03 silverado turn the key to start but starter will not engage
I have replaced the starter relay and the ign. switch but when you turn the key on everything comes on like it should but the starter will not engage i have opened the door and cloed it and the truck would then start
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Re: 03 silverado turn the key to start but starter will...
Interesting problem, on the starter is a "trigger" wire that originates from the ignition (may run to the power distribution center). When the truck is started 12 volts runs down that wire and activates the solinoid on the starter. Put a 12 volt test light on the trigger wire by the starter, have someone hit the key to start, test light should come on, if not chase wire back and look for a break in the wire or replace trigger wire.
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From the ignition switch there is a yellow wire that is for the starter. probe it when trying to start. If you have no voltage replace the switch. Also, I believe there is a fusible link in the wire by the starter. It will be a different color than purple. Probe on the back side of it to see if there is voltage at start up. If so, replace with the smae color link.
I think the purple wire (or maybe the yellow) from the neutral safety switch goes to the coil side of the starter relay, turning it on so power is sent from there to the starter solenoid. You could check for this signal to the relay with a test light. The key must be held in start while you probe the other two terminals for the relay. If the signal is there, either a bad relay or the coil side of relay is not grounded properly. It is possible that the coil side ground is the neutral safety switch-grounding the relay's coil side only in park or neutral-in which case the nagging light on shifter (between off and run, it only works?) may be telling you the safety switch is the problem.
You may need to look at a wiring diagram, Greg. But the starter relay is the last component in the start circuit before the starter solenoid. From battery to ignition switch to "crank" fuse to neutral safety switch to starter relay to starter solenoid to starter-and back to battery through ground. That is the start circuit. Just that the wiring tying them all together makes it complicated.
assuming battery fully charged hook test lite between good groud and small starter terminal have somebody to crank if lits chek power and ground to starter and replace starter if no lit go to starter relay terminal 30 and 87 use a piece off wire and momentarily bridge them if starter bumps the engine check terminals 85 86 one is power when cranking the other is ground if starter bumps and test lit hooked to 85 86 lits replace relay if no lite keep tracing ckt to ignition switch
If I understand you right, the problem is the engine will not crank, that is turn over when you turn they ignition key to START. Having said that, might it be that the issue is with the starter system. The starter system is initiated at the ignition switch when the key is turned to start. At this point, the ignition switch then provides +12VDC to a starter relay (if the vehicle has got one) or direct to the starting solenoid. The relay is but a remote switch with slightly higher amperage capacity. The starter relay then engages and supplies +12VDC to the staring solenoid. The starting solenoid then performs two (2) functions. It provides the switching action (hundreds amps) from the battery heavy cable to the actual starter motor. The solenoid likewise pushes a small pinion gear along the shaft of the starter motor to engage the ring gear. The ring gear is of course on the edge of the flywheel which in turn is attached to the crankshaft.
Starter system problems could be corrected by: 1. check battery, battery cables and connections; 2. charge the battery if required; 3. clean brushes and guides of brush holders of the starter motor; 4. clean the commutator and commutator segments; 5. check/replace the armature or field coils if determined to be defective; 6. in some extreme cases it could be the drive pinion or the flywheel gear ring is defective. 7. often it is the big switch that the solenoid activates that looses contacts causing no +12V internally to the motor. 8. Most likely would be a defective starter relay or the IGN switch itself. Relative to this, you might try and check the connectors/terminals and electrical joints.
In the picture below, the upper portion is the starter solenoid while the one below it is the actual starter.
Given the amount of work to overhaul a starter, you might consider just replacing it.
So recommended course of action is determine if there is +12VDC at the starter solenoid when IGN switch is turned to START.
Check ALL FUSES!!!!!!!! Believe it or not I workd on a Buick Century mid 90's model and a fuse marked for injectors was bad and car would not turn over from ign switch. This also caused a no charging problem at the same time cause ign switch sent no signal to alternator to charge.
2 problems, first you have bad starter or starter relay for starter staying engaged, keep alt plugged in has nothing to do with starter staying engauged, to test starter relay, jump at relay bat + post with red/bk wire on solonoid, if cranks over without staying engaged, then not relay or starter but rather in your ign switch, ford had bad problems with ign switch some years ago doing that
Check gear selector neutral switch is ok,
Check/replace any slave 'start' relay (if fitted) and its associated fuse,
Check 'start' switched +12V output from Ignition switch is OK,
Check for any loose/poor connections in the electrical circuit between Ign Sw 'Start' output and the starter motor engage/operate solenoid.