How much to repair this and what parts to replace?
Tried a previous post but answers got a little misguided... Being female I am leery of dishonest mechanics - (I was once told I needed a $750 ring job for a car that was burning oil only to have a more honest shop tell me it was a leaky valve/gasket that would cost $14 to replace.) Since the car is undriveable, I can't get estimates at various places, but would still like to know a ballpark of what I'm dealing with... The steering froze while driving, and then the front passenger wheel fell off while the tow driver was attempting to hook up. It is a manual transmission 1995 civic ex coupe.
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I found this answer on Fixya from a previous post:
Brake lights and cruise control are not set properly.
Easy check - are your brake lights coming on with just the usual light touch of the pedal? If not, then the microswitch that senses that your foot is on the brake needs to be adjusted or replaced.
Under dash on passenger side is Blower Motor Resistor "wire harness plug" which is shorting. it's loose or was previously arcing and burnt up a little from heat. You can reshape the female pins to make the needle pins insert more tight. Or you should replace the Blower Motor Resistor harness if it's too far gone. ( it clips apart, usually a white plug just underneath glove box location. Sometimes is damaged by passengers feet. Your speed 1 thru 3 is resisted. Fan speed # 4 is max voltage and does not use the Resistor. I assume the resistor is shot ( located inside the clip coming from blower motor) or else there is a short on 1 of the wires female to male pins.
I saw a posting on another site about the PCV valve elbow where it goes into the intake manifold. The elbow is smooth rubber and collapses causing vacuum problems. Sure enough mine was totally collapsed. The part was only 25.00 at the Ford Dealership and I had it put on. It actually seemed better for a while. I thought that would be the end of it. But about 1 week after the codes reappeared and the same symptoms as well. All this time since it started back 5 months ago I've had horrible gas mileage. I wish there was a way to check the whole vacuum system for problems because that is where seems to still be after reading tons of postings. I'm not sure if it is in the intake manifold gasket itself or some vacuum line. I'm frustrated and very leery of replacing 02 sensors because it seems unlikely that they are both bad at the same time. I also notice that when the car a going down the road I can feel it speed up a little and come back down. It sure seems to be an air/fuel mixture problem. Anybody have and feedback. thanks in advance
remove the actuator . then study the position of the female part of the actuator that actually turns the door shaft. study it enough ,so you know where the actuator really should be when it holds the door shaft in the middle position. then carefully open the actuator itself with the female part facing down. this keeps all the gears in the places they belong. (IMPORTANT) Then without turning any gears or shafts, remove the gear that drives the female part. The gear to remove is about 1 inch in diameter.It has a smaller gear below it that is part of it. Do not remove the female part. with this 1 inch gear removed, the female part can now be turned to the proper position.Again do not remove the female part. Just turn it to the center of its travel space. After putting the gear back in and snapping the assembly together, the actuator can be turned upside down with the female part facing up. Move the door shaft to the center of travel and reinstall the actuator. Hope this helps.
I had a problem with my 95 Dakota with the headlights(they would go out intermittently,REAL fun on a pitch black stretch of road!).I found that wiggling the knob made them come back on.I bought a new switch,but when I went to replace it,I found one of the connector terminals was loose,and it melted the connector body.Since the switch had common sized male quick-disconnect type terminals,I just drilled out the body and used a female quick disconnect to repair it(you won't see it after putting the dash back together anyway).Check the connector,do a "drag test on the connector pins if you can't see anything obvious(use a male terminal pin to see if any female connector terminals feel loose).
Yea. Audi is a great car. However, with 234,000 miles on the engine and transmission I would be a little leery. That's a whole lot of wear and tear no matter how well it was taken care of. If it were me, with that many mile and no previous rebuilds, I might just find something with less miles on it.
I am very sorry to hear you are having this issue. The problem is that you have a plugged or partially plugged catalytic converter. The Catalytic converter is located in the exhaust system generally just after the exhaust leaves the engine. The converter is full of little balls made of palladium, titanium, and other medals. If uses these metals to hold some heat in the exhaust system and help burn off excess hydrocarbons. IT is a federally required emissions part so removing it is against the law. I would suggest that you go to a reputable exhaust dealer like Midas, or Car X and have them test the converter and replace it. This is a expensive repair, priced at Napa the original replacements are $460.00 each X 2. So it would be wise to have a muffler shop diagnose which one is the issue.
Yeah..the O2 sesor is made by DELPHI. Call the GM parts counter guy at your local dealership ....they want to sell parts and usually cough up the answers you need so you buy the part from the dealer...then just go to advance or NAPA and get what you need for 1.3rd the price...I am not trying to be dishonest, just looking out for your wallet.