Gear doesn't engage

a plastic master cyl !

master cyl is bypassing internally

slave cylinder is inside the gearbox bell housing
if its leaking .....gearbox out

I am assuming this is a manual shift. Have you checked the fluid level in trans? Tried draining and replacing fluid? Checked clutch adjustment?

Is the pedal soft ?

Check transmission fluid level Hot in D. Over full will cause frothing and loss of pressure in the system. Have a transmission pressure test done . It may need a band and clutch pack adjustment.

Check your clutch master cylinder's fluid,if real low or empty,go to transmission and check slave cylinder for leaks,it may be bolted to side with hydraulic line connected to it.

If your clutch pedal doesn't quite have the pressure it used to, or your clutch fluid just looks old and dirty, it may be time to bleed and/or replace the clutch fluid.
Items needed:

8mm open or box end wrench
Clear tube (1/4" ID)
One bottle DOT3/DOT4 brake fluid (doesn't have to be full)
A friend to press the clutch pedal for you

Locate the bleeder valve on the clutch slave cylinder.

Use your 8mm wrench to open the valve one full turn, don't remove it.

Stick your hose over the bleeder valve and have it drop off into a container.
Be sure to check the clutch fluid level before bleeding the system, you don't want to let it get below the MIN line.

Have your friend pump the clutch pedal to start removing the fluid. Don't be con if they tell you the pedal went down to floor and won't come back up on it's own, that's normal. They'll just have to wedge it back up with their foot.

NOTE: When bleeding the system, make sure the cap is ON or you will just be sucking in air

Refill the clutch fluid as necessary to keep it above the MIN line. Since the clutch fluid reservoir is very small you'll have to keep a close eye on it.
I just had some extra ATE brake fluid left over from my brake fluid change so I decided to just use it since it is a DOT3/DOT4 fluid. But high performance fluids are not necessary for the clutch fluid so you can just use regular cheap DOT3 or DOT4 fluid and it won't make a difference.

When you see the fluid in the hose change completely from the old color to the new color then you know the system has been flushed and is now full of new clutch fluid. Have your friend do one l press of the clutch pedal and tighten the bleeder valve once the pedal hits the floor. Since you can't use a torque wrench on the bleeder valve, it's important to note it does not need to be very tight so don't try overtightening it and just snug it up with your wrench.

Pump the clutch pedal again and the pressure should return. And that's all, you're finished.

this video tutorial can help you.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-XhFxlkzFI&feature=player_detailpage

the level of fluid may be ok but it may need new fluid , when was last changed ? i'd change fluid as a first step

there is a total of 27 diagnostic steps to follow, but here is some info for you:
SYMPTOM
P1740-TCC O/D SOL PERFORMANCE

WHEN MONITORED
The Torque Convertor Clutch (TCC) and Overdrive Clutch (O/D) will be tested each time the PCM requests TCC engagement in 3rd gear and O/D.

SET CONDITION
The code will set if the expected RPM drop is not achieved while attempting to engage TCC or O/D. This indicates a malfunctioning torque convertor or overdrive clutch.

POSSIBLE CAUSES
- Camshaft DTC present
- Engine RPM DTC present
- Fuel level low
- Misfire DTC present
- Output speed DTC present
- P1765 DTC present
- Park/Neutral DTC present
- PTO engaged (if equipped)
- Torque converter clutch DTC present
- TPS DTC present
- Transfer case in low range (if equipped)
- Transmission Relay DTC present
- Transmission temperature too cold
- Intermittent
- Check transmission fluid-debris
- Check transmission fluid-stall
- 3-4 Shift Solenoid
- Oil Pan contains excessive debris
- Shaft or seal damage
- TCC solenoid
- Torque converter
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what you mean is the clutch is not disengaging the transmission from the engine, so you can shift it.

This is always due to air trapeed in the clutch system. It is very hard to purge the air.

You may have to have a shop use their evac/fill equipment, if they have it.

Try raising the front of the truck as high as you can, including facing uphill. The air is likely trapped at the slave cylinder, not at the clutch.

There is a video on you tube showing a guy purging air from a Ranger. See if you can view it.

1) The Hydraulic system should be bled to remove all the air whenever air enters the system. This occurs if the fluid level has been allowed to fall so low that air has been drawn into the clutch master cylinder. Under normal circumstances, air should not enter the system when the quick disconnect hydraulic line fittings have been disconnected. The procedure is very similar to bleeding a brake system, but depends mainly on gravity, rather than the pumping action of the pedal, for the bleeding effect.

2) Fill the master cylinder to the top with new brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 or DOT 4 specifications. Caution: Do not re-use any of the fluid coming from the system during the bleeding operation and don't use fluid from which has been inside an open container for an extended period of time.

3) Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jack stands or drive it securely up on ramps (whichever method you chose) to gain access to the bleeder valve, which is located on the top left side of the bellhousing (See Illustration 1-1 below). Try to keep the truck as level as possible. Caution: Don't forget to chock the rear wheels and set parking brake for extra safety...

4) Remove the dust cap which fits over the bleeder valve and push a length of clear plastic hose over the valve. Place the other end of the hose into a clear container.

5) Open the bleeder valve. Fluid will run from the clutch master cylinder, down the hydraulic line, into the release cylinder (the Slave Cylinder) and out through the clear plastic tube. Let the fluid run out until it is free of bubbles.
Note: Don't let the fluid level drop too low in the clutch master cylinder, or air will be drawn into the hydraulic line and the whole process will have to be started over.

6) Close the bleeder valve.

7) Open the bleeder valve and have an assistant slowly depress the clutch pedal allowing fluid to flow through the clear plastic hose. When the clutch pedal is almost to the floor, close the bleeder valve and have the assistant release the pedal.

8) Slowly press the pedal five times, waiting two (2) seconds each time the pedal is released. When releasing the pedal on this step, release it fast. This tends to help **** fluid down the stream and aid in faster bubble reduction.

9) Fill the fluid reservoir to the top.

10) The clutch should now be completely bled. If it isn't, (indicated by failure to disengage completely, and a soft or no pedal), repeat steps 5 through 9.

11) Continue this process until all air is evacuated from the system, indicated by a solid stream of fluid being ejected from the bleeder valve each time with no air bubbles in the hose or container.

12) Install the dust cap and lower the vehicle. Check carefully for proper operation before placing vehicle in normal service. Check the fluid level.

Note: If you can NOT get fluid out of the bleeder screw, then the internal check valve in your clutch master cylinder may be stuck, or you haven't bleed the system for at least 30 minutes. You will either have to use a different bleed technique, or replace the clutch master cylinder. Bleeding a Ranger clutch system takes time and patience. One small mistake / loss of patience / or shortcut, and you'll have to start all over.

this sounds like the clutch slave is goin out, this unit is on the outside of the transmission. Possibly losing pressure!! Your transmission does not use transmission fluid, but instead gear oil. Have the following checked:
1. Clutch Slave (possibly worn)-this will cause soft or hard clutch pedal feel, slipping clutch, unintended clutch release, hard gear engagement, no/insufficient clutch movement.

*2. Clutch pedal Mounting Plate (possibly cracked)-this will cause improper gear engagement, hard gear engagement, soft pedal feel, insufficient clutch movement.

*this plate is located above the clutch pedal itself, apply pressure on the pedal with one hand while inspecting the plate for fatigue cracks(use a bright flashlight). This is very common on these models. This problem will eventually get worst and most mechanics never figure this out.

more questions email me at [email protected]!!