Question about 1997 Honda Accord
I have had my 97 Honda Accord SE for about 3 yrs and from day one check engine light on constant. Then soon after getting the car I noticed it spits and sputters and jerks (almost as if trans is slipping) when I get up between 55 and 65 MPH. a year ago I had Autozone put it on computer ( handheld tool) to see what is wrong. Guy said that the car was only running on two cylinders ( which means needs plugs and wires he said.) and the EGR Valve was bad. ( I did not change EGR Valve at this point due to the price - they wanted $ 219.00 for it! So 10 months ago I gathered the fuel filter, pcv valve, oil filter, oil, air filter, spark plugs and wires, and proceeded to help my brother do a tune up on it. He couldnt get the old fuel filter off. where the metal line connects to the filter is stuck solid. So we did the rest of the work and left old fuel filter on. Spitting and Sputtering stopped. I was pleased! But now, the spitting and sputtering around at 55 - 65 MPH starts back up a week or two ago. Now Thanksgiving day my lil family went out of town in this car and nearly didnt make it home! It has started acting like it isnt getting enough fuel. When we take off from stop lights it gets pretty bad. And the Check Engine Light started BLINKING! I had never seen it do that! I am wondering could a bad EGR Valve cause the plugs and wires to burn up faster?
It may have fouled your plugs, but you can tke them out and clean them. Use a small blade and scrape the carbon off.
You could also take the egr valve off and try to clean it. Use a wire brush. also clean as best you can the passages under the valve, they can get plugged with carbon. Use a new gasket when you bolt the egr valve back down. Keep trying to get the fuel filter off, but the egr cleaning should help.
Posted on Nov 27, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
A check on the spark plugs of the 2nd and 3rd cylinder must tell the story. If you see there is a dirty plug, oil soaked or badly burnt we need to check on the firing and fuel delivery.
First of all check for compression if there is oil smearing, it can be due to weak oil rings or compression rings or a faulty bore in case the engine has clocked a great deal.
Also check the valve settings before the firing - spark intensity of the 2nd and 3rd plugs are confiremed. Check the HT wires to the plugs as you have checked the remaining sections. I hope this must give an indication of the lurking fault.
Posted on Oct 05, 2011
it could be that the air filter housing is worn and thats why they said you needed a new one what that means is that you are getting to much air into the engine and will cause check engine light to come on i would replace that and then see if it goes off and then if not go to a auto zone and they check the light and see what it is and then go from there
Posted on Jul 19, 2009
Have a tech find out the code. Its probably the distributor. If it has never been changed out, its the likely source. Had the same problem intermitently for about 2 months. The I took the negative off the batter to do something and put it back on. The car started but rough and the check engine stayed on from that point on. I took it in and they told me it was a code 8, which is the top dead center position sensor, which is a part of the distributor. Can't change it separately, have to swap out the distributor. Checkers has a the best buy on that 178 for the 1U and 189 for the 18U includes cap and rotor. Anyway, hope this helps.
Posted on Feb 09, 2010
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