Question about 1989 Saab 900 4 Door
I have pulled up chiltons and it mentions aligning the zero mark on the flywheel. do i have to pull the engine to re-time or is there a acces cover or something
There should be an access cover on very top of the housing over the flywheel. May have a rubber plug over it.
Posted on Nov 29, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Remove Air Filter.
Loosen the bolts securing the crankshaft pulley. Remove the load from the
belt tensioner by turning the belt tensioner pulley locking bolt forward in the
car using a 15 mm wrench. Remove the belt from the coolant pump pulley and
slowly release the belt tensioner.
Remove the belt tensioner and remove the steering pump pulley
Remove the water pump pulley use the engine bracket to pry against.
Remove the timing cover and Remove the right-hand front wheel and the cover
in the wheel housing.
Remove the crankshaft pulley (undo the six bolts but do not remove the
Place the engine top dead center and Zero the engine. The markings on the
camshaft sprockets and timing cover should be in alignment as also should the
marking on the crankshaft. Use locking tools 83 95 006 and KM-800-2 for the
camshaft sprockets and locking tool KM-800-10 for the crankshaft (These tools
can be purchased from Saab (18774177222) or from Baum Tools).
Before removing the toothed belt mark its direction of rotation . To
facilitate refitting the belt can be marked at both the camshaft marking and the
STEP 10 Fit the toothed belt according to the marked direction of rotation. Use setting tool 83 95 006 to keep the belt in place and adjust the tensioning roller loosely by hand to prevent the belt from jumping off. Adjust counterclockwise. Fit a section of the toothed belt and fit tool 83 93 985 to measure the belt tension. Loosely tighten the centre bolts of the adjusting rollers. Adjust the lower adjusting roller counter clockwise to a belt tension of 275-300 Nm. Turning torque 30 lb.ft ft ******The adjustment of the belt tension is for preparation ONLY and must not be used as a check when the belt adjusted for the final time! STEP 11 Turn the engine over two revolutions until just before the zero mark and place the locking tool on the crankshaft. Carefully turn the crankshaft in the direction of engine rotation until the arm rests against the coolant pump's flange and then tighten the arm. Fit setting tool 8395006 and check that the markings on the camshaft sprockets are aligned with the markings in the tool. ********Check that the A marking is approximately 2mm above B marking. If the distance is less readjustment is necessary. STEP 12 Fit the crankshaft pulley and Tighten to a torque of 15 foot lbs. STEP 13 Reinstall the inner wheel cover and front right wheel.
STEP 14 Reinstall Timing Cover.
STEP 15 Reinstall the water pump pulley use the engine bracket for leverage. STEP 16 Reinstall the power steering pulley and tighten to 6 foot lbs. STEP 17 Reinstall the belt tensioner and tighten to 30 foot lbs. STEP 18 Remove the belt tensioner load/pressure by turning the belt tensioner pulley locking bolt forwards in the car using a 15 mm wrench. Install the belt on the coolant pump pulley. Carefully release the belt tensioner. STEP 19 Reinstall the Air Cleaner and hoses that accompany Release the belt tension and remove the toothed belt.
Posted on Aug 24, 2008
SOURCE: 1993 saab 900 belt diagram
Sorry, I don't have access to a Bentley now. There are 4 belts, 2 for alternator etc, 1 for aircon and 1 for pwr steering.
The power steering belt goes round the power steering pump & crank pulley only.
The paired belts go round crank pulley, alternator and water pump.
The aircon belt goes round crank pulley, aircon compressor and tensioner.
Alternator / water pump pair are closest to the engine.
Power steering is in the middle (with aircon) or closest to the bulkhead (without aircon).
Aircon (if fitted) is closest to the bulkhead.
(1) If you do not have an AC compressor, skip this step and go to step 2. If you dohave one, begin by cutting any cable ties that hold the main wiringharness to the AC hoses. Lift the harness up and over onto the camcover until it's near the PCV valve, and is now out of your way.
All nuts & bolts in this step are 13 mm.
Then, slacken the 2 bolts attaching the AC tensioner pulley mount (athick triangular steel plate) to the head. Use a long box wrench (ringspanner, in English ).
Using a deep-wall socket (or an offset ratchet wrench, or plain wrench)on the adjuster nut, back it off until there's no more tension in thebelt (you won't be able to remove the belt yet, though).
Now, remove the upper of the 2 mounting bolts and its washer, and pivot the tensioner down; remove the belt.
Remove the lower bolt, and lift out the tensioner. Look the triangularplate over for cracks, and spin the pulley to see if its bearing issmooth and quiet. (If you find problems, the pulley is about $15 and www.eeuroparts.com sells the entiretensioner assembly for something like $70.) Back off the adjuster nutuntil it's about 1/4" (1/2 cm) from the end of its threaded rod (usevise-grips to clamp the rod's other end onto the triangular plate, orput the whole thing in a vise).
