Please can anyone help. i have found the soleniod for the glowplugs and tested them by linking out from the battery and work fine. I have no feed from the ignition to the soleniod. Is there a relay or fuse for this system. If so where is this located.
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With a Diesel there are additional parts that you have which affect the Cold start. There is a timer between the glowplugs and the Power relay on the start circuit. The timer cycles the glowplugs off/on for a variable time period. The more cold, the longer the cycle period. Glowplugs go bad. You remove them like sparkplugs. Testing them is a matter of comparison. When power is applied they can melt, so test with care. Hook battery jump cables to each glowplug taking care to attach one lead to the base (avoiding the threads) and then briefly touch the top of the glowplug. The quicker the plug glows, the better it is. The darker, the worse it is. But the timer must provide the juice to the glowplug for it to work. A bad timer will not properly heat the glowplugs. The timer must get its' power from the Power relay. So you can have acceptable glowplugs, and a bad timer. Ultimately once the engine cylinders have run hot enough, a Diesel fires by compression and not by spark as a gas motor does. That is why once you have a hot diesel, it will start freely. It is why I explained the needs of a Cold Diesel engine and I hope this helps you.
If this is a diesel, the glowplugs are in the heads similar to how sparkplugs are installed.
You should first check several other parts. The glowplugs get their power from a Timer. The Timer sometimes is combined with a power relay or the power relay is separate. The power relay is turned on by a signal from the Ignition switch.
So if the Timer, Power Relay, or power feed off the Ignition switch, is defective, the glowplugs will not work.
Check one of the wires to the glowplugs with a Voltmeter. The Timer will send several pulses to the glowplugs and then need to cool off.
The glowplugs only work for a few minutes for the initial start.
If the above parts are good, then check the glowplugs by removing and using battery jumper cables.
Clamp one to the base of the glowplug avoiding the threads, then briefly touch the top of the glowplug with the other polarity jumper.
Caution--you can melt them. Just observe if one stays dark longer than another. A dark glowplug is bad, a bright glowplug is good. Its all relative.
This is not to hard to solve. The outside airtemp determines how long the Glowplug timer works for absolute cold starts. Starting a warm engine is affected by underhood temps.
The Timer Relay will pulse power to the glowplugs. If the glowplugs are good, it is enough to preheat the cylinder for firing.
To tell if a glowplug is good is a matter of comparision between a new glowplug and a worn glowplug. YOU CAN MELT A GLOWPLUG WITH THIS TEST, but you remove the glowplugs, get a set of battery jumper cables and place one jumper to the base of the glowplug USING CARE not to ruin the threads on the glowplug.
You do not want to arc the spark on the glowplug threads. You want your fixed jumper connector locked on the base of the glowplug. The other battery cable jumper is touched to the top of the glowplug where the arcing occurs. This will not hurt the contact point if done properly.
You compare the "glow" of the old glowplug to the "glow" of the new glowplug. Bad glowplugs stay dark or operate at a darker color.
The Timer Relay gives you pulses and that is all the glowplugs get to heat up. This is what you simulate in your test. If a glowplug operates in a dull or dark condition, it is bad and throw it away. You want all glowplugs to readily light up when power is applied.
The other 2 parts to the system are the Timer Relay and the Power Relay. The timer gets its power from the Power Relay and the Power Relay is like a starter solenoid. The Power relay gets a tickler charge when the keyswitch is held to Start.
There are sometimes extreme cold Timers that hold the power longer tothe glowplugs. I do not have the Specs to tell you if your Timer is kicking out to soon.
I hope my solution helps. I have told you how to test your glowplugs. The timers are affected by air temperature and that makes it difficult to say if it is working long enough. If you know the glowplugs are good, and the timer shuts off before the glowplugs heat up, then you need a new or different type of timer.
Hello, The diesel engine relies on Glowplugs for the first start in the Morning or a cold start at anytime.
