Question about 2001 Volvo S60

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Brakes why air comes out when i push the brake pedal ?

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If you are having air come out whe you press the brakes, that means that the seal in the brake booster is gone. You'll have to replace the booster

Posted on Jan 10, 2009

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No brake fluid reaching rear brakes


Your problem could be several things #1 Are you bleeding the brakes properly , start at passenger side rear wheel. Have someone t sit in drivers seat Have them push brake pedal down ,open bleeder.,close bleeder ,have them let brake pedal up . push pedal down again ,you open bleeder again than close bleeder,have brake pedal up continue doing this until a stream of brake fluid without air comes out.( never pump the brake pedal while bleeding) if this is not working after 30 or more cycles you may need to replace your master cylinder. if this was helpful please leave goodback

Jul 11, 2013 | 1996 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

Hear air when i push down the brake pedal


If the pedal gets hard then you either have a vacuum leak from the hose coming off of the brake booster going to the intake manifold or the brake booster itself is faulty.

Jan 10, 2012 | 1994 Jeep Cherokee Country

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When i step on the brake pedal it goes all the way down, what's wrong?


You have air in your brake lines. Try inspecting the system for brake fluid leaks. Replace any worn out brake pads, scored discs, leaking brake piston seals, etc.Now place a clear tube on the bleeder screws, one at a time , and bleed the air out of the system with the help of a friend to push the brake pedal. Start at the rear wheel cylinders and finish with the front calipers. Once the air is out of the lines the pedal should firm back up.

Oct 27, 2011 | 1995 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

Brake pedal has alot of back pressure and car moves in gear.Have to press real hard to stop.How to check abs pump if has one where or brake booster or master cylinder?Don't know how to trouble shoot or...


The air seeping is a dead giveaway. Your power brakes are now manual brakes, but stiffer. The diaphram in the brake booster has torn and the hissing noise is the engine vacuum escaping (you hear it louder when you depress the pedal right?). Replace the booster and you will be fine. The brake lights probably don't work because you can't push the pedal down far enought to release the switch. Please rate. Thanks.

Sep 03, 2011 | 1995 Mercury Cougar

1 Answer

What are the proper steps to bleeding your brakes on a 1990 vw golf deisel


For left hand drive vehicles: (If the car does not have ABS system you do not need any diagnostic equipment!)

IMPORTANT NOTE: You need using diagnostic equipment connected to the data link connector of the car in order to bleed the ABS block. Follow instructions by scantool equipment for bleeding the ABS block.


1. This bleeding procedure requires two people. Remove the brake system reservoir cap, and fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached.
2. Lift the car, or use a channel for access under vehicle.
3. Put the gearbox in "N" - Neutral position, or in "P" - Parking position for automatic transmission.
4. Start the engine and push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor.
5. Begin with the rear right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
6. Repeat steps no.#4 and no.#5 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

7. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
8. Continue with the rear left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
9. Repeat steps no.#7 and no.#8 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

10. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
11. Continue with the front right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
12. Repeat steps no.#10 and no.#11 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

13. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
14. Continue with the front left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
15. Repeat steps no.#13 and no.#14 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.
16. Now the brakes are bleeded. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached. Put back the brake reservoir cap.
17. Test the car brake system. The brake pedal movement no more than 1/3 of total stroke until the floor, when brake pedal is applied. Maximum admissible is 1/2 of total stroke.

Dec 06, 2010 | Volkswagen Golf Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I had to unhook the brake line on the right front tire (1998 4runner)to remove the starter, wondering what I need to do to bleed the brakes now.


To bleed the brakes you need someone to pump the brakes and someone to watch the air valve on the back of the brakes until the air is out of the line. Once the air valve on the back of the brake line starts to flow brake fluid clearly then the air will be out. Recap the air valve and you should be ok.

Nov 28, 2010 | 1998 Toyota 4Runner

3 Answers

Brakes stay soft even though they have been bled and the brake booster replaced. It sounds like there is an air leak somewhere. I replaced the master cylinder as well then they were bled and still I have...


If there are no brake line/fitting leaks and no crimped or bent brake lines/hoses:
The key to my answer is the sound of air leaking...
Check the Brake Booster to the rear of the Master Cylinder.
1. Check the Vacuum Hose going to the Air Resonator with the one way check valve. Make sure the Vacuum Hose does not have cracks, holes, etc.; or does not collapse with the engine on. If there are any problems with the hose - replace the hose. With the engine on: remove the Hose for the Resonator and check for a vacuum. CAREFULLY: Remove the Resonator and reconnect it to the Vacuum Hose. Again check for the presence of a vacuum coming from the inside of the Resonator. If the Hose had a vacuum, but the Resonator does not = Replace the Resonator. If there is a Vacuum - Reconnect the Vacuum Hose and Resonator to the Brake Booster

2. Checking the Brake Booster Seals:
a. While the Engine is running: Push in the brake pedal. Stop the Engine while keeping the Brake Pedal pushed in.
(1) If there is a change = the Brake Pedal sinks to the floor: The Brake Booster has a Air Leak.
(2) If there is no change = GO TO TEST 2 (#3 below)

3. Turn the engine on and wait a couple of minutes and turn the engine off. Push in the Brake Pedal several times.
a. If the Pedal goes down farther the first time, but continues to rise = gets harder after the 2nd, 3rd time the Brake Booster is fine.
b. If the Pedal continue to go farther down on each push = the Brake Booster has a leak.

One seal in particular - located where the Brake Booster is attached to the Fire Wall - located behind the Brake Pedal Arm. Check the mounting bolts for tightness. With the engine on and a partner pushing on the Brake pedal: try to determine if that rear seal is where the air is leaking from.
Any Air Leak in the Brake Booster Main Seals = a new (remanufactured) Brake Booster must be purchased, as these are not repairable.

Let me know if this helped. or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!

May 13, 2010 | 1998 Plymouth Breeze

3 Answers

Hard brake pedal hear air leaking when pedal pushed


When you press on the brake? Have your brake vacuum assist checked. It,s that bigspaceship looking thing between the brake master cylinder an firewall. good luck and be safe.

May 25, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Tahoe

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