Question about 2005 Jeep Liberty
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The MAP sensor (MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE) changes voltage or frequency as intake manifold pressure changes (air flow increases or decreases). The engine's computer uses the reading to advance or ****** engine timing. On older, non-fuel injected engines the vacuum advance on the distributor did basically the same thing.
The MAP sensor also works with other sensors on the Jeep engine, specifically the Throttle Position Sensor (on the throttle body) and Crank Position Sensor (on the transmission bell housing) to control other fuel flow and ignition timing functions.
If you're having problems with the MAP sensor, or are getting a Check Engine light and code for the MAP sensor keep in mind that other problems may cause that error code.
Bad vacuum hoses, vacuum leaks, bad EGR valves, intake manifold leaks, clogged air filter can all affect the MAP. sensor. To know for sure all the other sensors should be checked for correct voltage and perimeters
Also, if you have done any mods to the engine, especially intake, exhaust and ignition mods you may get an error code for the MAP or incorrect reading and a resulting loss in power or increased fuel usage.
The map sensor is easy to change with a couple screws off the Throttle body.. The part the air inters (the air breather). Buy one from the auto parts store if your sure that is the problem and just replace it..There is no adjustments to it...
It really sounds to me that you have a small vacuum leak in a line somewhere.You can try spraying the motor vacuum lines with soapy water with the vehicle running to find a leak. Also listen and feel under the dash for leaks and hissing sounds.
Hope this helps.......
Posted on Oct 31, 2008
It probably will cost a few bucks to get the code reset, but you don't need to go to the dealership, most shops with a good scanner equipped for air bag code reading will be able to diagnose and reset the light. The most probable reason for the code is the battery being dead for a while, there is a capacitor in the airbag circuit to make sure the airbag can go off in a collision even if the battery disconnects itself in the process. There is a slim chance it might be something else but either way the shop should be able to tell you what the problem is, and get it fixed... But, just for fun, before doing all this, i'd disconnect the battery for 30 minutes to an hour and reconnect it back, some systems do effectively reset themselves this way.
Posted on Jan 13, 2009
put the back of car on jack stands and secure the front tires so it does not roll and then remove the bolts off the back of the caliper there is normally two one at top and one at bottom and spray it with some kind of oil for rust and make sure you have the right size socket before you try to loosen them and once caliper is off and the old pads removed take one of the old pads and squeeze the piston on the caliper back in by using a "C" clamp and also remove some of the brake fluid from the master cylinder before you do this put the new ones back on and check the brake fluid and make sure it is full and then pump the brakes to make sure you have a good pedal also put some "No Squeak" brake stop on the back of the pads so they don't squeak they will have that where you buy the pads from
Posted on Mar 01, 2009
brake pedal switch, get a wire, unplug plug, bridge circuit and check lights.
plug and switch is high up on the brake pedal not normally easy to get to.
Posted on Aug 15, 2009
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