Question about 2005 Subaru Forester

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2005 subaru forester won't start, engine doesn't crank

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

xalint1
  • 150 Answers

SOURCE: Check Engine Light

Hello engelhard58
I have attached a link that can give you some of the reasons why your getting that code.I hope you able to get your answer out of that.
Mean of the code=P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold.
Link to site

Posted on Dec 12, 2008

  • 18 Answers

SOURCE: check engine light subaru forester 03

try ebay or used i would just replace the one downstream one frist

Posted on Jul 19, 2009

techbuster
  • 5081 Answers

SOURCE: how to change a headlight in a 2005 subaru

THE BELOW IS THE PROCEDURE FOR REPLACEMENT OF BULB IN THE HEADLIGHT, IT ALSO CONTAINS DETAILS HOW TO REMOVE HEAD LIGHT ASSEMBLY ALSO
So step one - go get 3 (or 4 if you replace turn signal) bulbs. The front marker and side marker are the same bulb type.

Step two - remove the middle grill. The top connectors are visible and you can use a flat-bladed screw driver to compress the side or top and jiggle them so they pop loose. One you get the top part of the grill loose - DO NOT just pull outward - you will break the non-visible two lower connectors and get to go to the dealer again to get new ones. Instead, to remove the grill once the top part is loose, PULL UP. These light gray lower connectors are inbedded in the Head Lamp assembly.

The exterior trim piece is next. The two top black poppers need to be jimmied up 1/4 inch and then they pull out. The trim piece has 3 additional attachment points that are hidden. About the middle and a few inches to the outbound side, there are 2. They have an outbound facing notch, and the trim piece needs to be tapped towards the outward direction (side of the car) until it is free of them. This piece can flex a bit - its OK - but don't overdo. The final attachment is at the outermost corner that is a 1/4" male that plugs into a female fitting - This can be carefully pulled out and the trim piece is off.

The next part is the Head Lamp Assembly. There are 3 screws which the owners Manual actually correctly identifies. These come out. And the assembly is basically loose, but attached by 4 cables going into the Assembly. The Marker lights and turn signal are easy - just untwist them. When you reconnect them - they have VERY different slot keys, so you won't have trouble remembering which is which. The tough one is the headlamp.
The connector to the bulb has a rubberized cover. You can't see it while it is in place,but it has the word "PUSH" and two arrows on it pointing at the sides. You need to press in on the sides, a little higher than the middle, and disconnect the bulb connector. I had to gently use channel locks to do this.

When the connector is removed, you can remove the rubber dam material surrounding the light. It may stick, but this entire thing will come off, making removal of the bulb a much simpler task.

Once this is removed, you will see a wire latch holding the lamp in. Squeeze the wire latch (like pinching a clothes pin - kind of) at the top and it should release the bulb, which can now be simply removed from the enclosure.

Replacement is the reverse and will be much easier now that you see all the parts that were previously hidden. So step one - go get 3 (or 4 if you replace turn signal) bulbs. The front marker and side marker are the same bulb type.

Step two - remove the middle grill. The top connectors are visible and you can use a flat-bladed screw driver to compress the side or top and jiggle them so they pop loose. One you get the top part of the grill loose - DO NOT just pull outward - you will break the non-visible two lower connectors and get to go to the dealer again to get new ones. Instead, to remove the grill once the top part is loose, PULL UP. These light gray lower connectors are inbedded in the Head Lamp assembly.

The exterior trim piece is next. The two top black poppers need to be jimmied up 1/4 inch and then they pull out. The trim piece has 3 additional attachment points that are hidden. About the middle and a few inches to the outbound side, there are 2. They have an outbound facing notch, and the trim piece needs to be tapped towards the outward direction (side of the car) until it is free of them. This piece can flex a bit - its OK - but don't overdo. The final attachment is at the outermost corner that is a 1/4" male that plugs into a female fitting - This can be carefully pulled out and the trim piece is off.

The next part is the Head Lamp Assembly. There are 3 screws which the owners Manual actually correctly identifies. These come out. And the assembly is basically loose, but attached by 4 cables going into the Assembly. The Marker lights and turn signal are easy - just untwist them. When you reconnect them - they have VERY different slot keys, so you won't have trouble remembering which is which. The tough one is the headlamp.
The connector to the bulb has a rubberized cover. You can't see it while it is in place,but it has the word "PUSH" and two arrows on it pointing at the sides. You need to press in on the sides, a little higher than the middle, and disconnect the bulb connector. I had to gently use channel locks to do this.

When the connector is removed, you can remove the rubber dam material surrounding the light. It may stick, but this entire thing will come off, making removal of the bulb a much simpler task.

Once this is removed, you will see a wire latch holding the lamp in. Squeeze the wire latch (like pinching a clothes pin - kind of) at the top and it should release the bulb, which can now be simply removed from the enclosure.

Replacement is the reverse and will be much easier now that you see all the parts that were previously hidden.

Posted on Oct 11, 2009

SooSooSubaru
  • 49 Answers

SOURCE: Replacing digital clock lamp in 2005 Subaru Forester

If your talking about replacing your Forester Clock module, you can find helpful tips at www.subaru-clock.com. If your clock is not working, it is most likely the clock module, which can be refurbished inexpensively at the aforementioned site. A "dead" or intermittent clock display is a common problem with certain years of Subaru.

Posted on Oct 24, 2009

czaa
  • 4514 Answers

SOURCE: 2005 subaru forester wont start even though engine

try library sec629 there r chilton n mitchell volumes

Posted on Jan 06, 2010

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1 Answer

851 obd2


Bring it to dealership, this code is listed in Subaru TSB and should be free to fix it.

2005 Subaru Forester Engine TSBs
1 TSB Number: 166806 NHTSA Number: 10020531 TSB Date: October 9, 2006 Date Added to File: November 13, 2006 Failing Component:
Engine And Engine Cooling:Engine Summary:
Vehicles equipped with 4 eat diagnostic procedures for P0851/P0852.

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Please have a fuel pressure leak down test performed, most likely the check valve in the fuel pump has failed. A special tool and skills are needed top run this test.

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Changed the alternator and starter and the timing belt on a 1998 subaru forester and it still wont start ...


If the engine cranks but won't start, the starter and alternator would not be the problem.
Was the engine running before you changed the timing belt ?
Do you have spark to the plugs and fuel to the injectors ?
Do you have normal compression on all cylinders ?

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You MUST read the fault codes to discover what cylinder is misfiring. Why not buy a cheap fault code reader. Here is one such reader. New OBD2 II EOBD Car Diagnostic Code Reader Live Data

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