I installed new rear brakes on ford ranger. when i take off i get a glung noise and the right brake locks up if i back up it unlocks. i can also unlock the brake by driving forward. when i stop and shut the engine of and restart the process starts all over again. i have inspected the shoes and every thing looks alright. any help would be aperciated.
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Re: parking brake problem????
Did you check your spring goes to each shoe it might be loose that would cause the lock up..check your anchor if they touching or align each other also you might check your parking cable if your put it the way it was check the spring also..
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There is a switch nicknamed a BOO switch. It is on the brake lever under the dash. This is often adjustable and controls the brake lights and the release for the gearshift. When properly adjusted it makes the rear lights come on as soon as the brake pedal moves. There is a release for the gearshift that uses a solenoid so even if you get the brake lights to work, a bad gearshift solenoid may keep the Park locked.
A drum brake shoe lining may have become separated from the metal pad that holds it in place and will cause the wheel to lock. The only repair necessary is to replace the brake linings with new ones. The loose piece of brake lining, if this is the cause, will not likely cause any difficulty removing the drum.
Parking brake is stuck ( possibly ),engauging parking brake a few times which in most cases will not help ( never know when they stick ) and at the back of the drum backing plate towards the axle will be the cable give it a couple good tuggs to release it and do not use it again or replace the cables ( if that is the case), if it will not release and or is free the you may have contamination in the brake lines to the rear right causing the caliper to be stuck open. The bleed the rear brake line best possible solution after that garage.
If NOT PARK BRAKE & / or Cables , THE BRAKE HOSE (RUBBER) from body to Axel can Fail on the INSIDE in a Way that it HOLDS Brake Fluid IN the Rear Axel (LINES) "STEAL" It sounds Strange But in My 30 years I have seen this MOSTLY on Front (Rubber) Hoses But also A Number of times, if you Crack it Loose on the AXEL side (Just After Semi HARD APPLYING of BRAKE) and it Drains Fluid FAST this is your Problem. Only OTHER Item Involved to HOLD BOTH WHEELS is> As I Said the PARK BRAKE MECHANISM & / OR CABLES.
Start by adjusting up the rear brakes, if those are tight and you still want to tighten up the parking brake running down the driver's side, outside the frame are the parking cables. somewhere around the back of the cab/front of the bed should be a plate with 2 cables and a bolt. tighten the bolt/nut up to make the parking brake tighter
With rear brakes the caliper piston must screwed in. It usually has a parking brake mechanism that has to screw out as the pad wears down. When you install a new fat pad, the piston won't retract with normal pressure of a clamp but must be screwed back in on the parking brake screw. This can be done with a long nose pliers but tools are made just for the purpose. I hope this helps.