Question about Hyundai Motor 2000 Tiburon
Hyundai Grandeur year 2000. done approx. 85,000 Hello, it's a random problem and no-one has been able to solve it so far. Had the car for 2 years and last year the flashing check engine light would show. It start ok but the engine would rev too high when in P and there was insufficient power to drive the car properly. After restarting the car it would correct itself. Gradually became harder to get the car started properly. Also, the check engine light would sometimes come on while driving and power would reduce. Took it to a Hyundai specialist. First they replaced the TPS (Throttle positioning unit) then the Air Flow Meter then they sourced an auto electrician who recommended changing the wiring behind the dash. Nothing has worked and yet we have been charged for these parts. I took it to another mechanic who was also an expert on Hyundai's and he was unable to help. The car will drive perfectly for days or weeks and then will play up for short or long periods. There's no real pattern. Also when in P and pressure on brake there's a knocking sound (when C. E. Light flashing only) Hope you can help. Thank you.
Just some info for you.
A check engine light (CEL) on steady means that you have an emissions issue that needs to be addressed when you get time.
When the CEL is flashing, it means that there is an immediate serious failure in emissions that must be addressed immediately or you could damage your catalytic converter because usually too much unburned fuel is going into the converter to be treated. This will cause the converter to turn red from trying to treat the unburned fuel.
A knocking noise tells me the ignition timing is way too advanced causing spark knock. The engine computer does this because one of the sensors tells it to.
The rich fuel mixture tells me that the computer is being told to provide more fuel to the injectors.
Usually, the mass air flow (MAF) (meter as you said) sensor is the culprit. It gets coated with varnish. You can clean it with carb cleaner and a toothbrush very gently because the wires are delicate. However, you replaced that. Could be a wire problem between the sensor and the engine computer.
All that said, a tech can run a scan test on your computer and it will give them codes that the computer says is wrong. I would call the places you had any work done and ask for the codes and what they mean. Start from there.
A typical car has EGR sensor (Exhaust gas recirculation)
TP (throttle position) sensor
Oxygen sensor, upstream & downstream (they tell computer how much unburned fuel is in the exhaust so it can send the right amount of fuel through the injectors. I suspect this sensor sent the error signal to the computer.)
MAF sensor (tells computer how much air is flowing into the engine.
Temperature sensor (Tells computer the engine temperature so it knows when the engine is warmed up)
TP sensor (tells the computer if the gas pedal is at idle, wide open throttle or part way open)
CPS (Crankshaft position sensor) tells the computer when the number 1 piston is at top dead center.
Camshaft position sensor - Tells computer position of camshaft to control spark to spark plugs for proper timing.
All that said, the computer should provide codes to condem the bad sensor.
Posted on Jan 09, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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