When replacing rear pads on a 2005 Freestyle will i need to do any brake bleeding? I remember once i changed brakes on a honda i nearly had an accident when i pressed my brakes they went to the floor. Someone told me i forgot to bleed them. will i need to do this for the freestyle? And how can i prevent getting air in brake line? Thx
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You will need to bleed the brake system. I would start with the rear brakes lines and work towards the front.You must have key off engine off when bleeding brakes, apply pressure on brake pedal 10 times and hold. The brake line is now ready to be open. Open and let the stream of fluid come out and close the line tight. Then release brake pedal once bleeder screw is close. This procedure must be repeated twice front and back. After, brakes have been bleed pump the brake pedal before putting in drive. Note: Don't let the resevoir run low on brake fluid. This will cause air bubbles to accumulate on the brake system. Always top off before opening bleeder screw.
Clockwise-on the rear
I would open the bleeder valve first, push piston in,then screw parking brake in.
You need to flush your brakes every couple years,anyway.
After you install new pads,ratchet brake up by hand.
Jack up one of your rear wheel and look for the brake fluid bleeder valve. Loosen it up, until the brake fluid drips. Have someone at the driver seat, and start pumping the brake pedal. Look at the bleeder valve, until the fluid coming out is solid and close it fast and tight. Repeat this procedure at the other wheel. Then, you are done. E-mail us for your comments.
pedal gets hard when turned of because they are power brakes plus theres no vaccum try bleeding the brakes if theres still a problem check the master cylinder and fluid level when brakes wear down they require more fluid but try first bleeding remember start at pass rear driver rear and pass front and last driver front
I just did mine today, and did not have this problem. I screwed the caliper back in (right side CCW, left side CW) using the autozone loaner tool. No problem once I figured out they were opposite. Did not touch the e-brake at all. They self adjusted as designed and everything works. You need to un-do the adjustment you made if you were able to reassemble.
Most Fords I've worked on have a screw-in rear caliper design. Look at the caliper piston - do you see two notches on the face, across from each other? Those are the keyholes for screwing the piston back in. AutoZone rents/loans the piston retractor tool (leave them the full value of the kit, about $40, take it home and use it, then return it and get 100% of your money back). Simply fit the proper sized key disc onto the tool and screw it back into the caliper, and you're done.