When the weather is cold brake pedal does not depress...
It is several minutes before I have any brakes. I can push as hard as I can but it's as if the pedal is froze up for the first 2-3 minutes during cold weather. However, when I first get in the car the pedal is ok; it's only after I begin to drive that this happens.
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Have you ever had the brake system flushed? Brake fluid like any other fluid can become contaminated and needs to be changed. When the weather gets cold the fluid can gel slightly and cause the problem you are having with the brakes.
Man, you've spent some money without isolating the problem. Throwing parts at a problem is never a way forward. The brakes not working when its cold? When you pump the brakes does the pedal become hard/normal in cold weather or at any time? What happens if you plug the booster hose and start up, is the pedal hard instantly? You say there is engine oil in the booster? how much? What mileage has it done and is the engine in good condition ie serviced? I know this sounds silly but you haven't really got to what the dealer is supposed to have done for your money. I find it difficult to believe there is no experienced tech who couldn't work this out. He should do things like clamp off the flexi lines to each wheel in turn and then in pairs then all together etc with proper brake hose clamps to see if that makes a difference. He should be leaving it out in the cold and seeing for himself what happens.
Did the shop go through this sort of process? Careful checks and process of elimination is what gets to the bottom of these faults.
Functional test: 1. With the engine stopped, Depress the brake pedal several times, then depress the pedal hard and hold that pressure for 15 seconds. If the pedal sinks, the master cylinder, brake line or a brake caliper is faulty 2. Start the engine with the pedal depressed. If the pedal sinks slightly, the vacuum booster is working. If the pedal height does not vary, the booster or the check valve is faulty
Leak Test: 1. Depress the brake pedal with the engine running then stop the engine. If the pedal height does not vary while depressed for 30 seconds, the vacuum booster is OK. If the pedal rises, the booster is faulty 2. With the engine stopped, depress the brake pedal several times using normal pressure. When the pedal is first depressed, it should be low. On consecutive applications, the pedal height should gradually rise. If the pedal position does not vary, check the booster check valve.
Check valve test: 1. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose at the booster. 2. Start the engine and let it idle. There should be a vacuum available. If no vacuum is available, the check valve is not working correctly. Replace the check valve and retest.
Hello rickyjkoch: My name is Roger and I will help with your question. With the engine off, press the brake pedal down several times. Hold the pedal down and start the engine. The brake pedal should drop 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 inches toward the floor. If the pedal stays up and does not drop the booster has a problem. However if you hear a hissing sound from the dash area of the brake pedal the booster should be replaced. Should you need further help please just ask. Please rate the answer. Thank You for using Fix Ya. Roger
nope you have to replace them.when brake booster diaphram leaks you cant plug them.i have bought one at salvage yard in good shape.until i got a new one.get your brake booster from inside salvage yard where they stock them inside out the weather.dont take any brake booster off old outside cars been in all kinds bad weather. there vacuum diaphram probably dried up will leak also.
Brake switch or the relay stuck closed try to tap the brake pedal several times quickly disconnect the connector at the brake switch ( it should be towards the top of the brake pedal, and reconnect it. and try the brake again most likely it is this switch that is bad