Question about Chevrolet Cavalier
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hello Ranger Joe, eight months and two radiators is very uncommon. Question, Have you visually confirmed the leak in the radiators or is the leak near the hose connections? Replacing the radiator, cap, water pump, & the thermostat leaves only two others, the hoses and the engine block/heads. Far fitched will be something or somebody poking holes in the radiator.
Posted on Nov 07, 2008
Coolant leaks can occur anywhere in the
cooling system. Nine out of ten times, coolant leaks are easy to find
because the coolant can be seen dripping, spraying, seeping or bubbling
from the leaky component. So open the hood and visually inspect the
engine and cooling system for any sign of liquid leaking from the
engine, radiator or hoses. The color of the coolant may be green,
orange or yellow depending on the type of antifreeze in the system. The
most common places where coolant may be leaking are:Water pump. A bead shaft seal will
allow coolant to dribble out of the vent hole just under the water pump
pulley shaft. If the water pump is a two-piece unit with a backing
plate, the gasket between the housing and back cover may be leaking.
The gasket or o-ring that seals the pump to the engine front cover on
cover-mounted water pumps can also leak coolant. Look for stains,
discoloration or liquid coolant on the outside of the water pump or
engine.Radiator. Radiators can develop
leaks around upper or loser hose connections as a result of vibration.
The seams where the core is mated to the end tanks is another place
where leaks frequently develop, as is the area where the cooling tubes
in the core are connected or soldered to the core headers. The core
itself is also vulnerable to stone damage. But a major factor in many
radiator leaks is internal corrosion that eats away from the inside
out. That's why regular coolant flushes and replacing the antifreeze is
oses. Cracks, pinholes or splits in a radiator hose or heater hose will leak coolant. A hose leak will usually send a stream of hot coolant spraying out of the hose. A corroded hose connection or a loose or damaged hose clamp may also allow coolant to leak from the end of a hose. Sometimes the leak may only occur once the hose gets hot and the pinhole or crack opens up. Freeze plugs (casting plugs or expansion plugs in the sides of the engine block and/or cylinder head). The flat steel plugs corroded from the inside out, and eventually eat through allowing coolant to leak from the engine. The plugs may be hard to see because they are behind the exhaust manifold, engine mount or other engine accessories. On V6 and V8 blocks, the plugs are most easily inspected from underneath the vehicle.
Heater Core. The heater core is located inside the heating ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) unit under the dash. It is out of sight so you canï¿½t see a leak directly. But if the heater core is leaking (or a hose connection to the heater core is leaking), coolant will be seeping out of the bottom of the HVAC unit and dripping on the carpet. Look for stains or wet spots on the bottom of the plastic HVAC case, or on the passenger side floor.
Intake Manifold gasket. The gasket that seals the intake manifold to the cylinder heads may leak and allow coolant to enter the intake port, crankcase or dribble down the outside of the engine. Some engines such as General Motors 3.1L and 3.4L V6 engines as well as 4.3L, 5.0L and 5.7L V8s are notorious for leaky intake manifold gaskets. The intake manifold gaskets on these engines are plastic and often fail at 30,000 to 80,000 miles. Other troublesome applications include the intake manifold gaskets on Buick 3800 V6 and Ford 4.0L V6 engines.
INTERNAL COOLANT LEAKS
There are the worst kind of coolant leaks for two reasons. One is that they are impossible to see because they are hidden inside the engine. The other is that internal coolant leaks can be very expensive to repair.
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Posted on Nov 24, 2008
Perform a liquid block test (with the bottle of fluid over the radiator mouth.) If the blue liquid turns yellow or clear, you have hydrocarbons entering the cooling system (usually via head gskt.) If not, you have ruled out a costly repair.
Sounds like it overheats pretty easily, without t-stat! This block testing liquid is cheap, and will verify a suspected leaking head gasket without lengthy diagnosis. Hope it's better news, but good luck!
Posted on Jan 28, 2009
Is the reservoir boiling over or is it just leaking? If it is just leaking you need to repair it with silicone sealer or a special PVC repair kit. If it is boing over you need to find out why. Is the fan running? Turn the A/C on and the fan should run continuously. If not then check the fuse. If the fuse is good check the fan itself by applying 12 volts directly to the fan motor. If the fan is good then replace the thermal relay. Now, if the fan is running as it should then your thermostat may be stuck closed, the radiator may be clogged internally or externally. Clean the radiator of all bugs and debris on the coils. Remove the radiator cap and start the engine with the radiator full. You will see the coolant start to move when the thermostat opens. if you do not, then the water pump may be defective but not likely unless it is leaking or making noise. It is probably a stuck thermostat. Drain the system with the heater set to hot. Flush the system with plenty of water from a garden hose. Replace the thermostat, and fill the system with a 50/50 mix of Antifreeze & Distilled water or buy it premixed. 1 Gallon antifreeze with 1 gallon distilled water will do unless you buy premix and it will take 2 gallons. Don not use tap water! Leave the cap off and start the engine and keep adding coolant until you see no more air escaping and you can add no more. If the system has bleeder valves use them to remove any trapped air. This should solve your overheating problem unless the worst case scenario has happened. A blown head gasket. If you see white smoke from the exhaust, a white foamy substance on the underside of the oil fill cap of dipstick, oil level is overfull, or miss on one or more cylinders, you may have a blown head gasket.
Posted on Oct 16, 2009
with my experiance on these engines it's usually the upper outlet hoses running from the heads into a t then into the upper radiator hose they are pain to replace but 3 out of 3 of my v6 isuzu's have had the same problem you'll have to pull off the theromstat and the coil pack the hoses are very small and run from the end of the heads one on each into a t then into the radiator hose just under the housing
Posted on Dec 26, 2009
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