Funny im waiting for mine to cool so i can try, start with cold car open cover on radiator filler turn heater on full watch but not too close for bubbling action at filler refill as needed might have to do twice from what ive read good luck to us
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Have you checked for any air locked in system?If any air is trapped in system you will not get heat through.Bleed it or open rad cap when is cold and put a container under neath to catch over flow.Start car, turn on heater fan to full,and set temp. to Maximum.After car warms up watch for bubbles coming out from the radiator cap opening.
There is an air bleed on the top of the water pump outlet and another on the thermostat housing/upper rad hose neck. With the rad cap open and these screws loose, fill the cooling system until water comes out, then close the screws. Do not over tighten them.
your air damper or diverter may not be working.this is basically a mechanism that opens a flap by your heater core to control the amount of hot air that comes out.There is a rod that this flapper pivots on and if this rod is broken or the motor that operates it is not working you will either have heat all the time or no heat at all depending on which position it broke at.I know because my torrent has the same problem.To fix my problem they have to remove the dashboard to access the heater core which amounts to major $$$. I hope your problem is an easier fix. good luck
you forgot to bleed the heater,,, it has an air lock in it,,,fined the top hose with the bleeder velve in it and bleed the air out the system by topping up the rad and open the bleed velve
dont do this with a hot engine??? it hurts!!!
THERMOSTAT IS LOCATED ON ENGINE FRONT TIMING COVER ON A 4.7L ENGINE..FOLLOW LOWER RAD HOSE FROM RAD,YOU WILL SEE A PLASTIC HOUSING WITH 2 BOLTS IN IT..THERMOSTAT IS LOCATED HERE..TIIMING COVER..TRY TO GET AN OE THERMOSTAT..MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE BLEED PLUG AT ENGINE SIDE OF UPPER RAD HOSE WHILE REFILLING COOLING SYSTEM..MAKE SURE ALL HOSES GET HOT AND LOTS OF HEAT FROM HEATER..REINSTALL BLEED PLUG WHEN COOLANT STARTS COMING OUT OF IT..LET ME KNOW HOW YOU FAIR OFF
Flush rad & change coolant & thermostat. Check operation of rad fan, & make sure it is coming on when engine reaches normal operating temperature. Be sure to bleed air out good when refilling rad/cooling system. Start engine & turn heater on when refilling & let rad fan come on & off at least 2 or 3 times before putting cap back on rad, and refill rad as needed as you do this. then fill return bottle to proper level & see what happens.
Pretty common on those. I used CLR and disconnected my heater hoses & with a small pump, I ran CLR only, through the heater core, and let it sit in there overnight, flushed it through again next day, back flush as well. re-connect hoses, run engine with heater on, and rad cap off until the rad fan comes on 2 or 3 times, then put cap back on, to bleed air out of system. Cleaned it out enough to get the heat flowing again. If you changed thermostat and didn't let it run with heat on, and rad cap off for a while as described above, then do that first, just to make sure you haven't just got an air lock in the system.
all mazda 929 have this problem when the coolant level is dropped the heater core has no fluid in it since it ts off of the engine block . hence it cannot recive any coolant to heat the car. the best way to fix this is bleed the system of air . when filling coolant squezze the return hose with the cap on the rad it will force fluid bact to the core and push the air out once you do this a few times you will see the rad fluid droped fill it up and run the car . this should solve this problem