The Glowplugs themselves can be bad, but there is a Timer which determines how long the Glowplugs will stay on. Before the Timer is a Glowplug Relay which gives the Timer its power to operate. The Ignition switch provides power to the Glowplug Relay.
You disconnect a Glowplug wire, put on a test instrument (either a testlight or Voltmeter) and look to see what happens when you initiate a start. If the testlight lights and cycles a few times like a pulse, then the power supply is good. If not inspect the Timer and Glowplug Relay for continuity
If all the pulses seem to reach the Glowplugs, then most likely the Glowplugs are worn out. Test by removing then and connecting battery jumpers. Briefly touch the top terminal of the Glowplug with the Hot cable after grounding the negative cable on the base of the Glowplug, avoiding the threads.
You can melt a Glowplug. But if you find the Glowplug staying dark, then it is bad. Do this for all the Glowplugs and replace the bad ones. Remember the Glowplug only has the amount of time the Timer gives it to work. So if a few pulses do not make it Glow, then replace it. This should fix you up.
Hello, I operated a Ford diesel through Michigan Winters. There are usually issues with the Glowplug Timer or the Power Relay to it. If not that, then you probably have a bleeddown issue in the fuel system.
If you trace the wires off the Glowplugs, it will lead to the Glowplug Timer and then the next part is the Glowplug Power Relay. If you take off one Glowplug wire and put the Hot lead of a Voltmeter or test light on the wire and ground the other testing device terminal you can test it.
Just place the testing device where you can see it or have a helper observe it. Then try a normal startup. The test equipment should show that power is going through the wire. The power should pulse a few times and then stop. If you have NO power at that point, you need to follow the wiring I mentioned earlier and find out where the power stops. That part should be the bad part. You want to restore power to the Glowplugs.
If the wires to the Glowplugs have power, there is the remote possibility the Glowplugs are burned out. To test them yourself, they can be removed and connected to jumper cables and briefly energized. The Glowplugs that stay dark are bad.
The fuel system is another matter. First try a new fuel filter to replace a water clogged filter. It is also beneficial to find that fuel is in the fuel filter and that it is not dry. If the fuel filter is dry, then you most likely are bleeding off your fuel overnight. This will require testing the fuel line by using either a Vacuum tester or air compressor and removing and plugging one line end. The line should not leak.
Diesels absolutely require the Glowplugs to work and they work shorter periods in hot temperatures. You just have the pulses to heat up the Glowplugs. So if the Glowplugs are weak, it will show up in hot weather too.
As for the Injection pump, there are Electric solenoids in some which sometimes respond to a "tap" to get them going again. This will mean pump repair to finally repair it. A Diesel shop can also measure output pressure, which , I want to say can be 1300PSI. Beyond the capability of an Owner to do himself.
I hope this helps you and I would be very interested to know what you found.
Hello, Most likely your Glowplug Relay is bad, and it supplies power to the Glowplug Timer which also may be bad.
Just follow the wires that are on the Glowplugs up to the Glowplug timer. Use a Voltmeter and check if the power wire that goes into this Timer has fire when the Ignition is turned to the RUN position. If there is fire going into the Timer from the power Relay, pull off one of the Glowplug wires and ground 1 end of a testlight and put the other end on the Glowplug wire.
The Timer itself will kill the power after a predetermined time based on Temperature. The colder the engine, the longer the Glowplugs stay lit. If you have power reaching the Glowplug, your power Relay is fine. You just have to observe how quick the Timer stays on.
The Glowplugs only have 1 or 2 chances to do their job at the Start-up. They are needed to make a Diesel start cold. Cold meaning at outside AIR temperature, and engine block temperature. There should be clicks under the hood and the lights should flicker in rhythm to the clicks if the Timer is working.
If you find that both the Timer and Power Relay are working, the Glowplugs need to be tested. They come out like sparkplugs. But you test them either on a special machine or use battery jumper cables. To test, hook one battery cable to the Glowplug base, avoiding the thread. Then take the other cable and arc it on the top of the Glowplug.
