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E2000 mazda tray top .weak fluid pressure from master ,fcylinder to caliper foot pedal does not pump up pressure enough to bleed caliper

Brake failure,upon inspection found blown flexible hose to caliper.put on new hose not enough fluid reaching caliper to fill chamber to bleed out air would this be a fault in the mastercylinder

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Yes it could be a bad master cylinder. But always remember when bleeding brakes. No matter what component on the brake system was changed. You ALWAYS bleed all four wheels and rule #2 ALWAYS bleed from furthest from the master cylinder first and work your way to the master cylinder. This ensures you remove all the air from the break system and not just move the air back and forth inside the lines. Try that. Hope this helps.

Posted on Nov 28, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1779 Answers

SOURCE: I just put new calipers

Did u bleed the master cylinder before u installed it? If not, you'll have to also bleed the rear brakes. starting w/ the bleeder the farthest away, to next greatest distance,etc til u get to the closest bleeder.
If u did bleed the master cyl. before installation, I'm wondering if u did the following:
have someone pump the brakes (3 times, don't mash the pedal to the floor, just gentle push no more than half way down 3 times, while holding pedal half way down 3rd pump, open bleeder, when fluid or air slows coming out, close bleeder, and repeat, until only clean fluid flows. And of course, don't let the fluid get too low in the master cyl, or you will **** in air and have to start all over. Let me know how you do. countrycurt0

Posted on Sep 28, 2008

SOURCE: 1994 ford explorer will not stop, I have replaced the brake pads,

I could be your brake booster which provides the power assist in your braking. The hissing would indicate a booster gone bad. With no booster it takes a lot of pedal pressure to get the braking you are used to.

Posted on May 03, 2009

  • 15 Answers

SOURCE: suzuki Vitara front brakes seizing intermitantely.

Be sure you have changed the break oil completely. Otherwise drain the hydraulic system and renew with correct type of oil. If you have a ABS system you have to check that also.

Posted on Jul 20, 2009

mechanicsonl
  • 431 Answers

SOURCE: audi a3 break failure

i would say yes to replacing master cylinder, or check vacuum

Posted on Feb 09, 2012

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91' Mazda B2600i I have replaced pads, master cylinder and one front caliper that was bad. Have bleed brakes a lot went through 2 large bottles of brake fluid. Still no brakes. What do I do now?


It is possible you got a bad master cylinder--even new parts can be bad. Are you following correct bleeding procedure? Starting with right rear, then left rear, right front then left front? Using a helper to pump the pedal slowly then hold to the floor as you open bleed screw, watch for bubbles then close it before pedal is released? Top up fluid often and insure it never gets low enough to suck in air? I once got a "new" master that had no check valve installed.

Aug 15, 2016 | Mazda Cars & Trucks

4 Answers

The brake pedal goes to the floor, its ok after its pumped a couple times. it was inspected a couple weeks ago, theres no leaks and the master is full of fluid. seems like air in the system


Hi would seem like the internal seals in the master cylinder are letting fluid past, If after you have pumped it a couple of times if you just rest your foot on the peddle with slight pressure will it slowly go to the floor this is a sure sign, You need to replace or recondition the master cylinder

Jun 02, 2014 | 2002 Kia Spectra

1 Answer

How to bleed brakes


to bleed brakes is a relatively easy job for two people although it can be done by one without a pressure bleeder.NOTE keep brake fluid levels above minimum at all times during bleeding ( forgot to do it my self on more than one occasion and had to start over, trying to do too much at once) To do by your self you will need the correct ring spanner for bleed nipple, a clear tube that is a tight fit on bleed nipple ( long enough to reach down to floor) and a container with about an inch of brake fluid in it (glass jar will do it, is easier to see fluid level), Starting with the cylinder/caliper at rear furtherts from master cyl (longest brake line from tee piece) place spanner on bleeder then fit tube, placing other end of tube into container below level of fluid,. release master cyl cap/lid (no need to remove completely) undo bleeder half a turn, watch for fluid in clear tube. this should start to flow within 10 to 15 seconds (if bleeder isn't blocked with road grime clean if required), if fluid doesn't flow by it self (it should but) tighten bleeder then release again quarter of a turn, apply foot pressure to brake pedal, hold pressure on pedal till you feel pedal dropping towards the floor (half inch of pedal travel should be enough) ( fluid in container will stop air being drawn into brake lines when you release brake pedal) check clear tube for fluid/bubbles, open bleeder further quarter turn, if fluid has filled clear tube allow fluid to fill container a further eight of an inch, then close off bleeder (make sure no bubbles appear in tube whilst this is happening other wise drain more fluid till only brake fluid is visible in tube ) repeat process on opposite wheel cyl/caliper, then repeat process on front caliper furthest from master cyl , then the caliper closest to master cyl last. If two people are doing the bleeding the same clear tube and container are used,as is the order in which cyl/calipers are bled. One sits in the car and pumps the pedal until it has some resistance under foot (Whilst the pedal is held down) second person releases bleeder, first person keeps pressure on pedal whilst bleeder is released (pedal will travel towards the floor) when pedal has been depressed as far as it will travel second person closes bleeder before, the first person releases pedal and pumps the pedal again repeating the process until no air bubbles appear in clear tube at this cyl/caliper before moving to next cyl/caliper. good communication must be maintained to make this process hassle free

