Question about 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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My blower resistor keeps going out, even after i buy a new one..

I just got a new blower resistor for my 2001 jeep grand cherokee limted 4,7 v8 duel control, and with two months the resistor is not working again, my question is why is this happening, and is it something i can fix myself?

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  • kingphiher11 Jan 08, 2009

    Richie i'm really greatful for your help, but i really dont fallow on this. Are you saying you think i need a stronger fuse in the fuse box. Richie i'm really a beginner in fixing car and know whats going on so you please go into more detail. Thank you.

  • kingphiher11 Jan 13, 2009

    Thanks Richie, will do...

  • kingphiher11 Jan 14, 2009

    Here's another one for you Richie, when i put on my breaks ( mostly at high speeds ) i get a shimy in the steering, it not real bad, but it's not comfortable, it feels like it in the front left wheel, like the wheel is wobbing, also if i make a tight slow turn to the left, i feel like a kuck kuck kuck, on the left front side. Could it be something like bearings?

  • kingphiher11 Jan 21, 2009

    Richie you are a wealth of knowledge, thank you for all your help and insight.

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I have a 2001 jeep grand cherokee at first it blew cold air on passenger side than the heat quit working all together.

Posted on Jan 15, 2009

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Hi,
As the circuit is through this resistor, and the main load is the blower motor, I think this is taking a higher current than normal to make it turn. You could simply fit a lower rating fuse to the circuit - as this is cheaper to replace, and check the fan to make sure it is easy to spin by hand. If not, try and oil the bearings as a last resort before replacing it.

Posted on Jan 08, 2009

  • Richard Perkins
    Richard Perkins Jan 08, 2009

    Hi,

    No I'm saying fitting a lower rated fuse will protect the circuit better than the one that's there. This won't solve the main problem - it will just save you money and you won't need to replace the resistor unit - just the fuse for a few pence.

    The underlying problem is still the fan motor, which needs investigating. Once you have access to it, try rotating it with your fingers to see if it's free. If not, take it out, oil bearings and see if it improves. If not - replace it.

  • Richard Perkins
    Richard Perkins Jan 14, 2009

    Hi,

    Could be two things going on here.



    Noise when turning hard - especially slowly - the kuk - kuk - kuk sound in time with wheel rotation is typical of CV joint wear.

    As most driveshafts contain an inner and outer one of these, you really need to jack up the vehicle, support with an axle stand (never work without one - or 2), and take the wheel off. With the drive in neutral, rotate the discbrake using the edge only (don't get oil or anything on the disc) as you do so, try to move the driveshaft up and down, left and right, then rotate the brake a bit - and try again. If one end moves excessively (more than a mm) than it should be replaced. Wheel end CV's can be bought separately, but inside ends usually require a replacement driveshaft. Second-hand are usually fine, but if both sides have gone, buy a pair from the same vehicle - or new. You don't want to do this job twice because of a duff one.

    The intermittent bind when braking may be due to oil contamination on the disc, worn discs, badly fitted discs , or as you say - worn wheel bearing.



    With the tyre on, but jacked up, grab wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock, and try to wobble it. Try again at 12 and 6 o'clock and try to wobble wheel again - this time lifting more. Any play at all is not acceptable. Sometimes they can be tightened a little, but usually disintegrate shortly after as the hardness on the bearings has worn away - Best fit new. Always fit axle pairs on bearings and brake parts - as you could be sent into a spin on hard braking if one side is different to the other.



    Check both sides for condition of bearings, driveshafts, brake discs and pads, and for any leaks. Also wishbone joint rubbers are a common fail point - so have a quick look there too. Very often it's easier to replace parts in one go rather than 3 attempts.

    I've just replaced my pads and discs - and noticed slack in driveshaft and lower wishbone joint - so they're next on my list!

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