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4m41 engine starts and revs but cuts off at 1050 rpm wont idle hot or cold

Car has been apart because timing chain broke and has been running since and idled ok but was too far advanced now timing back at 4 degress it starts and revs even drives ko but not if you try to idle engine .any helpful ideas please. barry nz

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: '99 chevy Silverado Z71,5.3 engine.....will not rev when hot.....

try replacing your EGR Valve, or your Oxygen Sensor

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

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SOURCE: engine stalls after cold start-up & release from high speed idle

I had a similar problem.  I found the filter cartridge below the pcv valve had carboned up, and after the crank case pressurized, oil was forced out the pcv supply line to the throttle body.  The idle air control valve solenoid got oil in it and caused my problem, but only when it was cold.  The pcv cartridge is accessed by removing the pcv valve and the rubber fitting that the pcv valve mounts in.  It can then be fished out with a pick set, and it is a pain because you can't see it, but you can get you hand back there.  I hope this helps you.

Posted on Feb 28, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 98 Isuzu Trooper stalls on cold start, idle issues..

I had the same issue on my 99 Trooper.

It would usually start when completely cold, but idle around 2k RPM.
It would drive fine. But if I shut it down, ran into a store, and came back out, it would start but immediately idle.
Had to ride the gas a little to get it into gear.
The Check Engine light has been going on and off for 6 months or so.

I took this to my local trusted repair shop (no Isuzu dealers within 200 miles).
The diagnosed the light, and found that the Intake Gaskets were bad or leaking.
The idling problem was related to the car not being able to control the amount of air coming in.

They replaced the Intake gaskets by the next day, and I haven't had a problem since. And no more check engine light, which has been on half a year.

Here's some details from my bill:
(1) Intake Gasket set $107.95
Misc materials $21.00
2.1 hours of Labor

The total cost to me was $345.00, and I definately don't feel gipped.

Posted on Mar 06, 2009

outdoorsman5
  • 631 Answers

SOURCE: bmw e36 328i cuts out at idle,wont krank,runs rough at idle.

The battery could still be bad and if you don't have a totally good battery in the car it won't run right. Take to one of the parts stores and they can check it for you for free. Probably as simple as a battery.

Posted on Aug 16, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: VW Golf Mk3 2.0L 16v low idle rev/cold cut out

hi i have the same problem.but i cat find what to do.iff u eill find out please le me know.07853592087

Posted on Jan 18, 2010

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1986 Mercury grand Marquis cutting out when slowing down nearly impossible to start. Oil changed, new air filter, new plugs and wires, new fuel filter...?


I had an experience with a 1984 T-Bird with a 302. The 1986 may have the same system. With that car there was a temperature sensor that affected the idle speed once the car was close to warming up.
With even later models there is a "cold start sequence" which is an electronic way of replacing the ancient choke. The "cold" feature set the fuel mix and the RPM and made starts easier. Now you did not say if the starting problem was when hot or cold or both.

The poor performance when slowing down can be related to the idle rpm being set too low once the thermal switch cuts out. What happens is someone tunes the engine for a rpm that may be correct for the car, but the thermal switch has not dropped the rpm yet. Then when the car really heats up, the idle drops even lower and when you take off your foot from the throttle, the throttle closes too much and the engine cuts out when you are slowing.

Put in a new thermostat. The idle settings can not be set until the thermal switches activate to a run position. Also you may have some vacuum lines crossed which are making the cold and hot cycles reverse. There should be a label with vacuum line routing shown stuck on a part that holds the radiator.

May 31, 2015 | Mercury Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2008 ford ranger 2.5, what could be the problem if engine starts normal but after second the engine fluctuate?


Bleeding the fuel system is typically only needed on high pressure systems like GDI and Diesel vehicles, and only to get them to start if they run dry once.
If your engine keeps running but the idle speed moves up and down there are many things that can cause that. More information is always helpful. Does it always do it whenever the car is running? Or does it only do it conditionally (IE Only when 1st started in the morning, only after warmed up or getting off the dreeway, only with AC on or at night...describe as much as you can.)
Most newer cars have computer controlled idle strategy that wants to idle the car cold around 1000-1500 rpm (After an initial higher rev called a FLARE) and then bring it down in 3 or 4 minutes to 700ish rpm. If it CANNOT bring it down by normal means, then many resort to something called FUEL CUT IDLE where it actually turns off the fuel momentarily and the RPM will drop because the car is stalling and running out of gas...then back on and it starts to rev back up and when it gets too hiugh it turns back off. Cars that do this can have annoying surges from 500-2000 back and forth at idle forever.

a vacuum leak or MAF meter problem can cause rough idle. ALmost any engine code that turns on CHECK ENGINE lamp may be suspect, does it have any current fault codes?

As well, consider Sticking manifold runners, EGR systems, and temperature sensors all can cause surging, so can a defective Oxygen sensor, slightly jumped timing, and dirty throttle plates the ECM wants to close more but they wont due to dirt. If its not something fairly obvious, it may require deeper checking.

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1 Answer

Engine wont catch


Catch?
cranks fast
starts every time.
idles fine hot or cold , or both? hot idle not too fast.
i race engine , in park and neutral, I can hit 3500 rpm easy, can you.
i release brakes, (brakes are not packed in ICE , are they?)
I select 1gear or reverse (A/T or m/t)
the car moves or dont move, which is it, my guess catch = no move at all.
I try to drive, i look at RPM and MPH
RPM moves up and MPH track.
track means they both move in a linear progression.
RPM rises and for all RPM increases MPH also increases.
does it?
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weak on hills?

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1 Answer

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check the MAP sensor (manifold absolute pressure). The ECM (car computer) uses that to keep idle at minimum 750 RPM. It's normal for it to run high when cold. These small 4 banger motors typically run hot, and they won't run right IF they're NOT running hot, ergo the idle is usually high when it is cold so as to cause it to warm up quicker. If the RPM's drop below 750, suspect the MAP sensor, &/or ECM.

Apr 18, 2013 | 1995 Acura Integra Coupe

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Run a fault code test as a starting point for diagnosis of this problem, learn how to do that here

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1 Answer

2002 cavalier 2.2 cuts out at 4000 rpm


The 2.2 or the 2.4 neither one has RPM limiter. On these vehicle when the timing chain goes,you end up taking out a valve. If your timing chain is out of timing it will do exactly what you describe, now the pecking noise if that is a valve it will do exactly also

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1 Answer

1995 Galant Idels between 1500 and 2000rpm.


hi, i would say the automatic choke spring broke, this is what controls the cars idle at cold and hot engine tempatures. if it's broke it is no longer able to automaticly regulate the rpm's the for making it idle at hi rpm. hope this could help you.

Jan 06, 2009 | 1995 Mitsubishi Mirage

1 Answer

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