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Re: 2000 S-10 no heat from the heater
There is a cable linking the controls on your dash with the damper under your dash on the passeanger side, u may be able to trace it visually to the damper to check its operation, when u found the lever it connects to, try to operate it from there and recheck. The temp. of the air coming out of your vent is influenced by your coolant temp, so check that you are getting to proper coolant temp. and verify that the heater hoses going into the firewall in the engine compartment are both hot when u have the heat on, engine running to check for proper circulation through your heater core.
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First I would check your radiator fluid level, sometimes being low can have this effect. Usually the rear heaters sit at a lower level and so keep working. If that is fine, then you probably have an issue with the diversion door or controller that controls the hot/cold mixture.
When you drain & refill a cooling system air is often traped in places like the heater core. If so the coolant level will appear full before it really is. To burp you need to add coolant till full or just over. Adjust the heater control to MAX heat. This will let full force of water pump to push air out of heater core. Fan speed dose not matter. Next start the motor & let it idle. As it warms up the thermostat will begin to open and close. This is when you should see fluid level drop as trapped air is pushed from system ( add fluid as needed). If this is working right you should fell quite hot air coming from heat vents. If air doesn't seem hot enough adding RPM by pulsing gas pedal should do the trick. And that should do it.
A couple of things comes to mind.....1, your Thermostat is not functional, as in it's stuck open etc. 2, the simple answer is the amount of fluid (water/anti-freeze) is low; make sure you have the fluids top-off. 3, you didn't say but if the air is or isn't blowing cold before it does get hot, maybe the vacuum line to the door to let the hot air come from your heater core is having a problem-or-the door itself is having a problem. Hope this helps, P. Ford
There are three thing that can go wrong here. I will give you the two simple ones first. first, check to make sure the thermostat isn't sticking or stuck. if it is, change it. two, Hot coolant going from the engine to the heater core, is controlled by a valve at the engine(these do go bad). Check the line when the engine is warmed up by turning on the heater(I know), and feel the line after about 5 minutes. The line should get hot, or very warm. The third is your heater core is clogged and needs to be replaced. hope this helps you
It sounds to me that you may have 2 problems. 1). Air Lock in the Heater Core. 2). Inactive Heat Damper in the Plenum.
But since you state that the Heater Hoses do not get warm that is indicative of an Air Lock in the Heater Core. This is a relatively simple fix. It is best performed COLD but requires a method of pressurizing the Cooling System. All reputable Auto Parts stores Sell and/or Rent Pumps that temporarily replace the Radiator Pressure Cap for Leak tests and curing Air Lock. The Collant Level must be filled FULL then pressurized and then loosening the Highest Heater Hose at the Firewall so that Air and a Small Amount of Coolant escapes. Once all the Air has escaped tighten the Heater Hose Clamp, remove the Pressure Pump, Restore the Collant Level to FULL, re-install the Pressure Cap and Start the Engine. As it Warms up you should be able to feel coolant running through the Heater Hoses and they should become warm.
First you have to identify what causes the problem.
To do this you have to: 1)When engine is cold check the level of coolant. If it is low fill it up. 2)Start engine and check if engine reaches regular temperature. If your engine is not heated enough it means your thermostat does not work properly and should be replaced. 3)If engine temperature is normal, then check the temperature of pipes that go to/from heater core. These pipes are located up the fire wall (easier access is from the passenger side). If pipe/pipes are cold (even engine is worm) it means you heater core is plugged and should be flushed. Keep in mind, flushing the whole cooling system is different from flushing heater core. 4)If pipe/pipes are hot/warm, turn off the fan, switch controller to the hot position, wait for 3-4 minutes and turn on the fan. Note if the cold air blows first or warm air blows first but it cools down in 5-10 seconds. If the air blows cold than it is most probably the problem with blend door or blend door actuator. 5)If air blows warm first and then cools down, then while running engine and remaining the transmission in PARKING position, press on the gas pedal until your engine reaches 3,000 RPM. Check if your heater blows warm/hot air. If it does, then your water pump does not work properly and should be replaced. If the air still cold, I would suggest to flush the heater core.
there is something wrong with your coolant system. Turn your car on, check your fan. If the fan runs nonstop, your relay switch to the fan needs to be changed. If its not the fan, its the thermostat. The thermostat is broke. If the thermostat is broke, it prevents your vehicle from warming up. The thermostat is a temperature Regulator for the engine. If your antifreeze is running nonstop in a circular motion, your engine will run cold. Your engine wont start that cold in the winter either.
after checking the heater core hoses they were both hot I went in to look at the blend door and noticed it wasn't moving on hot or cold so I simply disconnected the lincage and moved to hot and its working ok. but its not completely repaired