Well for the overheating, I've tackled this problem a couple times already with moderate results. I flushed the radiator, replaced the thermostat, so far no luck on solid results. Now I got a crack on the top hose connection on the radiator and temporarily fixed with plasic epoxy. but I'd like a better, permanent, not so sad way of fixing that.
Now for the stalling issue. I have a bunch of possibilities as to why this is happening, and a lot of them I don't like. To start off, there's an issue with starting the beast, I have to give it a fair amount of gas to simply get started, and then somethime/most of the time, I'll lose RPMs and stall the car for a good min 3 minutes. Anyone with possible ideas as to what's going on there, I'll be happy to eplain anything in detail, including "Does it do this?" questions, whatever it takes.
Mine used to stall at lights and things, I pulled the Idle air control unit out and took it apart sprayed carb cleaner ($3.00) on it, put it back together and it stopped stalling and RPM malfunctions. Try that.
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Anna, thermostats don't fail all that often. If you are overheating after a new one, the problem most likely resides inside the radiator. Radiators can get plugged with gunk over time if they are not flushed at least occasionally. Have you tried that yet?
Does the overheating happen while the car is moving or only when at idle for a period of time?
Is the coolant less than two years old? If it is more, I recommend replacing it after doing a cooling system flush.
If you still experience overheating after that, I recommend having a good radiator shop give it a look.
the stuff describe most likely from the anti boil -anti freeze mixture that has become ineffective for not being changed regularly and not up to percentage to do the job. It allows the aluminium parts of the car to corrode and what you see is the end result . It will deposit in the cores of the radiator and block them up resulting in a replacement radiator . You can expect corroded aluminium parts from all areas of the motor.
Sounds like its overheating causing "vapor lock".. you are "boiling" the gas before it gets in or out of the carburetor.
Its time to remove both radiator hoses... and reverse flush the radiator and reverse flush the engine block.. MAKE SURE you install the thermostat in the correct direction.!!
Belts only drive the water pump and other accessories and do not cause overheating. Have a pressure test done on the cooling system. Have a compression test done to check for head gasket or cracked head. Have a flow test done to check for blocked cores in radiator .check external fins of radiator to see if they are flaking off. Flushing radiators doesn't work because once the cores are blocked up there is no way to un block them. If you have a viscous fan hub have it check out as they stop driving after a period of time.
Are your fans working? If they're not it will cause overheating while
stationary or in slow traffic. Overheating while driving points to the
radiator. Get some engine flush into the cooling system and run the car for a couple miles. Then let it cool down and remove all the water(Take both large hoses off the radiator). Then stick a hosepipe into the radiator and let the water run until clear. If this doesnt work remove the radiator and have it reconditioned/replaced. Removing the thermostat will not cause the engine to overheat. It just causes the engine to take longer to reach operating temp.
there are three probable causes that may result to overheating one inadequate circulation of coolant within the cooling system. The radiator is clogged with dirt some stems are closed.try to flush the radiator using rad flushing fluid. Second improper bleeding of trap air within the cooling system. Third the water pump blades are worn out inadequate circulation of coolant.
I think you need to do a cheap and extremely accurate test.Its called a tk head test and it determines wether you have head or head gasket problem.If you could eliminate that part as being the cause then that really only leaves a couple of things left to check.A blocked radiator or an air lock.Maybe a faulty radiator/expansion tank cap not able to maintain correct pressure