Question about Cars & Trucks
Check engine light is on code stated secondary air pump was told the car only has one pump, could be the check valve, need to find out where it is on the car, and how difficult it is to replace.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Take off your EGR valve and clean it out with carb cleaner also
grease tyhe little screw thing in it,,, u will c what i mean if u take it apart. carbon builds up in the chamber. it is located at the back left side of your engine and is a bit of a pain to take off. this should save u the cost except for the cleaner and labor. i had the same problem cheapest i found was 90$ on ebay.
Posted on Jan 17, 2009
SOURCE: Secondary air supply failure
I have a 2005 Envoy with a 4.2..... Just recently the check engine light illuminated so I read the code after replacing the 20amp fuse labeled cigar. My OBDII connection had no power so if you plug your reader in and nothing check the fuse under the hood labeled "cigar"
After pulling the code P0410 Secondary Air Injection Malfunction I checked the operation of the air pump by removing the hose connected to the solenoid. By the way the solenoid is located on the pass side of the engine top towards the back. After pulling the hose off the solenoid I started the vehicle when it was cold and after 20 seconds or so the pump should turn on and blow air out of the hose. Once I verified the pump was operating I pulled the solenoid then placing jumpers from the Positive & Negative of the battery to the pins on the solenoid. You should be able to hear the solenoid click which says its operating. But mine did nothing so I read across the pins with an Ohm meter and verified the coil was good.
So take some good penetrating oil and fill the inside of the valve with it. You can see the plunger shaft assy in the opening and thats the area you want to fill with a good penetrating oil!!!! Let it sit for a couple of hours keeping it full of oil. The housing is aluminum and the shaft is likely to be a brass material so rust is not possible. Its caused by a buildup of carbon!! The penetrating oil will soften the carbon which in turn will free up the plunger!! MINE WORKS GREAT NOW and plus you will save around $140.00 if you were to buy it from the dealer!!! Or $80.00 aftermarket from RockAuto.com
Posted on Feb 10, 2009
SOURCE: Check engine light
Funny that they changed the temp guage sensor....known problem on pre-2001 Audi TT and VW engines. Maybe yours was an early build 2002, so they helped you avoid a future problem.
As for the air flow, another known problem is the MAF (mass airflow) sensor. Don't panic, as this is a do it yourself job. Very likely problem if you ever installed a K&N type aftermarket air filter. These oiled filters cause buildup on the sensor. Free fix is to take the sensor body off (its the big ring/pipe coming off the air filter box before the rubber air intake hose) and clean the senor with isopropyl alcohol. Sensor body comes off by loosening the hose clamp on one end, and two screws into the filter box on the other. Don't forget to release the wiring harness plug by gently releasing the tab with a flat head screwdriver.
If your not comfortable with the cleaning, just find the MAF part on-line...about $200 bucks for a new one from Bosch. Very easy to do it yourself and a common failure point on the Audi.
For those still having the coolant sensor problem, also easy to replace yourself....about $10 bucks with a new o-ring.
Like GURU said, a code reader tool will tell if you have these problems, after the engine light comes on.
Posted on Jul 03, 2009
SOURCE: 06/12/11 new question
Did you check to see if there is power getting to the pump? Did you check the air pump fuse? Do you have any power at the relay that you replaced? Is there any power at the combination valve? Is the computer able to ground the relay? Is the computer able to open the combination valve? Did the relay check bad? If not, why did you replace it?
The only way to effectively check the entire air pump system is with a scanner. You can perform continuity tests on every wire, but you cannot verify proper operation without a scanner. You must command the air pump on with the scanner and check to see if power is getting to the pump. Without the scanner there is no way to tell if the computer is even able to operate the relay so the pump can get the power it needs. There is most likely a broken wire or bad connector somewhere, but the only way to find this without a scanner would be to physically inspect every wire in the system manually and just hope and pray that the computer is actually sending the signal to the relay. (You will not know if it is a computer malfunction unless you physically eliminate EVERYTHING else.)
DTC P0410 sets when the PCM commands the air pump on and the combination valve open and there is no change in the oxygen sensor voltage. The problem can be in the air pump circuits, the combination valve circuits, The combination valve itself, the air pump itelf (not likely if you can get it to run with a jumper) a faulty PCM, or even rarely but possibly, clogged-up ports in the exhaust manifold. Again, a scanner is required to verify the operation of the circuits as well as to verify that the problem is fixed after repairs are made.
Please also review this article:
What Else Could Be Wrong?
Posted on Jun 13, 2011
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