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I put a new battery on my 2008 Chevy Equinox. I took it to get the inspection done and I was told that there has to be so many miles on my new battery before it passes inspection. I was told to drive 60 miles before the computer would be able to read it. Well I have driven 500 miles and the computer is still saying it is "not ready" so therefore it will not pass inspection until the reading states it is in the "ready" mode. I want to know if anyone else has had this problem and if so how many miles did they drive before it finally passed inspection?

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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Https://s4.postimg.org/63tvnchkt/generic_drive_cycle.jpg
Click on the link.
You can try a generic drive cycle, see if it works?
I agree with old marine. I thought the subject was interesting.

Posted on Apr 25, 2017

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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It's not the battery itself that's the issue. When you disconnected the battery to replace it, you cleared all the data from the computer. The computer then runs a self test of all systems to determine that they are functioning properly. There are several systems to be tested, and until they pass the test, each system is classified 'not ready'. Some system tests are done very quickly, with only one 'drive cycle', and they become 'ready'. Some systems require multiple drive cycles, and take longer. For some vehicles, specific criteria have to be met. On my vehicle, before the vapor recovery system can be tested, the fuel tank has to be between 1/4 and 3/4 full.

Some testing stations (depending on state) require all systems to be 'ready'. Some require a specific number to be 'ready', e.g., seven of nine. Find out what the requirements are, and which systems still need to complete testing, then check with a dealer for your make/model to see what is required to complete testing for that (those) systems.

Posted on Apr 25, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Will not pass inpection, 5 sensors not ready--V6 3.0

Drive the car for 2 miles non-stop and take it to smog inspection WITH OUT TURNING OFF THE CAR!! the key is that the car goes threw the test while the engine is running ...

if the car is turned off ... u will have to repeat procedure ...

Posted on Apr 17, 2009

onyxvu
  • 74 Answers

SOURCE: Computer readiness will not reset. Will not pass insepection.

check all your fuses, there may also be a code about to set. the timeframe depends on your driving habits. or it could be the garage you are taking it to. ask them for a "drive cycle" printout. this is a form that explains the exact driving conditions for your vehicle to reset the monitors. you could also try taking it to autozone- they can tell you if it is ready or not.

Posted on May 26, 2009

  • 521 Answers

SOURCE: OBD CONNECTION 2000 NISSAN FRONTIER

if the scanner will not communicate with the ECm, First check all the fuses under the hood. If all is well, make sure you have the key on and not off or running. If all is good there then the computer for the car has taken a vacation on you and will need to be taken to the dealership for repair/re-programming.

Posted on Aug 10, 2009

gessneruk
  • 22 Answers

SOURCE: I have a problem with my 2001 Toyota sienna, took

If the "evap not ready" readiness monitor never clears and you keep getting P0440,P0441,P0446 type codes, then you have a problem with the evap system. You have already tried the gas cap (good start) but there are about 6 other things it can be from electrical VSV air valves (there are 3 of them, 2 under the hood, 1 near the charcoal cannister (behind fuel tank) to 2 air operated valves on the front of the same cannister. There is also an air line that goes to one of the electric VSV valves on the air cleaner under the hood. Several oil change places have been guilty of pullling these off and not reconnecting them.
We have a page with pictures of our experience,

http://www.findonefindall.com/toyota-sienna/toyota_sienna_evap_P0446.htm

Posted on Aug 28, 2009

  • 95 Answers

SOURCE: Car won't pass inspection due to catalyst and O2 senser not ready

O2 not ready could be that the sensor is not warm enough due to the engine not being warmed up, or the sensor's heating element not working. This would cause a richer air/fuel mixture showing a catalyst problem. If you are over 60,000 miles or so, it could be the O2 sensor, but you need to have it diagnosed before replacing the wrong part. Possibilities include a bad, fouled, or damaged sensor. The wiring could also be damaged by contact with road debris or the exhaust pipe. Leaking injectors can also produce a very rich mixture, but a good O2 sensor should be able to detect this and set a code. High oxygen content in the exhaust means unburned fuel because in combustion, the oxygen is used up. Good combustion leaves low oxygen in the exhaust. The oxygen sensor measures the oxygen content and lets the processor adjust the air/fuel ratio according to this reading and that of other sensors such as throttle position, mass air flow, coolant temperature, and ambient air temperature. The codes received at the inspection are basically the same ones used to diagnose the problem. There are dealer specific codes also used for repair. I really hope this helps. Please let me know if you need any more help. Thanks

Posted on Aug 29, 2009

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