Question about Cars & Trucks
After changing the thermostat and have attempted to bleed the air out of the system, the upper radiator hose remains hard.
I don't think ,its thermostat issue.If the upper hose is hard and hot to touch then this indicates thermostat is open and working properly.Drive few miles and see if A/c is giving cold air properly or not.It seems like radiator is plugged/clogged and that is causing the problem.----------- Upper Radiator Hose Hard
To understand the radiator hose theory ,i suggest you to click the link below and refer its details:------
------------These will help.Thanks.
Upper Radiator Hose Hard
Posted on Nov 28, 2012
Hard after it warms up you should be okey
Check the bottle after it is cold--- to see if it
still draws coolant
Posted on Nov 28, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
the open pipe that you took the hose off of is the thermostat housing, you will need to remove this to reveal the thermostat, make sure you use a new gasket with sealant when reinstalling thermostat housing to prevent leaks and dont over tighten the bolts,run both bolts down as far as you can before final tightning
Posted on Dec 26, 2008
SOURCE: THERMOSTAT REPLACEMENT
You will need a 1/2" socket with ratchet, and a 1/2" wrench for the actual removal of the thermostat housing. First, remove the air duct from the air filter housing and the air intake connection to the engine. Set aside. Next, remove the upper radiator hose from where it connects to the engine by loosening the hose clamp. At the other end of this part where the hose was removed from is the "L" shape that houses the thermostat and bolts to the engine. This part (housing) has two bolts. The top bolt will require the use of an extension on your ratchet which you will need to insert between the water bypass pipe and the exhaust heat shield before coupling with the 1/2" socket. Loosen the top bolt. The bottom bolt will require the use of the 1/2" wrench, as the socket will not fit due to the location of the heat shield. NOTE: the bottom bolt only needs to be LOOSENED and not removed, as the housing has an open "C" at the lower bolt location allowing the housing to pivot upward from that bolt. After removing the top bolt and loosening the lower bolt, you can pivot the "pipe" end of the housing downward and carefully maneuver the housing out of its location. You should now see the thermostat. Clean surfaces of the engine and housing well. Insert the new thermostat with the "spring" into the engine and the "bell" outward. Be sure the seal is seated properly into its socket in the engine. Position the housing carefully, making sure not to move the thermostat out of position. Reassembly is the reverse of removal. In my case, I did not use any gasket seal. The thermostat has a rubber seal on it which works well on its own. Adding gasket seal may make removing the housing in the future more difficult
Posted on Jun 01, 2009
Definitely recommended - Process is fairly simple, let the vehicle idle and/or reach normal operating temperature - turn the"bleed screw" slightly open and note as the air bubbles escapes from the screw. Also make sure the radiator is topped up with sufficient coolant. Funny enough, the mechanic should have taken care of this process after replacing the thermostat....
Posted on Jul 16, 2009
I have a 1985 Jetta diesel. What I did since the car has no way of bleeding the air out of the system via bleeder screw I parked the car on a slight incline leaving the tank for the fluid at a higher level. I ran the car until the thermostat opened (The thermostat is on the bottom of my engine) I kept topping off the antifreeze. I also kept a jug of anti freeze and water in my car for the next few day. Whenever I got done driving the car and the car cooled off I would check it to see if I needed to top it off. I finally got the air out of it. You could call the vw dealer to see if there is a bleeder on the engine, if so open the bleeder and fill until antifreeze/water comes out, then close the bleeder and top it off to the full level. Just to be safe check the level after you drive the car. Air can still get trapped.
Posted on Sep 06, 2009
If you have no radiator cap that can be removed, you will probably have to do repeated cycles of engine temperature and just add coolant to the overflow until the engine stops draining it.
This isn't like a hydraulic (brake) system so the chance of leaving bubbles behind is far less.
With a radiator cap, it's pretty simple; run the engine until the coolant is visibly circulating and add coolant as the level drops.
Posted on Oct 08, 2009
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