Question about 2009 Porsche Cayenne
See www.rennlist.com and search for Rear hatch DIY this is where i found this for you.
Picture # 2 and #3 are just the tools and the parts used... The parts
were ordered from Sunset at a cost of $170.94 + shipping. The tools
needed include a variety of screwdrivers (extra long drivers are
helpful) for prying trim clips free, trim tools for the same, a T-20
torx for the grab handle screws and the C-pillar trim screws, and a
small Phillips for the D-Trim screws. The instructions I used were
printed from Renntech.org ( http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutor...-hatch-struts/ ). I beleive you must be a member there to view the forums... I also used the video at http://www.renntech.org/forums/video...hatch-springs/ ... If you aren\'t a member at Renntech, you should definitely consider it! Both the DIYs were very helpful!
Picture #4 - 6 show the Rear Trim Valance
that must be removed... First remove the light by gently prying the
driver\'s side down with a small screwdriver, then remove the electrical
connection by simply pulling it free (no latch). To get the valance
free, just pull down on it from the back edge and look underneath.
There are 9 large clips that are best removed by inserting a long
screwdriver under the edge and gently prying it free.
Pictures 7 - 10 show the D-pillar and C-pillar trim being removed.
The D-pillar trim has a small phillips screw behind the small door at
the top of the panel, 9 large clips, three smaller ones along the bottom
edge, and an electrical connection to the small speaker (some may not
have this). Unfortunately, I discovered that the two clips at the
bottom front of my panel were previously broken off (within blue circle)
by the technician who did this job some 4 years ago (doesn\'t that just
bug you?). They are a bit fragile, so pry them free first.
The C-pillar trip has a T-20 torx screw behind the Airbag trim cover, as
well as two small clips at the bottom (one at the front corner, one at
the rear). Pull this panel free and
allow it to just slide down the seatbelt... The only reason you are
removing this trim is to allow the headliner to be gently pryed down at
Picture 11 shows the grab handle being removed... Do this on both sides. The screws are T-20 torx.
Picture #12 is of the white plastic "supports" at the rear
corners that must both be removed. There are three T-20 torx that hold
this piece in place. NOTE: You do not need to remove the torx holding
the airbag in place (see red X). Remove both of these and set them
Pictures 13 - 15 show the "deformable elements" that now must be
removed. They are rigid foam pieces that seal the struts mounting
locations from the interior so that any water that might find its way
into the mounting cavity does not intrude into the interior. The "glue"
used to hold these in is a pliable, sticky, mess, but you must remove
it so that you reapply the new adhesive properly. Some have suggested
that you could just use silicon in place of the recommended adhesive.
That might well work just fine, but I purchased the recommended stuff
when I bought the parts, and I am glad that I did... It is messy to work
with, but the way it remains flexible tells me that it is better suited
for the task.
After cleaning up the adhesive from both the deformable elements and
from the car itself, it is now time to actually replace the struts (that
is why we are here, right?) I purchased all 4 struts (2 for the glass,
and 2 for the hatch). The struts for
the glass were only an additional $32.14, so it didn\'t make sense to me
to go to all this trouble and not replace everything...
Pictures 16 - 18 show the mounting points for the struts... They are
difficult to see and to get to (and to photograph), but they are
actually relatively easy to replace. You might want to enlist the help
of a friend or spouse here, as it is easier to reinstall the struts if
you can lift up on the hatch to precisely align the ball mounts. I removed all four struts before reinstalling any...
The old struts are best removed by either prying the small clip back
from the ball mount (look at the new parts and you will see what I am
talking about), or by simply prying them off the ball mounts with a
To install the new parts, you simply apply moderate pressure to the rear
of the ball socket and they will pop on... It may be easier to gently
pry the retaining clips back before doing this, but then you must be
sure the clips return to the correct position or the socket may pop off
the ball. I simply popped them on.
Reassembly was just the reverse of disassembly... Once you get the
panels in place, a sharp rap at the right spot usually popped the clips
into place. There were no problems encountered in reassembly, and I was
very glad that this was done!
Posted on Jan 02, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hi, British Summer time hey! You can use the indicator stalk to access to menu.
Navigate your way to settings, the select the Clock option and set the time using the ricker switch, you can also format the clock to 12 /24 hour - enjoy!
Posted on May 04, 2009
Emergency operation of rear lid
If the rear lid cannot be opened with the radio
remote control (e.g., if the battery of the remote
control is dead), the emergency operation must
1. Unlock and open the driver's door with the
2. Switch on the ignition so that the alarm system
will not be triggered.
3. Check if the TAILGATE function is activated in
the multi-purpose display of the instrument
Please observe the chapter “TAILGATE” on
4. Press the central locking button in the armrest.
The rear lid is now unlocked and can be opened
with the unlocking handle
Posted on Jul 03, 2009
It might be related to the power steering pump, I had a similar problem and bled the system and topped up with fluid and it solved it.
Posted on Nov 17, 2009
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