Caution, you can melt the Glowplug. If you get a bright glow, the Glowplug is good. If the Glowplug is dark or very slow to glow, it is bad. This should be all you need. Would appreciate a note after you fix it.
Hello, Its just like changing sparkplugs. First, you should check the timer for proper operation before blaming the glowplugs. The timer is the part where the wires on the glowplugs come from. Its' the Timers job to heat up the glowplugs and there is a Relay which activates the timer.
Once the Timer gets power from the Relay, it sends spark to the glowplugs and measures the amount of juice flowing through the glowplugs. When a predetermined limit is achieved, the Timer shuts down and sets a light on the dashboard that you can start the engine.
If you have a bad glowplug, that cylinder will not fire cold and the engine will miss, run rough , and spew black smoke out the tailpipe. A complete changeout of the glowplugs will solve the problem, but individual glowplugs can be tested and changed independently at a lower cost.
To test a glowplug, you can use jumper cables and apply voltage to the glowplug in limited amounts or you will melt the glowplug. Best to place the negative on the base and avoid the threads. Then touch the top of the glowplug and watch to see how quick it turns bright. Its a matter of comparison, and the darker the glowplug stays, the worse it is.
There is no adjustment on the glowplug, just swap them out and you will be fine. I hope my solution is very helpful to you. You can check the Timer with a voltmeter by removing a glowplug wire and hooking the hot lead from your meter and grounding the other wire on your engine. When you turn the key to the warmup position, the meter should briefly show power.
Its either one of 2 things. A shorted glowplug is backfeeding and shutting off the timer or the timer is bad. You should start by removing the glowplugs and testing them.
The glowplugs can melt with this test so don't overdo it. Use a set of battery jumper cables and put the NEG on the metal case without damaging the threads. Then take the POS cable and touch the top of the glowplug. Its a matter of comparision. A dark glowplug is cold or dead. When you get a good one you will see an intense glow. Replace the bad ones.
After reinstalling the glowplugs try starting your car. If it still does not work well trace all of the glowplug wires up to a timer box. There should be a Power source going into the Timer. Measure the Voltage going to the Timer. If it is less than Battery Voltage follow the Power wire to a Relay. The Relay may be in the blackbox full of Relays under the hood or independently hung next to the Timer. Sometimes thoughtful Engineers put labels under the lid for each component. Check the plugin sockets for corrosion or replace the Relay for the glowplug Timer.
If you had battery Voltage at the Timer most likely the Timer is bad. The Timer should keep your glowplugs on longer the colder the outside temperature is. The exception is a warm engine. Good luck on your repair. I hope you find my solution very helpful.
You should check the Glowplug Timer. Most likely it is the Timer because the Diesels need the Glowplugs working to start. Then they fire from compression.
So even though the Starting Fluid reached the cylinders and the Fluid has a better Ignition point, it still needs hot Glowplugs.
You can check a few wires on the Glowplugs by using a voltmeter or Test light. Unplug each wire and then turn the key to On and observe if the Tester pulses a few times before your Ready Indicator goes out on the dash. If the Timer is not firing the Glowplug, test the power wire TO the timer. There should be a Relay for it.
You can jump the Power lead to the Timer and let the Timer heat the Glowplugs. Remove the jumper after the "Clicking" stops. Then repeat. Now hit it with a spray of Starting Fluid and see if she will run.
Then backtrack the Power wire to the Relay and see if the Relay is getting power. There could be a fusible link to the Relay that is burned out.
Would be interested to learn what you found. Autozone and Oreillys can sometimes pull up locations for the components they sell.
I would test the glowplugs themselves...Just hook a test light to the positive side of your battery and touch the probe to the top of the glowplug. It should ground out through the glowplug and turn the light on. If it doesn't then you have a bad glowplug.