Question about 1965 Ford Mustang

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Rocker arm and pushrod have a gap of about a quarter inch, noisy,

Stored 1965 Mustang which I start from time to time. Suddenly loud noise from valve train. Traced it down to pushrod and rocker arm now have a large gap and is loose. Though it might be a bad lifter so I pulled the intake manifold and cleaned the lifter. It was sticky. Still the same problem. The valve spring seems to be O.K. My thoughts are somehow the pushrod got shorter,(not likely) or the rocker stud has come out a little. I did notice that stud is about a quarter inch higher than the rest. Are they pressed in and how do you replace one?
Any ideas would be appreciated.

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  • Master
  • 1,118 Answers

You might want to try tapping it back in, but only if you got a brass drift as that will not mare the stud or threads. back in the day i would drill and pin each one to keep them from pulling out. as this was a commen problem with early ford and chevy high R.P.M. engines. that went away when someone invented the screw in stud. but you can drill and pin each one with out pulling off the heads it can be a chore but its a cheep fix compaired to the alternative. also did you replace the lifters? i ask this because if one was stuck maybe the rest will stick too. i am a chevy person, but i am a little parcel to fords as thats what i had in the day a 1967 fastback 289 4 speed. hope this helps.

Posted on Jan 08, 2009

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  • Ford Master
  • 6,982 Answers

If one stud is higher than the others it likely has pulled out. Yes, they are pressed in. But, you can put a nut on the top of the stud and run it down 'till it is flush with the top (to protect the threads) and smack it back in place (carefully) with a hammer. There is a reason why it backed out though and it will do it again. To prevent this, you can drill a very small hole through the stud tower and the stud itself, and install a small roll pin. This is an old race car trick from before they came out with screw in studs!!! You could also pull it the rest of the way out, drill & tap the bore & install a screw in stud but it's not really necessary with a stock engine with no big cam. Either way, make sure you catch all filings with a magnet. you don't want them inside the engine!
good luck

Posted on Jan 08, 2009

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Tapping noise


rocker arms need adjusted gap is too wide . the increased rpms make it noisy. stp would muffle it but it needs the gap set cause if you really rev it hard something up top can let go from the slapping of the rocker arms on top of your valves

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How to install rocker arms on a Pontiac grand am 2001 V-6


Hi there:

Rocker Arms & Pushrods


Removal & Installation

3.1L & 3.4L Engines
Left Side

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.
  2. Drain the cooling system to a level below the coolant pipe on the front of the engine.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    NOTEKeep the pushrods in order. Intake pushrods are 5 3 / 4 inches long and exhaust pushrods are 6 inches long.


    Negative battery cableSpark plug wiresHeater bypass pipePositive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve and hoseRocker arm cover


    Rocker arms and pushrods

To install:

  1. Lubricate all the valvetrain components with engine oil.
  2. Install or connect the following:

    Pushrods and the rocker arms. Torque the bolts to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).Rocker arm cover using a new gasket. Torque the rocker cover bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).PCV valve and hoseHeater bypass pipe. Torque the screw at the water pump to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm), the bolt at the cylinder head corner to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) and the nut to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).Spark plug wiresNegative battery cable
  3. Refill the cooling system.
  4. Start the vehicle and verify no leaks.




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Right Side
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    NOTEKeep the pushrods in order. Intake pushrods are 5 3 / 4 inches long and exhaust pushrods are 6 inches long.


    Negative battery cableAlternator bracket on 2005 modelsSpark plug wires from the spark plugs and the upper intake plenum wire retainerPower brake booster vacuum pipe from the intake plenumAccessory drive beltAlternator, if necessaryIgnition coil assembly and Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) canister purge solenoid as an assemblyRocker arm cover


    Rocker arms and pushrods

To install:

  1. Lubricate all the valvetrain components with engine oil.
  2. Install or connect the following:

    Pushrods and the rocker arms. Torque the bolts to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) plus an additional 30 degree turn.Rocker arm cover using a new gasket. Torque the rocker cover bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).Ignition coil and EVAP solenoid assemblyAlternator, if removed. Torque the bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).Accessory drive beltPower brake booster vacuum pipe to the plenumSpark plug wiresNegative battery cable
  3. Start the vehicle and verify no leaks.





Hope this helps.

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Well we tried adjusting the valves and then it will start and make a werid noise and then will be about to shut off and it doesnt sound right plezz can you help me? its a 1997 gmc 5.7 1500


With the Engine in the number 1 firing position, adjust the exhaust valves for cylinders number 1, 3, 4, and 8 and the intake valves for cylinders number 1, 2, 5, and 7.
Turn the valve rocker arm nut counter clockwise until the valve lash is felt in the valve pushrod.
Turn the rocker arm nut clockwise until all of the valve lash is removed (zero valve lash).
Zero valve lash can be felt by moving the valve pushrod up and down between your thumb and forefinger until there is no more up and down movement of the valve pushrod.
When all the valve lash is removed, then turn the valve rocker arm nut clockwise 1 additional turn (360 degrees).


With the engine in the number 6 firing position, adjust the exhaust valves for cylinders number 2, 5, 6, and 7 and the intake valves for cylinders number 3, 4, 6, and 8.

Follow the same steps as above.

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How do i find out how long to make my pushrod on aluminum heads i have a agustable pushrod i got from summit raceing i have a 302 ford with roller rockers


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Hi,i noticed some of the tappets on our 70-289z were quite loose as if they wouldnt be giving much push on the valve while others seemed to tight almost holding the valve open,how do i ensure they are all...


funny somebody asked this question last night. here is the adjusting procedure:

This procedure for the 289 and early 302 V8 engines is designed for engines in which the rocker arm mounting studs do not incorporate a positive stop shoulder on the mounting stud. These engines were originally equipped with this kind of stud. However, due to production differences, it is possible some 289 or early 302 engines may be encountered that are equipped with positive stop rocker arm mounting studs. Before following this procedure, verify that the rocker arm mounting studs do not incorporate a positive stop shoulder. On studs without a positive stop, the shank portion of the stud that is exposed just above the cylinder head is the same diameter as the threaded portion, at the top of the stud is of greater diameter than the threaded portion, this identifies it as a positive stop rocker arm stud and the procedure for the 351 engine should be followed.
  1. Crank the engine until No. 1 cylinder is at TDC of the compression stroke and the timing pointer is aligned with the mark on the crankshaft damper.
  2. Scribe a mark on the damper at this point.
  3. Scribe three more marks on the damper, dividing the damper into quarters (see illustration).
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I assume you have hydraulic lifters. If not, please get back to me. We used to do this with the covers off and the engine running, but that was messy. Here is procedure from autozone.com:

This procedure for the 289 and early 302 V8 engines is designed for engines in which the rocker arm mounting studs do not incorporate a positive stop shoulder on the mounting stud. These engines were originally equipped with this kind of stud. However, due to production differences, it is possible some 289 or early 302 engines may be encountered that are equipped with positive stop rocker arm mounting studs. Before following this procedure, verify that the rocker arm mounting studs do not incorporate a positive stop shoulder. On studs without a positive stop, the shank portion of the stud that is exposed just above the cylinder head is the same diameter as the threaded portion, at the top of the stud is of greater diameter than the threaded portion, this identifies it as a positive stop rocker arm stud and the procedure for the 351 engine should be followed.
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