I have a mazda 6, 2004 with 103000 miles on it. A few weeks ago I started having a problem with the heater. When I stopped the heater would blow out cold air. Then all of a sudden upon starting the engine would rev as if someone had their foot on the gas peddle. The engine light came on and and the oil light. I stopped and checked the oil. There was no oil in the block. I replenished the oil and I was fine. Two days later on my way to work the car just stopped working. I had it towed to a garage and there was no oil in the car again. The oil filter had cracked. So I replaced that and then the car would not start again. It was put on a machine and it stated that the cam sensor needed replaced. So I replaced that and still not starting. Help
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Re: car wont start
I hope you did not run it without oil. Did it overheat ? Try replacing the crank shaft sensor. It is located in the cylinder part of the the engine near the timing cover. If it overheated the temperature control sensor could have gone out too. And the Idle Position sensor. Sorry I had to tell you this. But I hope you did not blow the rings and head gasket.
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After I had the throttle body of my 2005 mazda3 cleaned, the RPMs would jump drastically - bouncing back and forth up to 16 times! The service manager seemed perplexed...and ultimately the solution was TIME. The bouncing gradually diminished and then stopped...can't remember for sure, but it was probably over about 6 weeks, maybe about 1000 miles.
I'm afraid your fears are right. From what you have written I don't think there is much chance of that motor being any good. Right now your best option is to find a repair shop that you can trust to help you. It is possible to rebuild your engine or replace it with a used engine or replace the car. This all will depend on the condition of the rest of the car and how much you can spend. There is no point in spending good money on a new or rebuilt engine if the car is not in extremely good shape. It's too old. If your car is like the rest of ours you would be better off to find a used engine or get another car. You can usually get back on the road for around $1500 as opposed to $2500 or more if you rebuild.
By all means get it into a shop to be sure first. Get it checked over and go from there. Hope this helps.
I had this exact same problem -- for about a year and a half! Replaced thermostat, replaced sensor twice, replaced overflow tank, replaced radiator cap, placed a grounding kit on the car in case the problem was electrical ... and was ABOUT to replace thermostat again and then the water pump when a new mechanic suggested we bleed air out of the cooling system. The heater core was PACKED with air, as was the upper hose valve area. Previous mechanic had been using a pressurized fill device to bleed the system and this had just been backing air into the heater core. There are two valves under the hood for bleeding air -- one on the heater core and one on the upper hose. It only takes a few minutes to fix this!