Toyota 1994 corolla missing hesitating stalling out
Car has just turned 116k miles. Misses and stutters when you first take off
and sometimes it will go dead sitting at a red light. It only seems to
hestiate after you let off the gas and then slowly accelerate it will jump
and act as if it is not geting gas
I have replaced the plug and plug wires with toyota brand dealer did work,
Car has had the injectors cleaned recently new fuel filter also replaced
ignition coil. After all this work car worked good for about a 1k miles
now it has started doing the same thing again. The hestation does not
appear at high speeds and it is not backfiring. Any help would be
appreciated, oh also the timing belt was replace at 72k miles also the
manifold had a crack and it was just replaced
I have the same problem. My 94 Corolla stalls after warm up. We have replaced the idle control valve, wires, plugs, cap and rotor button. Mechanic strength fuel cleaner and the ICV have smoothed the running but the stall and miss return after the engine is warm. No other diagnosis codes are coming up on computer.
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Re: Toyota 1994 corolla missing hesitating stalling out
Hi and welcome to FixYa,
Initially, it would appear that there are 2 identical problems. Offhand, a couple of ideas to explore, consider or try:
have the car scanned (if so equipped). A small number of 94 & 95 cars
are OBD II compliant. Pls check the Vehicle Emission
Control Information (VECI) label normally under the hood, near
the radiator. There would be a "OBD II
certified"and elsewhere a "common" 16 pin Data Link Connector
have a compression test;
consider a major tuneup other than what has been performed or if it has been done yet.
Additionally, you may want to focus on the air system and/or check the fuel pressure.
Pls post back result(s). Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.
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Given that the condition only occurs now when the AC is active, I would say the issue is likely with the AC. If the compressor is bad, or there is some other issue causing resistance with the AC system, it can really load the engine and drag it down. Also, the AC compressor uses a lot of electrical current which can load the system as well, making the engine work harder. Try disconnecting the connector to the AC compressor clutch and see if the problem still persists. If it goes away, you know your problem is with the AC system. Honestly, by the sound of things, you might be better off without the AC in that vehicle if that's what it comes to. AC systems are often more expensive than people expect to repair. Not to mention there are a lot of components to the system and you need specialized equipment, and sometimes a special license to work on it. For those reasons I don't recommend the DIY do AC work themselves. written by EricCG press the helpful button and check links below
Engine missing is a vast subject and calls for number of things to examine. What are the problem symptoms? Is it concerned with one or more of the following?
- Rough idle, stalls or misses.
- Engine hesitates/ poor acceleration.
- Engine diesels (runs after ignition switch is turned off).
- Muffler explosion (after fire) on deceleration only.
- Engine backfires.
- Engine rattles at idle speed only.
- Engine rattles at all speeds.
Please mention if there is some other symptom.
mine did the same thing and it was oxygen sensor since engine light came on there should be an error code on computer.Get a diagnostic checker or take to a garage and have them hook uo to the diag connector. I bought a diagnostic checker few years ago and it has come in very handy sure hope this helps!!
I had the same problem. I replaced the crank shaft position sensor and it solved my problem. It would stall at intersections and while under light acceleration. It also caused loss of cruise control and a stutter when at highway speeds. Replaced crank sensor and its been running solid for 5,000 miles. $125 fix self installed.
I would look at the fuel delivery system. Change the fuel filter if it hasn't been done lately. Also get the fuel pressure checked. I don't have the specs but it could be that your fuel pump is getting worn and occasionally has trouble pumping enough fuel to the carb. It's also possible that your carb may need to be overhauled. They do wear and get build up in the pasages over time. Also check to see if your warm air valve in the air cleaner is working. It is possible that your carb is icing up in the cold weather and it is more likely to happen at highway speed.
If you need to get the carb overhauled take it to a shop that specializes in this type of work. You will be glad you did when you get it back.
Hope this helps.
I have a similar problem with one of my Toyota Corollas. It's a 95 model with the 1.8L engine (7A-FE, automatic). But unlike yours, it has plenty of power while running. Here's what it does. Occasionally the engine misses. Sometimes it will die. This is most likely to happen when you start the car and put it in reverse and start rolling without giving the engine time to adjust. I've been told by some customers that it will die sometimes when coming to a stop. But this has never happened when I drive it. I don't think it's a fuel issue because the car runs just fine when it's running.
Here's what I've tried so far:
Replaced spark plugs and wires.
Used gasoline additive fuel injector cleaner.
Checked air filter.
Checked vacuum hoses for leaks.
Replaced PCV valve and hoses.
Cleaned the air intake and throttle body with carburetor cleaner.
So far there is no change in the problem.
What I plan to do next:
Check the throttle position sensor.
Check the MAF sensor.
Adjust the idle via the set screw.
After that I have no idea what to do next if the problem persists. The check engine light is not on so I don't think there are any error codes. Will let you know.