Question about 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe

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2002 hyundai santa fe 2.7 multi misfire number 2and 5 cylinders

New plugs wires and ignition coils but still doin the same

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  • ppprevost Jan 08, 2009

    yes

  • ppprevost Jan 08, 2009

    a;ready changed the plugs wires and the ignition coils but it still is misfiring don't know what else to do please help

  • O Mclean May 11, 2010

    What exactly is the problem with your vehicle

  • O Mclean May 11, 2010

    PLEASE STATE THE COMPLETE QUESTION WITH A:: PRIOR REPAIRS..

  • O Mclean May 11, 2010

    Are you the person with the misfire??

  • walt evans
    walt evans Dec 28, 2013

    red oil light flickering

  • Anonymous Mar 30, 2014

    remote control module located

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I RAN INTO THE SAME PROBLEM ON MY WIFES SANTA FE. STARTED WITH PLUGS WENT TO WIRES THEN CHECKED INJECTORS. THE WHOLE TIME IT WAS THE COIL PACK. REPLACE THAT AND ALL SHOULD BE GOOD.

Posted on Jan 24, 2013

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  • Master
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OK IS THERE IS ACTUALLY A mis-FIRE THIS VEHICLE SHOULD BE SHAKING DURING IDLE AND ACCELERATION IF IT IS, here is what you do get a noid light this used to check injector pulse. This vehicle will set a misfire code if injector is not functioning efficiently or bad. A noid light is like a test light bulb can be bought at almost any auto store.SART UP VEHICLE AND DISCONNECT THE INJECTOR WIRE TO THE CYLINDER THAT'S mis-FIRING AND CONNECT noid LIKE TO ELECTRICAL PLUG. DO THIS ONE CYLINDER AT A TIME. The nod light should have a steady flickering light/consistent pattern of flickering. If there is Gap/irratic flickering or no flickering BINGO you have found your problem. NO FLICKERING= bad/broken injector wire if not broken BAD COMPUTER/ECU. IF THE FLICKERING IS CONSISTENT /GOOD = BAD INJECTOR..replace injector and solve the misfire problem. However is all the components tested are ALL GOOD. Then the only other SOURCE for a mis-fire is the camshaft sensor that provides reference for injector pulse and the crankshaft sensor provide reference for Spark pulse. JUST ON A LAST NOTE: make sure all oils are getting electrical power to them. Good Luck I know this is alot of info at once. Contact me if you need more help. Thanks fr using FIX YA

Posted on Jan 08, 2009

  • O Mclean Jan 08, 2009

    Please excuse my typo's I was typing too fast. Here are corrections: OK IF THERE IS ........CONNECT noid LIGHT TO ELECTRICAL.....The noid light should have..... Make sure that all Coils

  • Chris Overbeck
    Chris Overbeck Jan 24, 2013

    IT WOULD NOT BE THE INJECTOR MISFIRING IF IT IS OVER A HUNDRED THOUSAND MILES REPLACE YOUR COIL PACK.

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2005 hyundai santa fe


This code refers to a misfire on cyl#5. Possible spark plug or ignition coil ( most common ). Could also be an injector or wiring to any of the above

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How to remove sprk pug on 2007 nitro


You don't say much about the problem, but here's a trick used for hard to get plugs.

Use a old plug wire plug boot to pull the plug out when it's loose and to re-install the plug. Many times you can get a plug loose but it's not easy to turn the tool, that's where the old wire boot comes in handy. push it on to the plug you can turn it more easy.

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Cylinder 3 misfire on 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe


sometimes the fuel injector can be out of range but this would give a trouble code.
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Mar 04, 2013 | 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe

1 Answer

SKIPPING PROBLEM . SPARK PLUGS & WIRES HAS BEEN DONE. THERE'S NO 12 VOLTS AT THE COIL CONNECTOR PLUG WITH THE KEY ON. LYMAN


Sound like a ground problem; the fastest way to identify the Power and Ground Circuits is using a wiring diagram. If you don't have one you'll have to find out by trial and error as you probe each circuit.

The power circuit is tested with the Key On and Engine Off. Place one end of your multimeter or Test Light on the Battery Negative Terminal and with the other end, probe the Power Circuit. Turn the Key to the Run position. If the Power Circuit is OK, the Multimeter will show 12 Volts or the Test Light will light up. Here are the possible results:
* You got 12 Volts on the Power Circuit
Good, this is a good sign. The next step is to check the Ground Circuit of the Coil on Plug connector that you're testing.

* No Power in only one Ignition Coil
Without 12 Volts, the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil will not work, thus you have just eliminated that specific Ignition Coil as the source of the fault. Replacing the Ignition Coil with a new one will only be a waste of time and money since, without Power the new one will not Spark.
Since the Power Circuit is shared by all of the coils on the majority of Coil-on-Plug Ignition Systems. The most likely cause will be an open short in that Ignition Coil's Power Circuit.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to make sure how everything is wired up.
After repairing the short, re-do the Spark Test to verify the Ignition Coil is now working.

* No Power at any Ignition Coils
The fuse or relay that supplies this voltage is blown or BAD.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to see where this fuse and/or relay is located and replace as necessary.
After replacing the blown fuse or the defective relay. Retest the Ignition Coil.

Them, the Ground Circuit is tested with the Key On or Off. It doesn't matter because this is a Chassis Ground. Place one end of your multimeter or Test Light on the Battery Positive Terminal and with the other end, probe the Ground Circuit. If the Ground Circuit is OK, the Multimeter will show 12 Volts or the Test Light will light up.

* You got Ground
Good, now the next step is to verify that the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil is receiving the Triggering Signal. This info belongs to the next section of this article.

* No Ground in only one Ignition Coil
Without this Ground, the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil will not work, thus you have just eliminated that specific Ignition Coil as the source of the fault. Replacing the Ignition Coil with a new one will only be a waste of time and money since, without Ground the new one will not Spark.
Since the Ground Circuit is shared by all of the coils on the majority of Coil-on-Plug Ignition Systems. The most likely cause will be an open short in that Ignition Coil's Ground Circuit.
You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to make sure how everything is wired up.
After repairing the short, re-do the Spark Test to verify the Ignition Coil is now working.

* No Ground at any Ignition Coils
This usually happens thru' human error in most cases and is a very rare thing. Usually the engine was replaced and this ground was not re-attached.
You can Ground this circuit with a jumper wire. Jumpering to Ground just one Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil should provide Ground to all of them (consult your Repair Manual's Wiring Diagrams to be sure).
With this jumper wire to Ground attached, crank the vehicle.
If in fact the Ground Circuit does have an open short, this (the jumper wire to Ground) should make the vehicle start, or at least get the Ignition Coil to Spark.
Repair the open short and retest for Spark or retry starting the vehicle.


Hope this helps. Keep us updated.

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    Fig. Ignition coil assembly mounting-3.0L DOHC engines


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