No heat when temp goes below freezing, gas leak when tank is full
The heater blower will work when above freezing, but when below 30 degrees or lower I have no heat only heat from the motor. At times if I hit a pothole it will come on but not very often. I checked the connections and does not help.
I had a new gas tank installed 6 months ago. When I fill the tank I lose 1/4 gas when sitting and gas fumes. I've had the gas tank checked but they always insist I run out the gas to 1/2 tank or less, so they can drop the tank. Went to the Chevy garage and same thing, they cannot find a problem with the gas tank. I've been to 2 other garages and same thing. There has to be another problem other than the gas tank, any ideas as to why I'm losing gas only when tank is full? It actually melted the asphalt under the truck, Maybe cause I'm a woman and don't think I know what I'm talking about. Just very frustrated and and have spent too much money trying to get to the cause.
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Re: No heat when temp goes below freezing, gas leak when...
The reason that the shops keep insisting on a low tank is because gasoline weighs about 7.5 lbs per gallon. It's too heavy to remove full. Aside from that, most shops just don't have a place to temporarily store that much fuel! You almost certainly have a leak on the top of the tank, either from the sending unit seal, a hose or the tank itself, which is why it only leaks when full. The location can only be determined after the tank is taken down and inspected. Though most warrantys cover 90days from when work is done, any reputable shop will usually correct this type of problem for free, Unless there was a problem they saw, told you about and you refused to allow them to correct. With regards to your heating problem: From your post, it sounds like the blower motor may have failed.(going over a bump would free it up) However, the motor itself would have been noisy before it got this bad. I don't see a corrolation between ambient temp and that though. Is the blower running when this happens? Also, If you don't have a proper antifreeze mixture, the heater core could be freezing up, but this would generally correct itself as the vehicle warms up. With limited info, I would not rule anything out yet! Good lucki
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Your anti freeze was weak and froze.the belts squealing was due from the pump was froze (ice). Put your car in your garage and use a heat gun around the engine block to warm the metal so internal temperature will rise and melt the ice.once defrosted star the car and check coolant level.use hydromiter to check your anti freeze. Should be 30 to 40 below zero.
There could be water entering the blower motor that is freezing and not letting the motor spin. You can remove the blower motor and inspect for water. If there is water in the motor... the source of the leak will have to be pinpointed.
Check that you have the full amount of anti-freeze in the expansion tank AND that it tests to -34 degrees below zero Fahrenheit.Weak anti-freeze allows boilover and then your heater won't work when level is low or it air locks.ALSO,your thermostat can be stuck shut and that will cause the above problem of boilover. This boilover can break down your oil by the engine overheating.So check your oil level and change your filter. don-ohio
I have a 2000 pontiac grand prix with a digital climate control system.
The heat quit working, it doesn't blow out any heat. Now that it is warm
outside the air stopped blowing out any air. The digital temperature on
the climate control is not correct. When it states that it is below 30
degrees on the ext and it is warm outside the air wont be cold. Once it
starts going above 30 degrees the air gets colder. Today the blower stop
working all together. Was told it maybe the climate control unit was
bad. You can hear the door opening/shutting when you switch the temp
from cold to hot. But there was no heat blowing out whatsoever in the
winter time. Could you please give me your opinion on whether or not it
is the climate control unit or something else?
It sounds to me like you're low on coolant. When you checked the coolant level, did you actually open the radiator cap and make sure the radiator is full? The plastic tank you generally add coolant too is actually an 'overflow' or 'reserve' tank. There is a hose that runs from that tank to the top of the radiator so if the radiator gets low on coolant, more coolant -should- run in from the overflow tank. However in practice this does not always work. I have a Jeep that leaks
coolant and experiences this exact same problem. Coolant will not run from the reserve tank into the radiator because the hose is plugged up, and whenever the radiator gets low on coolant the temp gauge will go real high and
then drop, and the heater doesn't work well. This is because the
cooling system of your car is supposed to be a closed system, full of
coolant and no air. When coolant leaks out, the space it used to occupy
is now occupied by air, which does not transfer heat well. When 'air'
is passing through your cooling system, no heat can be transferred from
your engine to the heater and radiator, resulting in a hot engine and
no heat at the heater. Then when a pocket of water passes through the
system, the temperature gauge quickly falls as the water absorbs the
heat from the engine. The hot water that cools the engine is where the
heater gets it's heat from as well, so when water passes through the
heater core, the heater works, but when it's filled with air, it
...You need to make sure you have the correct thermostat! Usually, there are 160, 180, and 195 degree therms for this jeep. 195 degree therm should be used no matter what the season. If you have a lower temp therm., you will not get good heat (or any at all) in cold weather. Also, You should flush and fill your cooling system to get any contaminants and/or debris out. Check the heater core...it may be **** at this point!
unless you have a tank full of water there is no worries. There is no heat plug that prevents freezing because gasoline has a very low freezing point ( like 90 degrees below zero) . So just make sure you dont have water or diluted fuel and dont have any worries about it.
If you smell coolant , there is a leak. I'm leaning towards a leak in the heater core if no fluid is visable and you smell it. Pull the blower motor off and look inside to see if it is wet. Have you had any issues with the radiator in the recent past? Maybe tried to correct it with stop-leak and didn't open the heater to full on hot? (maybe clogged the heater core up?)
No Blower in Floor Mode
A customer arrives with a 1983 to 1995 Full Size Ford, Lincoln, or Mercury
automobile with automatic temperature control. If the complaint is no blower operation when
the floor mode is selected, the vehicle may have a problem with the thermal blower lockout
switch also referred to as the CELO (cold engine lock out switch).
The thermal blower lock out switch is located in the heater core intake hose. The two
wire switch has a thermal element with a small set of contacts, the contacts are open when the
coolant is below 120°F and closed when the coolant is above 120°F. The thermal blower lock
out switch also contains a vacuum switch, which applies vacuum to the outside/recirculate
valve when the system is in the floor position. When the engine coolant is below 120 degrees
and the selector is set to floor position, the thermal blower lock out prevents blower from
turning on and closes off the outside air during engine warm-up. When the coolant
temperature is above 120 degrees, and the selector is set to the floor position, the thermal
blower lock out switch allows the blower to operate and opens the outside air door.
In order to diagnose this problem, test the thermal blower lockout switch with the
engine at normal operating temperature (above 120°F). Unplug the wire harness connector
from the thermal blower lockout switch. Using a 15-amp fused wire, jumper the harness
terminals to test the switch. If the blower comes on, the thermal blower lock out switch is
faulty. If the blower doesn’t come on, look for an open between the control head selector and
thermal blower lock out switch.
In some cases the blower may continually run even when the engine temperature is
below 120 degrees. Unplug the thermal blower lock out switch and if the blower motor turns
off, the thermal blower lock out switch is faulty. If the motor continues to run, look for a
short to power between the control head selector and thermal blower lock out switch