Question about 1999 Isuzu Rodeo
Posted by Anonymous on
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There are two drain plugs on the bottom of the pan. remove the lower one to drain the trans fluid. To refill, use a pump and pump the fluid into the upper drain plug until it seeps out and re-install the plug, similar to refilling a manual trans.
Once this is done, Start the vehicle and run it for about 3 minutes, shifting through all gears (do not drive vehicle Remove the upper drain plug and let any excess fluid drain out. Done. This is as per Mitchell OnDemand.
Posted on Aug 14, 2008
Well, as you said, Isuzu engineers are not the brightest. We are in the process of trying to figure out how the oil got full of water! If anyone has experience in the 3.2 V6 2000 model and where the likely failed spot for the cooling system is, I'm all ears.
To your problem, the thermostat housing is located under the intake manifold, yes under it. You will have to remove the intake and fuel injection system (lots of fun) to get at the hard pipe lines under and in the front of the engine. Once there removal and replacement of the thermostat is easy.
Posted on Jan 27, 2009
You didn't say whether you had a V6 engine or a 4cyl. Here is the procedure for a V6.
It sounds like he moved the cam shaft independently of the crankshaft or other camshaft so you will need to do all these procedures:
1. Turn the crankshaft until the mark on the spocket is lined up with the mark on the oil pump housing (the mark is on the driver's side at 90 degrees to the sprocket itself).
2. Back off the crankshaft counterclockwise 1/8 turn to ensure the pistons aren't at top dead center. This gives the valves room to move without hitting the piston.
3. Turn the passenger's side camshaft until it "jumps" into place with the alignment mark on the camshaft pully is pretty close to being lined up with the mark on the engine head.
4. Turn the driver's side camshaft until it "jumps" into place but this won't be perfectly lined up with the mark but will be about an 1/8 turn off from the mark. Then line it up by hand.
5. The idler pulleys and tensioner pulleys should be installed on the engine but the tenioner pulley adjuster (it is a little cylinder with a rod coming out of it that is held in place by 2 bolts) should be removed.
6. Place the new belt on the crankshaft first. Be sure the arrows on the belt point in a clockwise direction. If you have a belt with lines and dots then the lines will line up with all markings that you have lined up together. The dots should line up at the 270 degree point on the crankshaft (opposite of the lines and the markings).
7. Loop the belt around the tensioner pulley, around the passenger's side cam, under the waterpump, around the driver's side cam, and finally around the idler pulley. Check all alignments.
8. Put the tesioner adjuster in a vise and squeeze it together until you can place a small drill bit or allen wrench through the holes to keep it compressed.
9. This is the tricky part. You will need to install the tensioner adjuster and that will require some moving of the belt to allow enough play to get the adjuster in place. This may move the passenger's side alignment. If so, you will need to try it again. I find that if you move passenger's side alignment mark clockwise by one tooth of the sprocket, then when you go to put the tensioner in place it lines up. You may find other tricks to overcome this challenge.
10. Once you think you have everything lined up. Use a wrench to turn the crankshaft sprocket 2 full turns. Listen closely and feel for any hard resistance as you do this to determine if the pistons are hitting the valves. If you believe they are hitting each other thenrepeat the adjustment procedure. Not doing this can ruin the valves or more.
11. If everything seems OK. remove the drill bit or allen wrench from the tension adjuster. Perform step 10 again for one final check.
I hope this helps.
Posted on Feb 22, 2009
Remove belt, fan, fan shroud and fan bracket. Remove timing covers, timing belt and water pump. Replace timing belt and the hydraulic tensioner with new ones. I suggest you get a mechanic to do this as you can easly get it out of time. Not an easy job.
Posted on Jul 03, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Sep 22, 2014 | 2003 Isuzu Rodeo
Sep 13, 2014 | 2003 Isuzu Rodeo
May 03, 2014 | 2003 Isuzu Rodeo
Apr 11, 2013 | 2001 Isuzu Rodeo
Feb 13, 2011 | 2003 Isuzu Rodeo Sport
Feb 07, 2010 | 2001 Isuzu Rodeo
Aug 04, 2009 | 2003 Isuzu Rodeo
Jun 27, 2009 | 2003 Isuzu Rodeo
Jul 13, 2008 | 1992 Isuzu Rodeo
131 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!