Question about 1994 Chevrolet Beretta
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I'm having the same problem with my 2006 Chevy 2500 duramax...The humming starts at 25mph and then gets less prominent and then at 50mph it gets more prominent and louder, then at 60mph you can hardly hear it.....I did notice a little bit of leakage where the front axel meets the from diff on the drivers side.
Posted on Aug 09, 2008
SOURCE: Front End Noise, Chev Cavalier
It sounds like you have a bad c v or constant velocity joint. Look under the car next to the wheel look for a rubber accordian type unit, if the rubber is torn or lose the grease has escaped and damaged the joint. You can replace it yourself, but if your not mechanically inclined would say take it to a shop.
Posted on Mar 05, 2009
Get your truck up in a rack and take a look at the drive shaft, the differential, the u joints and the ball joints. Regards, joe
Posted on Nov 19, 2009
On the full size, the front actuator is electric, not vacuum.
When in 4wd mode, a switch on top of the transfer case conducts 12 volts out to the actuator. Wire #50 (brown) is the 12v feed, and it conducts to the light blue wire (#900) to the actuator.
When shifted out of 4wd, the switch opens up and no voltage goes to the actuator.
Check voltage at the connector for the front actuator (at the front differential - it looks like a large bullet that threads into the front diff.) If it has 12 volts, the actuator is the problem. If it does not have 12 volts, check the transfer case switch and the power feed to the transfer case.
I'll assume it is the actuator, if the plug to the actuator is getting 12 volts when in 4wd.
The way this actuator works, is it is a sealed chamber that gets heated by voltage. When it heats, the pin in the end swells and pushes a shift fork in the front differential. The shift fork engages a spline on the passenger side of the differential, and boom! you have 4WD.
GM offered an upgrade to this actuator that is a motor instead of a heated device. However, it requires a small harness addition, a spacer, and a new actuator. It is about a $150 to $200 option.
Good luck. The actuator is usually the problem 90% of time but recheck all of the wire harness just to maker sure there is no short before replacing any parts. The actuator may not be fully engaged or disengaged and the fork to the spline may be what is causing the grinding.
88-UP C/K ACTUATOR UPGRADE
VEHICLE SERVICED: 1994 CHEVROLET FULL SIZE
PURPOSE: IMPROVE AXLE CONNECT ENGAGEMENT TIME AND
SYMPTOMS: NO FRONT DRIVE AXLE ENGAGEMENT WHEN SHIFTED
If the grinding is only when you apply the brakes, then it's going to be replacing the break pads and rotors and may be the brake caliper if it's damaged from the worn out brake pads. Please keep me posted, be glad to know you got your Tahoe running 100%
Posted on Jan 11, 2010
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