Jun 22, 2012 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

2 Answers

Replaced master cylinder and wheel cylinders, bleed master cylinder and put all back together. Started bleeding brakes. Cant get any pressure at pedal what should I try?


First bench bleed the master cylinder. Or if its still on the car do this, have some one pump the pedal hold and open one line,do this three times, move to the next line pump three time hold and open the line. Hows the pedal. getting firmer no go ahead bleed as usual. let me know we can fix this together

Apr 22, 2011 | Volkswagen Beetle Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Tried to bleed brakes after replacing caliper-no brake fluid will flow out- is the master cylinder the problem?


Well, if you change a caliper or a brake line the fluid in the master cylinder should remain, even if the fluid leaks out.

However, if you are having trouble bleeding regularly, then use a vacuum pump with a 'can' or use a pressure bleeder (I prefer this method) that costs about $55 or so available on the Internet.

If you use a pressure bleeder, you'll need an extra master cylinder cap that has a hole drilled in it to accomodate the fittings of the pressure bleeder.

I know someone who had a Lincoln Continental that changed a brake line and had trouble bleeding it, and they used a vacuum pump and it bled easily using that method.

Some cars require that when you change the master cylinder, a brake scan tool is required to bleed the master cylinder that has air in it. But, if you did not replace the master cylinder, you should be able to use either the vacuum or pressure method to bleed the brakes easily.

Good luck on this repair.

Dec 18, 2010 | GMC Sierra 1500 Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Brake fluid is not going thru on new calipers. got new calipers from napa not dealer.


did u bleed the brakes ? there could be an air bubble causing blockage

Sep 29, 2010 | 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 Answers

Got a 94' chevy 1500 having brake problems, and replaced the master cylinder and bled the lines. but the pedal is still not working right, the pedal when pushed with the truck running will just go to the...


With he engine running your pedal action is assisted greatly by the brake servo. The servo is a large diaphragm that is acted on by the suction delivered by a vacuum line from the the intake manifold. The fact that the pedal goes to the floor when the engine is running just shows how much assistance the engine suction provides to your foot pressure. It is obvious that you still have air in your system. I would suggest that you top up the master reservoir, start your engine and pump the brakes quickly until you feel some hard back pressure. This will ensure that the brake pistons have been fully extended. Starting with the most remote caliper (right rear) bleed off about half a pint of fluid. Ensure that no air is allowed to **** back in via the bleed nipple at any time. Refill the master reservoir. Next the left rear caliper, bleed off about a quarter of a pint. Refill reservoir. Bleed off a about quarter of pint from both front brakes. This should sort it out.

May 13, 2010 | 1994 Chevrolet C1500

1 Answer

Changed rear caliper on 98 blazer and now have no brake pressue at either rear wheel? Did before I changed calipers. Tried to bleed the brakes but get very little fluid out and it is slow, no pressure?


Hi,
Have someone pump the brake pedal and hold foot pressure it. Loosen the bleeder screw and air or fluid should shoot out... it's under pressure. Tell the person to not lift up on the pedal until you tighten the bleeder, or they'll draw air back into the line. They'll feel the pedal go down to the floor. Keep applying pedal pressure till the bleeder is tightened. Repeat the process till all air is out. They will have a "good pedal" shortly.
Do each wheel, and remember to refill the master cylinder as you lose fluid.
Hope this helps... Good luck!

Oct 16, 2009 | 1997 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

2 Answers

Brake pedal still goes to floor 2000 GMC Jimmy


It's very possible to be the master cylinder, the o-rings on the piston could be worn, letting the fluid seep back through instead of getting full pressure through the lines. Could also be the brake booster.
Try changing the master cylinder first, which is cheaper and easier, and see if there is a difference, you'll need to bleed the brakes again.
To check the booster,
With the engine off, pump the brakes until the pedal is hard, then hold pressure on the brake pedal and listen for air escaping, or the pedal goes slowly to the floor, Do that after the master cylinder has been changed, at least that will be eliminated.

Sep 15, 2009 | 2000 GMC Jimmy

2 Answers

Bleeding abs brakes


Try using a pressure bleeder. It will force the air out. Works every time.

Nov 08, 2008 | 2001 Ford Mustang

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