(2) Slacken the bolt and nut holding the power steering pump to thehead and to the RH engine mount, respectively. Slacken the adjuster nut(yes, anotherthreaded-rod type thing) by about 1/2" (1 cm). You can use a normalwrench for this, but it takes forever--so I made a special tool bytaking a cheapo 13 mm open-jaw wrench and bending it to a 45-degreeangle just below the jaws (cut it to length if it's too hard tomaneuver). Loosen the mounting nut until it's almost off (but not completely off,or you'll lose the bolt it screws onto--this bolt was designed to fallout when the nut is removed). Pull the nut end of the threaded rodtowards the firewall to get it of the adjuster fork. Push the pumptowards the engine centerline and pull its belt off (you may need topry with a screwdriver to get it out of the pump pulley completely).
(3) Slacken the 16 mm nut on top of the alternator. Back off the alt.adjuster's 10 mm nut about 1/2" (1 cm)--a ratcheting wrench helps here.(This is the last threaded rod--I promise.) Completely remove the 16 mmnut, and pull the adjuster towards the firewall until it's out of thealt.
Now for the clever part: Cut yourself a wedge from a piece of wood (2 x4 is perfect), with a rise of 3" (8 cm) and a run of about 12" (30 cm).Push the alt. towards the engine, and shove the wedge in between theside of the alt. and the coil-spring tower (master cylinder mountingbracket works, too). Keep pushing the alt. and driving the wedge downuntil the alt. is so close to the engine that it's compressing thelower heater hose.
Pull the outer belt off the alt. pulley. Working from the RH side ofthe car, lift the belt off the water pump pulley and then disengage itfrom the crank pulley. Now, pull the inner belt into the outergroove of the water pump pulley. Go back to the LH side of the car, andmove the inner belt into the alt. pulley's outer groove. Try removingit from this pulley; if too difficult, either wedge the alt. closer tothe engine or try pulling the belt off the water pump pulley from theRH side of the car (a helper is very useful for all this).
(4) Install the new inner belt by fitting it into its groove in thecrank pulley first. Work it into the outer grooves of the alt. andwater pump pulleys, then into the inner ones. Install the outerbelt--again, first onto the crank pulley, then the water pump and alt.pulleys.
Remove wedge. Insert tensioner into alt. making sure the threaded rodsettles into its fork, and refit its 16 mm nut--but don't fully tightenit yet. Tighten 10 mm adjuster nut until belts can be pushed in only1/2" (1 cm) by thumb pressure (applied 1/2 way between water pump andcrank pulleys).
(5) Push PS pump as close to engine centerline as possible, andfinger-tighten its mounting bolt to hold it there. Fit a new beltaround the crank pulley first, then work it into the pump pulley groovefrom the bottom of the pulley until it pops in. You may need to use both hands, and/or carefully pry the belt on with a screwdriver.
Loosen the bolt you just tightened. Pull the pump away from enginecenterline, insert threaded rod into its fork (you may have to back theadjuster nut off some more), tighten the mounting nut (but notcompletely), and screw in the adjuster nut until the belt deflects asdescribed in (4) above.
(6) Start the engine. Blip throttle, watching the belts deflect as theengine speed goes up and down. If the "blur" you see midway down eachbelt is over 1" (2 cm) wide, tighten the belt(s) until it isn't. Tighten the PS pump mounting nut and bolt, and the 16mm nut on the alt.
If your car doesn't have AC, your belt replacement is over!
(7) If you haveAC, reattach the tensioner to the head with the lower bolt only (andleave this bolt finger-tight). Fit the new belt around the crankpulley, then around the compressor pulley and, finally, around thetensioner.
Reinstall the top tensioner bolt and its washer. Be careful and patienthere--you're threading a steel bolt into aluminum, so make sure it goesin straight. You may have to back off the tensioner nut a little. Leavethis bolt finger-tight.
Screw in the adjuster nut to get the deflection as described in (4)above. Start the engine, and blip the throttle. Watch belt's "blur" on LHside of engine. Adjust as in (6). Switch on compressor, and repeat.
If satisfied, tighten the 2 tensioner bolts. Return wiring harness toits original position, and re-secure with cable ties if needed.
Posted on Dec 16, 2008
The dip stick end should have a plastic square piece with two roundish bulbs on each end. The oil level should read just at the bottom of the top bulb (the bulb nearest the yellow cap at the top end of the dip stick). This indicates full. A level reading anywhere between the two bulbs is adequate but not optimal. Oil below the top end of the bottom bulb, means 1 quart low, and no oil at all on the bottom bulb means get some oil in there double quick.
Posted on May 06, 2009
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