NO POWER TO LIGHTS OR ENGINE AFTER I SPARKS THE BATTERY ON ACCIDE
Iwas installing the battery and i accidently sparked it on the radiator ,now i cant get nothing to work no lights , no sounds when i turn the key and i checked all the fuses and the 2 circuit breakers with a meter.please let me know what else to do thanks.
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you need drain fuel tank.fuel tank probably need to be removed and cleaned out to remove all sediment in bottom of fuel tank.remove each sparks and label them.squirt some clean engine oil down the spark holes into cylinder bores to help lubricate cylinder walls and help seal the piston rings to build up compression.replace fuel filter.best to change spark plugs and wires.check all brake hoses they more likely old cracked. i would change brake fluid bleed out all the old brake fluid out of the brake system.also change power steering fluid and change transmission fluid and filter also change engine oil and oil filter.replace the antifreeze and all the coolant hoses and radiator hose.replace thermostat and radiator pressure cap.replace battery and add new full tank of gas.you should be ready go. check ignition timing also.
you need a new fan switch for the engine fan.
with the engine off and the battery cables disconnected from the battery - replace the switch.
if the ( "sparks near the switch") is the fan switch check the wires when you replace the switch.
if these ("sparks near the switch ") are another switch check those wires for frays and tighten or repair.
take one of the battery cables off the battery and see if it sparks while removing it, if it does you have a shortage some where in the elect. system , this is the possible cause of the battery drain. If a shortage is present, you'll need to have wind or a fan blowing at the battery to keep gases from the battery blown away, as they are explosive,go to the fuse panel and remove one fuse, go to battery and touch the cable to the post, if it sparks, replace fuse and pull another one, once you pull a fuse and don't get sparks , then you located part of the problem, you have a shortage in this part of the system. At least this will let you know where the short is. Also, auto part stores sell a little switch which disconnects the battery,you can install one of these and flip the switch when not in use and prevent the power drainage.
Leave the battery disconnected and charge it for about 8-hours with a low-rate charger. Make sure all switches are off, then tap the battery cable back to the post--if you get bright flashes/sparks, you will need to isolate various sections of the wiring by removing fuses and remove the heavy wire going to the alternator. Once you get it to where there are no sparks, push the connector on to the post (but don't tighten yet), start replacing fuses and wire connections one at a time until you find one that sparks--that is the circuit that you need to trace out. If it is the alternator wire, have the alternator tested at an auto parts store. If you got no reaction when replacing the negative cable to the post after charging, a switch may have been left on thus draining the battery. Hope this helps!
There is an ECM to control the starting and running of the engine but it seldom is the problem.
First you need to isolate if it is mechanical, electrical or fuel that is causing the problem.
Remove the distributor cap and crank the engine, if the rotor turns, we can skip mechanical.
Before checking any electricals, check if there are any blown fuses both under dash and hood.
Check for power supply to distributor Black/Yellow wire with ignition switch on. If there is, pull 1 plug wire out and insert a plug to its end and ground it on the engine, NEVER groud it to the battery terminals.
Crank the engine and if you see blue sparks it is ok, reddish or yellow sparks means the coils is bad.
If no sparks, the ICM is faulty.
Test for power supply to fuel pump at initial ignition switch turned on, (2 seconds only) and while cranking. If none, the main relay is faulty. Take care
something draining the battery .check blower motor sometimes keeps running even when indicating it is off .remove battery terminal and tap against the terminal to see if there any large sparks.if they are . remove fuses one by one as u test till the spark is not there .find out what links are used on that link and disconect one by one when the fuse is on and test if the large spark is still there
The distributor in the hondas has a function of also engaging the coil
to create spark. No spark = no fire. Perhaps take a plug out, leave the
lead on, hold it with INSULATED pliers against a solid metal part of the
engine and get someone to crank the engine over.
If the plug sparks -
coil and firing switch OK. If no spark, check coil first - remove main +
feed lead from coil terminals and check on a meter for power with key
on but NO motor cranking. No power = faulty distributor/firing switch.No
other ideas sorry!
If it won't
turn over you may want to check
Battery cables for tightness and/or corrosion
Neutral or clutch safety switch
Charge the battery--then remove the negative battery terminal. Scratch the terminal over the battery post--lots of sparks (everything turned off) mean something is shorting to ground. Remove the alternator heavy wire connection and cover the wire end with a towel or paper to insulate it from ground. Retry the negative battery terminal again as before--no sparks, replace the alternator (shorted diode). If still sparks, reconnect the alternator wire, then check for hidden lights that are on (glove box, under hood light). If still get sparks, start pulling and replacing fuses, while checking for sparks each time a fuse is out. At some point, you should find the fuse that controls whatever the short/load is in.
As long as your attaching red to + and black to - you'll be fine. If you don't want sparks don't turn on your charger until after you connect the wires. Be sure to remove the negative cable to your car before charging or you can damage the computer in the vehicle.