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2004 mg zt cdti-heater not working

Heat not being blown out of vents when blower switch is activated

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  • david hoult Nov 30, 2012

    My problem is that the heater fan is not working

  • Layne Johnson
    Layne Johnson Dec 01, 2012




1 Answer

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  • 379 Answers

Make sure you have coolant in the radiator not enough coolant and the coolant wont make it to your heater core but if your radiator is full of coolant then you might have a bad thermostat if the temperature gauge is been running low then you have a bad thermostat but if your temperature gauge is good then check your heater control valve its usually by the firewall lastly when the cars running and its the heaters on then touch the 2 heater hoses and feel to see witch ones heat up if only one hose or no hose do then the heater core is clogged up

Posted on Nov 27, 2012


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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 2000 s-10 the blower works but no heat comes out the vent. where do i start?

First thing to check is the coolant level. The heater is the lowest priority of the cooling system so if there isn't enough coolant, none will flow through the heater core. If the radiator is full, the next thing to check is coolant flow through the heater core. The easiest way is simply by "feel" and here's how: Open the hood and identify the heater hoses by locating the two smaller coolant hoses that attach to ports at the fire wall. Once you identify them, start the engine and allow it to warm up to normal operating temperature. (195 to 200 degrees F or just under 100 degrees C) Now turn off the engine and feel the two hoses one at a time as close to the fire wall as possible. If one is warm or hot and the other is cool or cold then there is an obstruction in the heater core. If there is an obstruction in the heater core, you can usually back-flush it and clear it out. To back flush it you have to identify coolant flow direction, if you have identified a cold hose with the previous test, then that's the coolant outlet of the heater core, to back-flush, you would force water into the outlet, and watch for the obstruction to be blown-out of the inlet. Usually garden hose pressure is sufficient, but don't apply more force than the pressure maximum specified on the radiator cap! (Usually 15-17 PSI) You can burst a heater core with too much pressure, then you'll enjoy all the fun of removing the entire dash panel from your vehicle so that you can access the heater core case. If it is totally clogged up there may be no hope of clearing the obstruction, and replacement will become necessary.(which makes dash panel removal necessary too!) If the heater core is not obstructed and both hoses are the same temperature, the climate control system is not directing airflow through the heater core. The air diverter door may be cable or servo-electrically operated. Again access to the heater case may become necessary to service the air diverter doors. ( I wouldn't recommed anyone other than a skilled professional for dash panel removal and replacement because there are a lot of nuts, bolts, screws wiring connectors, vaccum hoses and possibly cables to deal with, not to mention engine coolant and air conditioner refrigerant in cars with A/C! ) Good Luck!

Posted on Nov 02, 2008

  • 221 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 Ford F150 - AC/Heater blower speed 1 & 2 not working.

You might have a bad speed selector switch, or your blower motor resistor is faulty.

Posted on Mar 17, 2009

  • 179 Answers

SOURCE: blower vent selector switch not working

this is what is called a factory default. for safety purposes if there is a problem with the wiring in the climate control system it defaule to the defrost position so you can see out the window. this can be a pretty tough job, the whole dash may have to come off. unless you well versed in automotive diagnostics and troubleshooting, and have the right equipment, I would take it to a local automotive technician.

Posted on Jul 06, 2009

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