I have a 1996 Honda accord. Its leaking coolant from the front driver side of the engine. Hoses are good. N I don't know where its coming from. Im thinking bad water pump I hope???? Im constantly putting antifreeze in it. Plz help...

a leak
find source,
once found, replace the bad part,(source) hose or fitting ,etc.
behind means?
in SAE rules behind, means to rear of car. is that you?
old post, easy , it leaks, be happy it tells you before you burn the engine a crisp,
this car if still stock , all hoses on car are bad.
ALL water hoses.
they dont last life of the engine, ever.
not ever.

could be a hose but it is costly
always check the water and have it pressure tested fast
driving with a leak can empty the sustem and burn the engine

Sounds as if it's coming from the weep hole on the water pump. Water pumps will leak out of the intended weep hole when it's time for replacement and based on the mileage it's definitely time. The coolant will only leak when the engine is not running and will not leak much. Unless you have documentation proving the timing belt was changed at the scheduled interval I highly recommend you have that service performed as well along with a new idler pulley and belt tensioner. You are time and money ahead of yourself to have all of these parts replaced at the same time since the same amount of labor is involved. I recommend finding a reputable independent repair shop that specializes in Hondas and use only OEM parts. Be sure to specify OEM-only and clarify not OEM-comparible parts. Good luck.

If you have the V6 (2.5L) engine, be advised: it's a wearing task. Just getting to the radiator drain plug can be a problem without a 3/8 inch drive ratchet, a 3 inch extension, a universal joint. and a 19 mm socket. The drain plug is on the passenger side of the radiator on the engine side. The 19mm socket will fit over the drain plug to turn it open.
The coolant plumbing on this engine is the craziest I have ever seen. The thermostat is on the rear face of the engine (where the radiator hoses connect), but not on the upper hose where it connects to the upright pipe with the radiator cap on it, it is on the lower hose connection. Pull that hose off the housing, and remove the three bolts holding the thermostat housing to the engine. It will help if you first remove the big air inlet hose from the air filter housing to the throttle body. I wouldn't even bother with the thermostat till you have found the leak. Is any coolant leaking from the front of the engine, dripping off the bottom behind the crank pulley? That would be a water pump problem or SEAL, an o-ring on the back of the water pump. Now get on the driver's side and look around on the rear of engine nearest the firewall where engine and transaxle mate. Look down there for signs of coolant coming from rear of engine and running down onto the transaxle case. There is a metal pipe laying in the valley below the lower intake manifold, connecting the water pump at the front and the rear housing where the radiator hoses and heater hoses connect. This metal pipe uses an o-ring for a seal into the water pump, and the same size o-ring to connect to the rear housing. If one of those o-rings is leaking, you have a big problem getting to it.. I took the rear housing off once (never again!), Now I'm taking the water pump off to fix a leak. The water pump is run by the timing belt, so the front of engine needs to be stripped down, and the timing belt removed to take off the water pump. That metal pipe is held in place by a bracket with one bolt on the rear of engine; it may require taking the lower intake off (again) to get to both of those pesky o-rings. I hope you don't have the same problem, and if you have the 4 cylinder engine, the thermostat is a snap to replace, plus you don't have that crazy plumbing problem.

If it's from the front of the engine, the water pump may have failed. Check for water coming out from the bottom of the pump.
Was the overheating caused by low coolant level?
If not the pump, check your engine freeze plugs and hoses.

The first thing is to locate the coolant leak, you will need to pressurize the cooling system to locate the leak. these cars are famous for intake leaks, coolant and oil so take a good look at the intake where it meets the head, if theres coolant getting into the cylinder that may be the cause of the misfire. good day.

You didn't mention the model, year and engine. If this is a V6 or V8 then suspect a leaking intake manifold gasket.

The only other long hoses on that engine that I can think of, that might leak coolant, are the two heater hoses that run to the heater core, through the firewall. They do run right above the transmission, and might just be the source of your leak.

Some of this below I wrote to another person and copy/pasted it here so it directs to the water pump incase that's your issue. If your leak is on the driver's side of the engine read the last paragraph, if not... maybe you have a ruptured radiator hose that connects to the block below your distributor. Another hose is the obvious one in front that goes from the top of the radiator to the head. In the back of the engine there's a hose that runs coolant to your heater core and another hose that returns the coolant back to your motor. Those are smaller hoses than the 2 main ones.

Do you need a new water pump, the bearing might have went out in it and it has a "weep hole" that lets the coolant near the driver's side front tire (on the engine block) out to let you know what happened, rattling is a good indicator too. Change the timing belt at the same time and you'll be good for the next 125k miles. Don't drive it any more or you will possibly warp the head or ruin the head gasket. The cost is about $350. for all around here in central Ohio, don't know where you are but hopefully it's not more than that. If you try to do this yourself you will also want to learn how to set the timing. Good luck.

If your antifreeze is leaking into your engine oil, it will destroy the engine quickly. Check the level of both. But...you need to get a pressure gauge on it to apply pressure to the cooling system to see where the coolant is going first. White smoke is a sign of coolant in the engine oil.