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before doing so put a radiator flush in the expansion bottle.ran the car for about 20 miles then drain it.refill with 50/50 anti freeze mix.put your heating on full to bleed out the air .ran the engine till water getting hot .then refit the expanion bottle cap.
when you do the inside heater core you need to back flush the system. then do it forward do this a few times. then put back together and leave the top off the filler tank for the water. run engine keeping it topped up with water. have the heater open but not on fast blow 0 or 1 get the engine up to temp and as the fan starts to kick in turn engine off this will make a lot of the water come out don't top up at this point, now wait for the engine to cool down and then top up. wile the engine is running you will see the air come out and bubble out, you should notice it getting hot inside the cab but carry on with it till the end. as i have put in this post run for a day without anti freeze in then put this in, by taking the cap off. and undoing the the bottom pipe. then when tank is empty put the pipe back on and fill with anti freeze. full strength not mix. run engine for 5-10 min without the cap on then let cool down and put the cap back on should be all good then.
disconnect the heat hoses going into fire wall , put hose into one with pressure and flush as it sounds like it could be bloked in the heater core,the other thing that could be the problem be the hot ,cold switch as it restricts the flow to makes the heater hoter or colder , it might need tlc or replacing as it is manaul not elec
It could be the fan temp. switch but it shouldn't have been boiling in the overflow tank. I'd recommend doing a compression test to see if you have a blown head gasket. If it's a blown head gasket, the compressed air/fuel mix being force into the cooling system could well look like boiling in the over flow tank.
Hello there: This problem normally is caused by a couple of things that you can check First start the vehical and open the radiator cap and look to see if you can see the water inside the radiator moving around if not you might have a clogged radiator or the water pump is bad now when the car is getting hot try to hold and squeese the top radiator hose to see if it is hard and you cant squeeze it than this will tell you that the thermostat is not opening up and letting the water thru to cool the engine or that it is only letting some of the water thru in any case i would replace the thermostat first and then follow the other troubleshooting steps that i have provided ok and you should be ok after making the needed repairs. Hope this has been very helpful for you Best regards Michael
Did you run engine from cold, WITH HEATER ON, and fill cap off when re-filling system? If not, try that and see what happens. Let the engine get up to operating temperature and rad fan come on to cool 2 or 3 times before putting cap back on.
i can give you a general answer. the cooling sys is a closed system. as the engine warms up pressure is also increased. kinda like how a boiler works, or a pressure cooker. i dont know the figure of how much pressure is produced within an engine that is operating normally. the engine's thermostat. the thermostat of many car engines opens at 195 deg coolant temp, allowing the coolant to circulate. high pressure when considering a car's cooling sys to me is relative. if you try to remove the radiator cap when the engine is at/near/above operating temp you will be burned by the hot coolant under pressure rapidly escaping out the radiator. most pressure that is above normal is caused by an obstruction somewhere in the system. a t'stat that is stuck shut is an example. air pockets within the system will also lead to high pressure within the system. air pockets occur when you refill the system with coolant/water. pouring water/coolant back into the radiator traps air that can circulate throughout the system and you must ensure that these air pockets escape out the radiator, or you risk damaging the engine from excessive heating.
have you try to change oil? some times engine heat does' not just come from malfunctioning of the cooling system . But sometimes its the oil that runs to the engine . if the engine oil is dirty already it could also cause the engine to over heat. do to change the engine oil of your Acura Legend.
Have you tried running car from cold, with rad cap off, & heater turned on, coolant topped up, an inch or 2 from top of rad? Let it run up to operating temperature, cooling fans kick in & out 2 or 3 times, and top up coolant as needed, then put rad cap back on, & fill return bottle up to mark. There may be a worse problem, but bleeding system as I have described, ensures all air out of heater core & cooling system, which has been cause many times before on all makes & models of vehicles. Especially when no heat situation. Let me know if it helps.
Run engine from cool, with rad cap off & heater on heat (not AC) and watch for circulation through rad when engine reaches normal operating temperature. Rev engine slightly from time to time for a couple of seconds, to increase flow & help bleed air out of system. Let it run for a while, and watch for increased flow in rad 2 or 3 times. Probably see air bubbles at same time.Hot coolant from engine comes in top, and back out bottom to engine after cooling in rad. The increased flow in rad ,indicates thermostat is opening & circulating cooler liquid back into engine. After 2 or 3 times put cap back on & fill return bottle only to line specified as warm/hot engine level.