Question about 1988 Chevrolet K1500

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1988 Chevy 1500 350 dies under acceleration

Starts and idles fine get it out on the road and starts to die. Restarts after you let it set for 20-30 seconds and you can go a bit and then dies again. Voltage gage on dash is varying between 12-14 volts when running but when you turn the key on it shows low voltage. Checked battery and alternator and both function fine. Wondering if I have a short. Getting ready to go get a new cap wires and plugs and fuel filter to try and cover bases any other suggestions.

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Hi
Replace the thermostat, if that does not cure the issue you have a slight head gasket leak. I am a retired Ford dealer tech and this is what I have found causes this issue.

Posted on Jan 10, 2009

  • ABHISHEK.C
    ABHISHEK.C Jan 10, 2009

    anything want to ask clarify it 

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Need to check the EGR valve, It sounds like it is opening to soon.

Posted on Jan 10, 2009

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Well to start with, did you have your battery load tested????if it has a low voltage when you first turn key on you could have a bad cell in battery but alternator shows 12-14 volts when vehicle is running...Well if no other accessories are on and volts are fluctuating it sounds like a battery issue and would stall vehicle when volts drop due to fuel injection requiring constant voltage for vehicle to run....It sounds as if you maintain your vehicle but I would isolate the present problem before adding more variables adding to the possible solution....If your battery happens to be fine then yes ,, fuel filter would be my first thing if not done rcently, On one occasion I have encountered a faulty fuel pump when vehicle warms up so dont rule that out either...Good Luck and I hope this helps you...Let me know if I can help anyfurther

Posted on Jan 10, 2009

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  • David Quesenberry
    David Quesenberry Jan 10, 2009

    Your vehicle has fuel injection so it requires constant voltage to run do not rely on battery cable removal test this only works on carb. vehicles..

  • David Quesenberry
    David Quesenberry Jan 10, 2009

    would not be the torque converter locking up cause you say you get it out on the road and then it dies

  • David Quesenberry
    David Quesenberry Jan 10, 2009

    Please rate my answer it really helps with future diagnostics thanks!!!!

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Put the new cap wires and plugs and fuel filter away for a sec.

quick test that should be done outside ..in a well ventilated area. and put on safety goggles too. loosen the battery cable and start the vehicle... remove the battery cable... if the car dies... it's the alternator... if it doesn't it's the battery.

Robert

Posted on Jan 10, 2009

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The problem MAY (educated guess) be a problem with the torque converter lockup clutch solenoid not releasing correctly. This would allow the engine to run normally in park and neutral, but the drive train would be locked into direct drive when you shift into gear, not slipping as it should, causing the engine to die instantly. Sometimes this can be diagnosed by unplugging the solenoid, in which case the transmission would work normally except the clutch would not "lock up" as it normally does at higher speeds for greater efficiency. 

Posted on Jan 10, 2009

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One word, DON"T. Do you have a digital volt meter. If you do, please go live chat. Mobile mechanic for 5 years, 25 in automotive electronics. Please go live chat as there are several ting to check. If not, please rate this as helpful if you would. God bless.

Posted on Jan 10, 2009

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Check out the ignition switch.also check out the fuel pump.

Posted on Jan 10, 2009

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