Paul is right you can go to radio shack or autozoneschucks or any parts store and ask for the removal tool it cost $20.00 tops. Trust me you don't want to undo the dash as the air bag could detonate if you shorted the two wires that can control it and it could kill you.
The following procedure requires the use of a C-clamp and slip-joint lock pliers.
Siphon off about 2/3 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoirs.
The insertion of thicker replacement pads will push the piston back into its bore and will cause a full master cylinder reservoir to overflow, possibly causing paint damage. In addition to siphoning off fluid, it would be wise to keep the reservoir cover on during pad replacement.
Raise and support the front of the vehicle on jackstands. Remove the wheels.
When replacing the pads on just one wheel, uneven braking will result; always replace the pads on both wheels.
Install a C-clamp on the caliper so that the frame side of the clamp rests against the back of the caliper and so the screw end rests against the metal part (shoe) of the outboard pad.
Tighten the clamp until the caliper moves enough to bottom the piston in its bore. Remove the clamp.
Remove the 2 Allen head caliper mounting bolts enough to allow the caliper to be pulled off the disc.
Remove the inboard pad and loosen the outboard pad. Place the caliper where it will not strain the brake hose; it would be best to wire it out of the way.
Remove the pad support spring clip from the piston.
Remove the 2 bolt ear sleeves and the 4 rubber bushings from the ears.
Riveted style brake pads should be replaced when they are worn to within 1/32 in. (0.8mm) of the rivet heads; bonded style pads should be replaced when they are worn to no less than 1/32 in. (0.8mm) of the backing plate.
Check the inside of the caliper for leakage and the condition of the piston dust boot.
Lubricate the 2 new sleeves and 4 bushings with a silicone spray.
Install the bushings in each caliper ear. Install the 2 sleeves in the 2 inboard ears.
Install the pad support spring clip and the old pad into the center of the piston. You will then push this pad down to get the piston flat against the caliper. This part of the job is a hassle and requires an assistant. While the assistant holds the caliper and loosens the bleeder valve to relieve the pressure, obtain a medium pry bar and try to force the old pad inward, making the piston flush with the caliper surface. When it is flush, close the bleeder valve so that no air gets into the system.
Make sure that the wear sensor is facing toward the rear of the caliper.
Place the outboard pad in the caliper with its top ears over the caliper ears and the bottom tab engaged in the caliper cutout.
After both pads are installed, lift the caliper and place the bottom edge of the outboard pad on the outer edge of the disc to make sure that there is no clearance between the tab on the bottom of the shoes and the caliper abutment.
Place the caliper over the disc, lining up the hole in the caliper ears with the hole in the mounting bracket. Make sure that the brake hose is not kinked.
Start the caliper-to-mounting bracket bolts through the sleeves in the inboard caliper ears and through the mounting bracket, making sure that the ends of the bolts pass under the retaining ears of the inboard shoe.
Push the mounting bolts through to engage the holes in the outboard shoes and the outboard caliper ears and then threading them into the mounting bracket.
Torque the mounting bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm). Pump the brake pedal to seat the linings against the rotors.
Using a pair of slip-joint locking pliers, place them on the notch on the caliper housing, bend the caliper upper ears until no clearance exists between the shoe and the caliper housing.
Install the wheels, lower the vehicle and refill the master cylinder reservoirs with brake fluid. Pump the brake pedal to make sure that it is firm. If it is not, bleed the brakes.
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Jack, wheel wrench, socket set, large screw driver, pair of pliers or grips. Lithium grease for the pins. Watch all of these videos.
YOU HAVE TO SAFELY RAISE SUPPORT VAN ON JACK STANDS.REMOVE BRAKE CALIPER AND BRAKE PADS DONT DISCONNECT BRAKE LINE.THEN MOVE DUST CAP OR GREASE CAP.REMOVE COTTER PIN SPINDLE NUT AND WASHER.THEN THE ROTOR NUT.YOU NEED A HAYNES OR CHILTON MANUAL.BECAUSE YOU HAVE TO ADJUST WHEEL BEARING WHEN YOU REPLACE ROTORS.
For a wrench or for the acctual bolt size.
To remove front pads..you need 8mm allen socket to pull the caliper guide pins, then 17 or 18mm..To remove rear pads...you need 13mm socket for lock bolt on guide pins and 15mm open end wrench (thin section to hold guide pin while you remove lock bolts..I ground down a spare wrench). You DO NOT have to remove rear carriers to change rotors..just remove lock screw and angle rotor out. The B5 Passats don't have the electronic parking brake so you don't need VAG Com to change pads. Installation tips: Clean and regrease the guide pins with "synthetic caliper grease" Rear lock bolts come with preapplied thread locker and "are not to be reused"..I just wire brush the threads and use some Loctite Blue on em. I smear just a little antisieze on the inside bore of the rotors and on the lock screw threads to prevent corrosion and make next rotor change ez. Torques: Front caliper guide pins:18 ft lb Front carrier bolts: 89 ft lb Rear guide pin lock bolts:26 ft lb Wheel lugs: 89 ft lb