawing, so I can explain better.

B is the Headlight Actuator. See the long rod coming out of the middle? Has threads on the end of it? Where the rod goes up into the cannister, there is a rubber seal. This dries out and cracks, and also wears through time. Corvette parts places (At least online I know they do) sell this rubber seal.

There is also a small check valve that can go bad.
You can buy the vacuum hoses in a kit. They are color coded, and have replacement instructions.

To review:
1.Check all vacuum hoses for drying and cracking. Actually squeeze them, don't just look at them. If they have a crack from your squeezing, they're shot! (You might find that some just crumble in your fingers! Oh, by the way. Dawn dishwashing soap, or GoJo takes that black rubber residue off of your fingers)

2.Start the car, let it build up vacuum. Shut the car off, and use the override switch, (Knob under the headlight switch you pull), to keep the headlights in an up position. Put your finger on that actuator rubber seal I described above, and see if you feel a vacuum leak.
If so, replace the seal.

3.It's a good idea to replace the check valve,
http://www.volvette.com/HE76.html

4.It's also a good idea to replace the vacuuum filter,
(Vacuum reserve check valve air filter) http://www.volvette.com/HE75.html


Apr 04, 2009 | 1981 Chevrolet Corvette

1 Answer

97 Dodge Ram 1500 Club Cab w/n turn over


Common problem with Dodge Rams. Nobody has the right parts (dealer only) the right part numbers, or the right diagrams or component lists or locations.
The 5.9 L most likely has no EGR valve, as mine does not. It does however have an Idle Air Control Valve located at the back bottom of the throttle body, which if removed, will show carbon buildup, preventing proper fuel/air mix.
You also may have a vacum leak at one or more vacum hoses on the intake manifold, a leak at the vacum ball that stores vacum for working the vent controls when the engine is off. It looks like a big black ball, and has a vacum line going from the top of the intake to the ball, maybe located behind the RH pass headlight. The rubber hoses dry oput, crack, and rot after a few years due to OZONE exposure from the air. Go ot and buy 6 or 8 feet od 3/32 rubber vacum hose, and replace everything that is suspect. Look for cracked Ts. Dont forget to check the larger vacum hoses that go to the charcoal canister and fuel tank vent valves. The rubber elbows have a tendency to pop off the charcoal canister connectors on a hot day if you overfill the gas tank, and the rubber elbows are old and stretched out.
God Luck.

Sep 25, 2008 | 1998 Dodge Ram

1 Answer

Gas


Check the rubber air intake hose from the air cleaner box to the engine,(take it off) it may be cracked, when the engine moves the crack opens and all that extra air chokes out the engine, saw this allot on escorts in my 20 years as Ford dealer Tech.

Aug 18, 2008 | 1998 Ford Escort

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