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Don't know how all that checking took place or why you don't know if both motors are working I work from factory wiring diagram books, I buy for all my vehicles You look at diagrams of the exact product your troubleshooting How would you know anything at all without reference material? Where would you put your volt meter test leads without a print & a point on it you chose to start your voltage drops. I would say in most cases the door panels have to come off, to test switches & motors all within a reasonable time frame Just walk the wiring diagram from the fuse You either have battery voltage or you don't Once the door panels come off you unplug & power the motors direct to the battery, with a circuit breaker you install in your made up test wiring,which obviously has to be 12 feet long.
All the wiring for all the windows flow through the master switch...both power and ground. So the problem is most likely a bad master switch or a broken wire in the hinge area of the driver's door. Get a wiring diagram and check for power and ground coming to the switch. If so, then the switch is most likely bad. Read this post http://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/window-goes-up-but-not-down/
Each window has its own motor. If NONE are working, check the switch. The YELLOW wire should be HOT. 12V its on a 30 amp circuit breaker. Unusual to lose ALL the windows, unless the switch is bad OR no power to the switch. The other windows get power through the main window switch
Take off the door panel and disconnect the two wire plug one is brown the other is orange. Take two jumper wires and run them to a battery. If it goes down then switch the wires on the battery and it will go up. If it does not move then the window motor is shot and will need to be replaced.
If none of the windows work - i.e. none of the windows will go up or down from any switch in the vehicle - what I would look for is a break in the Light Blue and Black wire that goes through the umbilical from the body to the drivers door. All of the windows are powered by this wire and it is common for wires to break inside the umbilical due to flexing back and forth every time the driver's door is opened and closed.
If you have power at the fuse, it could be anything from bad switch, bad connection or bad wire. First try the other window controls on the other doors and see what works. If none then check the fuse. If some work alone but not by the drivers control then the problem is likely the drivers switch but verify by gaining access the the wires behind the switch and properly jumping the wires, (after looking at diagram). If they work not using the switch then the switch is bad. If you are really patient and brave the switch can be dissasembled, clean the contacts and reinstall. I've done it many times but takes care and patience with tiny breakable parts.
You listed that none of the windows work, the most common problem for this type would be the driver door window switches, remove the master switch and make sure the connector is connected good, ive seen the connector come loose inside the door panel going to the switch so check that. another reason may be a broken wire coming into the door where the hinges are, you will see the rubber boot that contains the wires, take a look inside rubber boot but look closely at each wire. good luck.
Also check the wires coming out of the drivers door near the hinges between the doors and the body to make sure no breakage has occured, and you are on the right track thus far...... you can always by pas the swtich as well, till you can replace the switch