Question about 1995 Ford Escort
Motor mount diagram
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Here's a link that may help you.
Posted on Aug 06, 2009
both the cam gear and the crank gear timing marks should point straight up. if you are replacing your timing belt you may also want to replace your timing belt tensioner and water pump. I have owned several escorts and have learned the hard way that it is a good idea to replace all of these at the same time.
Posted on Apr 24, 2009
The engine mounts (2) and the transmission mount serve to hold the drive train compontents in the chassis and do so flexibly and with the strength exceeding the torque generated by the engine. If not for the mounts, when opening the throttle (in gear), the engine and transmission would lurch out of the engine compartment!
Check the mounts by raising the hood and, with the engine running, holding the brake firmly with one foot, select drive or reverse, briefly accellerate while holding the brake firmly--observe while doing this the engine will rise slightly (good) to a couple of inches (not good). Do not let the car move, nor let anyone stand in the car's path were it to move. Accellerate for not more than two seconds when checking the mounts.
To change them you need to raise the car and safely support on jackstands under the side rail of the car in the indicated position. I have been able to do this raising only the passenger side.
Then you will need to carefully lift the engine, too. I have used a hydralic "bottle Jack" placed under the block at the edge of the oil pan.
Using 18mm wrenches loosen the nuts at the top and bottom of the mounts. I change one mount at a time. Remove the nutsand the the worn mount (careful- it's fluid filled-- nasty stuff, you would not like spilling it on yourself).
You may have to lift the engine quite high and wiggle the mount around to clear getting it out and the new one in. Orient the mount correctly so that the tabs fit the slots, start the nuts on the studs carefully, you don't want these cross threaded, then tighten completely, having lowered the engine fully onto the new mount first.
Check the new mount as described above.
Be very careful in doing all of this. Use tire chalks, set the parking brake. Check that the car is secure on the stands prior to getting under it. Use common sense too.
Posted on Jun 16, 2009
that is a common problem with the ford focus i have a 2001 and if your overflow bottle has the smallest of cracks in it then it will leak onto the mount and then to the tensioner. I would start with the overflow bottle e-mail me if you need more help
Posted on Aug 07, 2009
Common problem with these cars are that the rubber piece that "gaps" your brakepedal from the micro-switch keeps breaking (they usually have a replacement rubber piece connected on the brake pedal beside it). If your brake lights won't go off because of this, either change-out this rubber gap piece - or, you can just change the gap with a wrench, and not even use the rubber gap piece (this is what I ended up doing on a couple of my escorts).
Posted on Aug 30, 2010
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