Problem: Heater blows cold air.
Changed the water pump due to bad bearing on the main seal.
At the same time changed the thermostat because the vehicle has 162k and figured it should be replaced. 195 degree thermostat.
Checked coolant flow through the radiator, upper and lower radiator hoses, and hoses to and from the heater core.
Inlet hoses were warm during vehicle operation and return hoses were relatively cool.
Coolant seems to be running freely and the analog temperature gauge stays at around 145 degrees during operation in the wintertime. Outside temp has been around 30 degrees farenheit.
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I assume that you have the proper mixture and levels of coolant in your radiator and plastic overflow tank. Open your radiator cap (when the engine is cold) to make sure this is the case. If not, fill as directed by your owners manual.
If the cooling system's thermostat is bad, the hot coolant coming from your engine can not circulate to the radiator in front of the car to dissipate this heat and return to the engine colder.
The odd part you describe is that cold air blows out of the heater. If your car is overheating, you should have above average heat, since your car is running hot.
A bad water pump may also prevent coolant from circulating correctly. Usually, a bad pump will show up as a puddle of coolant underneath your car-since the bearing or seals usually wear out on the pump. However, I've seen where the internal blades or impellers of the pump have worn out due to deposits in the coolant due to infrequent replacement.
Hope this helps!
Have you bled all the air out of the system? Assuming you have, I'm thinking you've still got a major blockage or more likely, because there's no pressure, you've got a bad water pump. The impeller can corrode or fail without actually leaking. There is also a shut off valve on the heater hose which may account for the lack of heat but not for the lack of pressure. I'd start with that and continue on. Please let me know how this worked and if I can help more if the problem persists. Thanks and good luck!
The rear vent system has a separate heater core/blower system. heater core could be plugged up or the coolant lines going to rear heater core are plugged. could also be low coolant/faulty water pump not producing enough pressure, or air in the cooling system which will need to be bled if so.
a bad heater core will just leak. it could leak alot. do you ever smell antifreeze? check the coolant level. it can get pretty low before it will overheat. the thermostat should be ok but there could be corrosion. when you had the water pump replaced was the cooling system flushed? 2001, its probably due for a flush. what coolant does it take? (green or orange)
The problem that has caused this cold air only issue is the Air Temerture Control Blend Door Actuator Motor, this motor is on the ouside of the air duct about center of the dash, in order to access and replace it u must remove the entire dash assembly. this is about a 12-15 hour job.
There is a valve located on one of the heater hoses that when you select heat moves to allow heated water to flow through the heater core. Yours is probably just stuck, with heat selected on the dash try to move valve by hand.
water pumps are famous at around 80 thousand km I see these give up and quit pumping internally!also the thermostat you changed is it a MOPAR from dealer with a seal with a locking tab and ball bearing on top center these after market ones are just not the way to go! 22 years exp!! with mopar these after market ones just don't seem to bleed air out efficiently enough! you should see your coolant moving around if your pump is working and if you have a air lock due to a replica thermostat good luck bleeding the air out of your cooling system,.QUESTION to you have you any automotive experience as this???[problem you have.