Question about 1995 Audi S6

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Radio in safe II mode

After many battery failure because of defective alternator (voltage regulator short ) , and finally being towed to the garage for repair , my radio was ending in safe mode every time the battery died. I was able to program the radio security code but not my mecanic trying to help me. Now my radio is in safe II mode, and now the procedure do not work. Can sombody help me.My car is 1996 s6.

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  • tompaxton66 Mar 04, 2009

    My 96 Audi A6's radio is in Safe II mode. I disconnected the battery overnight, it didn't fix the problem. Any ideas?

  • Anonymous Apr 01, 2009

    I disconnect every night. For several hours. And still no rest on Safe 2. .........any answers???



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Try disconnecting the battery overnight. that should put it back in safe mode 1.

Posted on Jan 09, 2009

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Its hight time u gotta change ur radio unit.

Posted on Jan 13, 2011


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2nd newly rebuilt alternator burning out.

Due to the nature of the battery technology used with vehicles the alternator is mostly incapable of charging the battery. The car alternator is designed to keep a fully charged battery fully charged and to provide all the power for the car equipment.

The alternator charge rate is regulated by a voltage regulator. Because the alternator output is connected to the battery, the alternator and battery voltage will be the same and the voltage regulator monitors that voltage.

The lower the battery voltage the more output the alternator will produce in order to correct the situation but because a lead acid battery has a high internal resistance to accepting a charge the terminal voltage will quickly rise to the alternator regulated voltage and fool the alternator into thinking the battery is fully charged when the output will drop to the order of just a couple of amps.

Switch on the headlights or a similar load that will lower the battery voltage and the alternator will increase it's output again - but only by the amount of current the headlamps or other load is consuming.
It matters not what the alternator rated maximum output is, it is designed to provide only the necessary current and no more.

The only time an alternator should ever need to produce maximum output is when on a dedicated testbed and then only for a short duration to avoid damaging the unit. Testing the current output on a modern vehicle is not recommended except for the regulated voltage testing and a rule-of-thumb output test where all equipment is switched on and the engine speed raised while the battery voltage is monitored.

Most modern alternators use an internal voltage regulator but a few systems use a separate voltage regulator. No alternator rebuild would be complete without a regulator test and probably a new or replacement regulator, which is where the majority of charging system problems are, or the brush gear.
Assuming the wiring is ok, no alternator should suffer any harm if the voltage regulator and auxilliary diodes (if fitted) are in good order though fitting a defective or a discharged battery can cause it to overheat and be damaged.

The alternator usually just about stops producing an output when the battery voltage is in the region of 14.5/14.8 volts.
Your description indicates the voltage regulator is not working correctly - unless 40 amps was being consumed by the car equipment the alternator should not have been producing 40 amps.. I suggest you also have your battery tested

May 12, 2017 | 1988 Acura Legend

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Alternator not charging

Possible short to the starter. I had a similar problem with my '91 mercury capri. I replaced the alternator and battery but the alternator would not charge the battery. My local mechanic spent hours tracking it down, but finally found the problem. Have not had a problem since. Good luck

Oct 14, 2011 | 1995 Honda Accord

1 Answer

I put a new battery in and it ran a week and shut down again...


The problem is often a defective alternator. Check voltages across battery terminals. When engine is on the voltage must go up from 12.5VDC to 13.5/14.5 VDC. If that does not happen the alternator is defective. If it is more than 14.5VDC the alternator's voltage regulator may be defective. If the alternator is OK the problem may be a short that is draining the battery or a defective contact to battery ground.



Aug 18, 2011 | 2003 Ford Escape

2 Answers

My battery light is on all time on the dash, why?

There is a fault in your battery or the alternator or voltage regulator. It is most likely the alternator as in this model the voltage regulator should be built into the alternator. You can remove the alternator and have it tested at Auto Zone or Advance auto or Pep Boys, most major auto parts stores offer to test them to make sure that is the problem. Since you would have to trade in the old one as a Core to get the new one it only makes sense to have it tested first anyway.

Jun 04, 2011 | 1997 Honda Odyssey

3 Answers

Voltage on battery at 18 and just replaced alternator in 95 olds auroa what is causing this

Replace alternator it is defective the internal regulator is defective, should only put out no more then 14.5 volt's, will short out your battery.

Jan 20, 2010 | 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora

1 Answer

Overcharging Alternator

Very short lesson on the charging system. Remember this, The higher the voltage the less the turn low voltage, high amps. When the Alternator is charging at or above 15v, It is virtually pure voltage and as a charging device is cooking your battery, not charging it. The alternator, though defective, is safe and your battery is in harms way. When an alt. is charging at or below13 volts, The charging amperage is approaching max output of the alternater, which, if maintained at that rate will overheat and cause alt, failure, The proper charging range is 13.6 to 14.2. Each end is the limit just short of maximum and eminent failure. Example: charging at 12v means the alternarer is at max output and is in danger of sling solder, litteraly. When you smell dulphur coming from the battery, The alt. is running wide open on the voltage and your batt ison death row. So, back to your problem. One more thing. All accessories that are designed to operate on 12v are art risk of being damaged from excess voltage. Some have a voltage limiter to protect against surges but not all. Oh, That is one heck of a hot alt at 140 amps. Is that original equipment? Well, I know I may have rambled a bit but I hope it helped you understand how it works so you can come to the conclusion I have. The Alternator has a bad regulator and is in whole or part defective. Good Luck, Ned

Nov 12, 2009 | 1999 Cadillac Seville

2 Answers

Charging problem on 2005 Suburban - gradual voltage reduction

This vehicle has a "Regulated Voltage Control" system. The computer reduces the charge voltage based on several parameters to improve gas mileage. Normally it shouldn't be a problem, but the computer will increase the voltage if you switch on the headlights. Also, if you're in Tow/Haul mode the voltage will increase.

Nov 15, 2008 | Chevrolet Suburban 1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Voltage regulator

Voltage regulator is built-in to the alternator assembly.

Have you tried replacing the battery?
A battery with a shorted cell will not charge properly and may even damage an alternator or regulator.

Note1: use a digital voltmeter (about $25 at Lowe's or Radio Shack) and check voltage across batt terminals while engine running. If more than 12.6 Volts DC and more typically about 13 Volts, then the alternator is working.

Note2: from Jan 98 to May 98 shows a different part # alternator than June - Dec 98
check the manufacture date on your driver door edge.

Oct 25, 2008 | 1998 Mazda Protege

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