Valve cover won't come off

engine size, etc., I can only make educated guesses, but here goes: You stated "My car will drive, but very slow hardly moving". My first suspicion is that you don't have a transmission problem, but the car is in what Chrysler calls the 'limp-home mode'. This occurs when the computer 'sees' a problem with an engine function or sensor that is serious, but not so bad that the car won't run at all. Limp-home mode allows your car to only operate in second gear so that you won't damage it further by driving normally, but won't leave you stranded either. Is your 'check engine' or 'service engine' light on? If not, check to see that it actually works by turning the key 'on', but not starting the car. All the dash lights should be lit for about 3-5 seconds. No matter what, you need to check your transmission fluid level (on a Crysler, should be checked with the engine running and in gear, NOT park or nuetral). Safety first, make sure someone is holding the brake on - please don't ever trust a 'parking brake' for this. If the fluid level is OK and there's no 'check engine' light you need
to visit a competent transmission shop. Probabably a worn front pump, torque converter, or a hung spool valve in the valve body, none of which is generally fixable at home. If you do have a 'check engine' light on, see a regular mechanic first as there is a mechanical problem probably not related to the transmission. Good Luck!

We seen to get a lot of those cars with that issue lately

I don't know the reason, but it won't be fixable without some
major head removal & whatever the dealers & aftermarket
have come up with to solve.

Bad engine design I suspect

If the chain is broken the cam or cams won't move, so the valves won't either. The engine would crank like the spark plugs are out - no compression.

Try some engine oil on the thing if it moves oil it with a oil can containing engine oil ,works wonders

If you just can't get to that last bolt (have you tried a universal joint or wobbly?), then you will have to hang the engine up to remove the motor mount. Lay a heavy board across the fenders with blankets between board and fender to protect the paint. Chain up or tie up the engine to the board so it won't drop when mount is removed. Of course, if you have a "cherry picker" hoist you could hold the engine up with that. It won't be a great weight to hold with the other mounts still secure. If the radiator won't let you get to the mount, take it off too.
When you are done, and oil pan back on, just use a jack under the oil pan with a piece of wood between jack and oil pan, to raise engine for installing the mount back together.

always check the simplest things first. is it getting spark? if so, is it getting gas? if so, is it getting enough gas? and so on...

if the valve timing is too far out the problem may be that one of the valves is open when it should'nt be & the piston is hitting it, if you try to keep starting the engine you may cause serious damage to it (if you have'nt already done so),it may be best to get a qualified mechanic to set the timing for you.....hope this helps.....cheers

I think you have 2 issues

It either has a leak & someone tried to
add refrigerant & let air in or your
compressor seal slowly leaks & you may
be able to evacuate & recharge it

It won't work next summer though

Forget the expansion valve unless you had a
compressor failure.

If you can't remove a dust cover to view the Timing Belt you can remove the valve cover and watch the valves while your cranking. If the lifters and valves aren't functioning then the Timing belt is broken. If they do work your problem is elsewhere.

jack the motor up slightly place a board between the jack and motor so that you won't damage anything loosen your front top motor ***** and remove lower the jack motor should shift forward ,you have enough room now