Question about Isuzu Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
from Yahoo answers
The alternator is located on the passenger side of the motor at the bottom. There is a bracket attached to the motor and the alternator. You need not take the bracket off to remove the alternator. Two bolts hold the alternator to the bracket. One bolt is on the front top of the alternator and one bolt is located on the bottom front of the alternator. The bottom front bolt is attached to the tension adjustment for the alternator. Loosen the tension screw then remove the bolt going through the tension adjustment. After you loosen the top, front bolt, the alternator should be loose enough to move side to side. Remove the top, front bolt. Now you must disconnect the alternator from the power supply. Behind the alternator is a screw with a wire attached via nut. Remove this wire. Nextly there is a series of wires with a plug on the end. It is plugged into the side of the alternator. Uplug this item. You can also access both of these from the passenger side front tire well. Something to consider is that remanufactured alternators in Rodeo's as well as the Honda Passport (which has the same engine as the Rodeo) do not work and the problem(s) associated with a bad alternator,ie; not charging, no fan blower, battery light and brake light on, still exsist after replacing alternator with reman. Use a factory original alternator if possible. It will cost a little more than a reman but will most likely save you a lot of time and headache!
Hope this helps you out!!
Posted on Sep 29, 2008
You didn't say whether you had a V6 engine or a 4cyl. Here is the procedure for a V6.
It sounds like he moved the cam shaft independently of the crankshaft or other camshaft so you will need to do all these procedures:
1. Turn the crankshaft until the mark on the spocket is lined up with the mark on the oil pump housing (the mark is on the driver's side at 90 degrees to the sprocket itself).
2. Back off the crankshaft counterclockwise 1/8 turn to ensure the pistons aren't at top dead center. This gives the valves room to move without hitting the piston.
3. Turn the passenger's side camshaft until it "jumps" into place with the alignment mark on the camshaft pully is pretty close to being lined up with the mark on the engine head.
4. Turn the driver's side camshaft until it "jumps" into place but this won't be perfectly lined up with the mark but will be about an 1/8 turn off from the mark. Then line it up by hand.
5. The idler pulleys and tensioner pulleys should be installed on the engine but the tenioner pulley adjuster (it is a little cylinder with a rod coming out of it that is held in place by 2 bolts) should be removed.
6. Place the new belt on the crankshaft first. Be sure the arrows on the belt point in a clockwise direction. If you have a belt with lines and dots then the lines will line up with all markings that you have lined up together. The dots should line up at the 270 degree point on the crankshaft (opposite of the lines and the markings).
7. Loop the belt around the tensioner pulley, around the passenger's side cam, under the waterpump, around the driver's side cam, and finally around the idler pulley. Check all alignments.
8. Put the tesioner adjuster in a vise and squeeze it together until you can place a small drill bit or allen wrench through the holes to keep it compressed.
9. This is the tricky part. You will need to install the tensioner adjuster and that will require some moving of the belt to allow enough play to get the adjuster in place. This may move the passenger's side alignment. If so, you will need to try it again. I find that if you move passenger's side alignment mark clockwise by one tooth of the sprocket, then when you go to put the tensioner in place it lines up. You may find other tricks to overcome this challenge.
10. Once you think you have everything lined up. Use a wrench to turn the crankshaft sprocket 2 full turns. Listen closely and feel for any hard resistance as you do this to determine if the pistons are hitting the valves. If you believe they are hitting each other thenrepeat the adjustment procedure. Not doing this can ruin the valves or more.
11. If everything seems OK. remove the drill bit or allen wrench from the tension adjuster. Perform step 10 again for one final check.
I hope this helps.
Posted on Feb 22, 2009
well i got a salvaged ecm from a junkyard and put it in, still did'nt start. took alternator off to have it checked , it is fine. put it back in and now it starts and runs fine. check the alternator and the connections, i heard the alternator controls power after the initial ecm prime when it is turned on. i have no idea how true it is, but worth a shot. if you can find a cheap ecm for a junkyard (mine was 75 bucks) i would try that afterwords.
Posted on Mar 06, 2009
Remove belt, fan, fan shroud and fan bracket. Remove timing covers, timing belt and water pump. Replace timing belt and the hydraulic tensioner with new ones. I suggest you get a mechanic to do this as you can easly get it out of time. Not an easy job.
Posted on Jul 03, 2009
with my experiance on these engines it's usually the upper outlet hoses running from the heads into a t then into the upper radiator hose they are pain to replace but 3 out of 3 of my v6 isuzu's have had the same problem you'll have to pull off the theromstat and the coil pack the hoses are very small and run from the end of the heads one on each into a t then into the radiator hose just under the housing
Posted on Dec 26, 2009
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